BIN ENDS WINE-TASTING GROUP
“Old World v. New World”
Tuesday, 17th May 2011
At St. Augustine’s Church Hall

It is always fascinating to compare two wines made with the same grape variety from two different wine regions across the world. In general terms, the expectation is that the New World wines are going to be fuller, fruitier and easier to drink. The grapes are grown in hotter regions, so achieve more ripeness and sugar, which gives a softer and more alcoholic end-result.

By contrast, European wines from the classic regions are less overtly fruity, have more structure and finesse. With a fully-dry finish, they tend to work better with food, and generally show less well when tasted alone.

That said, the differences are narrowing. In the New World, winemakers are continuing to exploit cooler climate regions, sometimes using altitude to achieve more freshness. In the Old World, however, the better estates eliminate unripe or rotten grapes, to obtain more healthy fruit with higher sugar-levels.

Tonight’s tasting compared some lesser appreciated wine-styles, rather than the more obvious. The question was, “ would they go to type?”

Pair I – Riesling

1. Alan McCorkindale Riesling 2009 Waipara Valley Canterbury/Christchurch (NZ) (Tanners c£10)
(cool climate style from South Island)
A steely core supports clean fruit definition, of lime-peel, green apple and minerals. It developed oil and a characteristic kerosene note, finishing surprisingly sweet . It just didn’t have the seamless balance of a good Mosel and, personally, I wasn’t too keen. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 11 votes). (voted by Bin Ends members as most popular white wine with 7 votes)

2. W. Gisselbrecht “Schifferberg SV” Riesling 2007 Alsace (Costco c£10)
Disappointingly dumb nose, but delivered on the palate. The structure was steely and minerally, with a fully dry finish of good length. Not overtly fruity, maybe with a backnote of lime. Nevertheless, this was stylish and focussed. From an excellent vintage, this will improve. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 4 votes) (overall voting 4 votes)

At the end of Round 1, a clear victory to the New World!

Pair II – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

3. Clos Floridene 2005 Graves (Fine & Rare Wines £13)
(55% Semillon 45% Sauvignon Blanc)
A wine that was drinking beautifully in January 2011 was sadly out of condition and badly oxidised. There was still a hint of lemon and minerals, but it was really poor. (CHP 10, Bin Ends 1 vote)

4. McHenry Hohnen 2009 Margaret River (Tanners £11.40)
From the founder of Cloudy Bay and Cape Mentelle, David Hohnen. Pale straw colour, with a lemony herbaceous touch and lanolin bouquet. On the palate, toast with white grapefruit. Lovely weight and balance. Really well-made. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 13 votes) (overall 6 votes)

Another clear win for the New World!

Pair III – Tannat

Tannat is a fiercely tannic grape from the Gascony region of South-West France, usually produced under thelabel Madiran. After crossing the Atlantic, it is now the signature grape of Uruguay.

5. Marichal Reserve Collection Tannat 2007 Uruguay (Wines of Uruguay £13.00 plus £3.60 p&p)
Very fresh, with leathery damson fruit and pronounced tannic grip. Good structure and length. A very well made wine. (CHP 17, BinEnds 8 votes) (overall 2 votes)

6. Chateau d’Aydie 2005 Madiran (Waitrose £13.00)
Altogether fuller and richer, more plummy, spicy and chocolatey. The tannins are still there, but smoother, sweeter and fuller. A big full-bodied wine. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 2 votes) (overall 0 votes)

A deeply unpopular round that divided opinion. Both wines depserately craved some rich, meaty cuisine, but unfortunately, there was none. The tannic structure was just too severe for some.
Interestingly, I felt the Madiran was more New World than the Uruguayan, but again, the New World won out.

Pair IV – Sangiovese

7. Sesti Grangiovese 2008 Rosso Toscano IGT (Tanners £13.80)
(100% Sangiovese)
A traditional winemaking style, using big barrels (“botti”). Pale colour (almost Pinor Noir like), with a pruny, furry-animal nose (brett). Initially quite dry and astringent, but developed smooth and silky sweet fruit, with very good length. Very stylish and old-fashioned. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 4 votes)

8. Coriole Vineyards Sangiovese 2008 McClaren Vale (Tanners £13.20)
Darker and fuller, with more primary black-cherry fruit and spice. Good upfront and rich, but fell down on the mid-palate and finish. A good wine, but I preferred the Tuscan. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 13 votes) (overall 11 votes).

The evening was a little controversial, with a positive dislike of the Tannat round. It was unfortunate, too, that the white Graves was out of condition. Nevertheless, there was a resounding preference for the New World, which easily won each round and an overall vote gave the NZ Riesling and the Australian Sangiovese as best wines of the night.

UPCOMING DATES FOR YOUR DIARY ...

Tuesday, 28th June
A Cruise along the River Loire …
A gentle trip exploring a selection of whites and reds from the great-value
Region. Ideal for summer drinking.

Saturday, 16th July 2011
The now legendary Bin Ends Barbecue
to be held at the home of Kate and Tony in Moseley, Birmingham.
Tickets (£20 per head) can be purchased from Derek & Barbara Lamb
(tel: 07879 110022) or e.mail: deklamb@lineone.net.
All the barbie food and wine you can eat and drink under one roof!

Tuesday, 23rd August (1 week earlier because of Bank Holiday)
“Brands versus Independents”
We’ll be blind-tasting a selection of 10 wines
side by side, from leading brands or supermarkets, against a set of wines
garnered from independent merchants.
Who’s going to offer the best value?
(£15.00 per head)

And the dates for the rest of this year ..

Tuesday, 27th September
Tuesday, 25th October
Tuesday 29th November
Tuesday, 20th December (1 week earlier, because of Bank Holiday)

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