BIN ENDS WINE-TASTING GROUP
“Brands v. Independents
Tuesday, 23rd August 2011
At St. Augustine’s Church Hall

The largest purveyors of wine in the UK are our leading supermarkets, who stock their shelves with brands from the biggest multi-national producers. It’s not that brand-led wine is necessarily bad, it’s ultimately just bland and boring. On the plus side, it offers consistency in bottle after bottle, on the minus, there is no place for “terroir”.

Since well before the formation of Bin Ends, I have always been an advocate of independent wines from smaller producers and merchants. Their wines are more characterful, individual and sometimes a little quirky, but ultimately, although they cost more, I think the trade-off is worth it.

Tonight was the ultimate test. Brands or independents? Five pairs of wines were served blind, which would come out on top?

Pair 1: Riesling

1. The Society’s Exhibition Riesling (Josmeyer) 2008 Alsace (Wine Society £12.50)
A small biodynamic producer who sets high standards. Crystalline steely structure, with minerals, diesel and lime. Bone-dry finish, with good length. Complex. A personal favourite. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 7 votes)

2. Jacob’s Creek Barossa Riesling 2010 Barossa Valley S.Australia (Tesco £9.99)
A superior “terroir” wine by the giant Jacob’s Creek, who are owned by the Pernod Ricard group. Generally regarded as capable of producing superior wine. Sugary lemon-sherbet bouquet, repeated on the palate. Promising start leads to a bitter mid-palate and finish. High acidity and bitterness is masked by residual sweetness. Unbalanced. Unripe grapes manipulated in the winery. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 6 votes)

Round 1: Independents 1 Brand O (but surprisingly close-run)
Bin Enders in general are not that keen on Riesling

Pair 2: Sauvignon Blanc

3. Jacob’s Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2010 SE Australia (Tesco £7.49)
Some mouthwatering gooseberry character, but the developing a rather bitter note on the mid-palate and finish. Again, attempted to mask bitterness with a sweet finish. Bland and contrived.
(CHP 14, Bin Ends 7 votes)

4. Dourthe “La Grande Cuvee”Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Bordeaux (Waitrose £7.99)
From a powerful negociant and a bespoke supermarket, I’ve bent the rules a little on this one. Juicy and mouthwatering, more intense with gooseberry, elderflower and grassy characters. Clean, well-made and good finish. A pleasing expression of the grape. (CHP 16+ Bin Ends 5 votes)

Disappointing, but the brands have now levelled the score to 1-1

Pair 3: Pinot Noir

5. Jacob’s Creek Reserve pInot Noir 2009 Adelaide Hills S. Australia (Tesco £9.99)
Another Jacob’s Creek terroir wine, from a cool-climate region, as opposed to a blend from SE Australia, which covers the states of S. Australia, Victoria and New South Wales. Very promising intro. Savoury ripe cherry fruit, fresh, juicy and aromatic, balanced with a hint of sweetness, and a little velvet mouthfeel. Let down again on themid-palate, with metallic note and bitterness on the finish. It has good Pinot typicity, though.
(CHP 14+ Bin Ends 8 votes)

6. Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough NZ (Wine Society £11.95)
Founded by Brent Maris, this brand was bought out by the brewing giant Lion Nathan, and is now part of a multi-national group. Again, a slight bending of the rules, but it is listed by the Wine Society.

Also in a screwcap, this was ruined by a high sulphur level – it reeked! Rather vapid, but the finish was sweeter and more pleasing. A little more alcoholic, too. A bad bottle. (CHP 14 Bin Ends 3)

The brands have now moved into the lead, 2.1

Pair 4: Shiraz/Cabernet

A successful Australian original blend, whereby the Cabernet just gives the Shiraz a little more structure.

7. Jacob’s Creek Shiraz-Cabernet 2008 SE Australia (Tesco/Sainsbury/Waitrose £7.49)
Mulled stewed fruit, and not much black fruit character, more plummy. Sweetish fruit, with soft savoury characters, and once again, that bitter note creeps in. Not for me. (CHP 14 Bin Ends 7)

8. Brothers In Arms Shiraz-Cabernet 2005 Langhorne Creek S.Australia (Tanners £12.20)
Deep, dark, concentrated and very alcoholic (15.5%!). Black fruits, prune, liquorice, tar and leather. A complex melange, but this lacked balance and a wow factor. Poor value. (CHP 14+ Bin Ends 6 votes)

Another narrow victory for the brands who now go into an unassailable 3-1 lead!

Pair 5: Priorat

This is a highly prized DOC based in the Catalonian region near Reus to the west of Barcelona. The grapes benefit from altitude and schistous soils. The traditional indigenous varieties of Grenache and Carignan can be blended with the international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. The DOC is less than 25 years old, and the wines can be amongst the most expensive in Spain.

9. Sainsburys Taste the Difference 2007 Priorat (Sainsbury £9.99)
Despite a musty cork, this delivered in terms of freshness , richness and complexity. Black fruits predominate, in particular cherry and blackberry. Some slight raisiness and full-on alcohol, finishing on notes of chocolate. Well-made modern international style, probably with Cabernet and Shiraz in the mix. From a great vintage and worth recommending. (CHP 17 Bin Ends 11 votes)

10. Pasanau “Ceps Nous” 2008 Priorat (Wine Society £11.50)
Very mature and port-like nose, but better on the palate. Big and bold, with more red fruit character and a more cuddly wine. There is some acidity to give lift and the length is reasonable. I’ve tasted this before, and this disappointed. (CHP 16 Bin Ends 1 vote)

FINAL RESULT: Brands 4 Independents 1

Well, the results were a real turn-up for the book. A resounding 4-1 thrashing by the brands over the independents! In hindsight, I can see why. The initial flavours were more pleasing, although I felt the wines mainly fell apart on the mid-palate and finish, where technical wine-making skills were used to mask the faults.

My own scores revealed a more mixed picture, with the Independents winning by a more narrow margin of 3-2. On the one hand I was very disappointed by the sulphur-packed Wither Hills, which should have won, but, on the other, the Sainsbury TTD Priorat was a very good wine from a superior vintage.

Anyway – what do I know? I’m only a humble wine-writer!

COMING UP …

Tuesday, 27th September
Wine with Curry Evening at Bengal Delight Restaurant in Edgbaston
(Hagley Road, near Monument Road)
A chance to match 5 different wine-styles with curry.
I must know the final number by Thursday, 22nd September 2011, please
All-in cost per person (including food and wine) £20.00 head
Please e.mail me directly to book your place/s.

Tuesday, 25th October
White Burgundy … the world’s most expensive white wine.
Is there such a thing as a bargain? This evening will be the definitive
Canny wine-buyer’s guide to fabulous white wine. Not to be missed!
£15.00 per head entry

Tuesday 29th November
To be confirmed shortly

Tuesday, 20th December (1 week earlier, because of Bank Holiday)
to be confirmed shortly

Saturday, 14th January 2011
ANNUAL BIN ENDS DINNER
At Opus Restaurant in Birmingham City Centre
An evening of fine wine and food in a fantastic atmosphere!
(Ticketing Details will be announced shortly)