There are three factors which influence the quality of a fine wine; the place of origin, the producer and the vintage. If push comes to shove, I’d rate the producer, in terms of importance, over the other two, but climate, too, plays a significant part, particularly in a region like Bordeaux, which benefits from the Atlantic influence.

In an average decade, there are generally three good years and the first decade of the second millennium have certainly borne this out, with three superlative vintages – 2000, 2005 and 2009. (Remarkably, 2010 seems set to follow). Some may point to climate change, but the truth is that there have been significant improvements in viticulture and vinification, particularly from the mid-1990s, including better use of treatments and chemicals, bunch-thinning, the use of sorting-tables (to remove unripe or rotten fruit), temperature-controlled fermentation and much improved hygiene.

The 1960s and 1970s saw a succession of mediocre or wash-out vintages, but even with a repeat in weather patterns, it’s unlikely that would happen today. Take 2007, for example. Regarded as the poorest of the decade, using modern techniques winemakers were still able to make credible wines.

Red Bordeaux Vintages

2009: Superlative vintage with ideal growing conditions across the region (10/10)
2008: Cool and wet growing season, saved by Indian summer. Better than anticipated. (7/10)
2007: Cool and wet growing season, again rescued by September sunshine. For early drinking (5/10)
2006: Promising vintage by miserable August and September. Select Right Bank over Left (7/10)
2005: Perfect dry weather conditions. Very healthy fruit (10/10)
2004: Massive vintage of uneven quality. Where yields limited, quality maintained and vintage undervalued (7/10)
2003: Heat and drought. Atypical. Over-rated with high levels of sugar and low acidity. Not for long-term keeping (5/10)
2002: Nearly a disaster, but saved by a superb September. Cabernet better than Merlot (6/10)
2001: Early promise marred by poor late summer. Better for Merlot. Left Bank 6/10 Right Bank 8/10)
2000: A perfect late summer produced a wonderful set of red wines (10/10)

THE WINES

1. Chateau Le Barrail 2009 Medoc (Tesco £6.99)
Typical supermarket budget claret. Jammy and spicy red fruits, with some heat supported by firm dusty tannins. Fairly simple and not good value, although it’s from a great vintage. (CHP 14+ Bin Ends 0 votes).

2. Chateau Haut-Langlade 2008 Montagne St. Emilion (Tesco £8.99)
Our token Right-Banker, from a St. Emilion satellite commune. Very fresh, with red fruits, spice and fierce drying tannins. Quite tough and not enough fruit to support the tannins. (CHP 14+ Bin Ends 1 vote)

3. Chateau Semonlon Haut-Medoc 2007 Haut-Medoc (Tanners £10.70)
(60% Merlot 40% Cabernet). Atypically no oak-ageing. Fuller extraction, with more depth of fruit. Very fresh, with pleasing structure, sweet fruit and length. Drinking well. Vibrant. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 2 votes)

4. Chateau Prieure-les-Tours 2006 Graves (Majestic £9.99)
Cabernet/Merlot blend, with Cabernet Franc
Fresh red fruits, but loose knit structure. Beginning to drink well, still retaining tannins and ending on a firm tannic finish. Lacks meat, though. (CHP 15 Bin Ends 1 vote)

5. Chateau Reysson 2005 Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois (Tesco £12.29)
50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon
Better concentration with refreshing red fruits. Quite positive, with pleasing structure and length. Not bad, but I’d expect more bang for my bucks. (CHP 16 Bin Ends 3 votes)

6. Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme 2004 Haut-Medoc CruBourgeois (Majestic £13.99)
65% Cabernet Sauvignon 33% Merlot 2% Petit Verdot
A wine of classic style, capable of long ageing. The Cabernet dominates with smoky blackcurrant fruit overlying a minerally tannic core. Smooth and silky, with excellent length. Showing very well. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 4 votes)

7. Chateau Preuillac 2003 Medoc Cru Bourgeois (Wine Hound £20.95)
Cabernet 54% Merlot 44% Cabernet Franc 2%
Under the ownership of Christophe Mau since 1998, this under-performing property has taken enormous strides in quality. Ripe jammy raspberry fruit, but controlled and still relatively fresh. Velvet texture, with good length. A good effort in a difficult year. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

8. Chateau Loudenne 2002 (The Four Vintners £12.50)
55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc.
Previously under the control of Gilbeys (gin), it was bought by J. P. Lafragette, a Cognac tycoon, in 2000. The quality has since improved dramatically. It’s known as the “pink chateau”, and is located in an excellent spot for tourism.
Very fine and elegant. Some flesh, but nicely structured with lovely silky texture and good length. No great depthy, but very classy. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 7 votes)

9. Chateau Terrey-Gros-Cailloux 2001 St. Julien Cru Bourgeois (S. H. Jones £23)
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Since 2005 under the control of Ducru Beaucaillou. Seemed pleasant and smooth, but stank of farmyard and had a serious volatile acidity problem. Wine had “Brett” and was starting to crack up. As the most senior wine in terms of appellation/commune, this was very disappointing. (CHP 14, Bin Ens 0 votes)

10. Chateau d’Agassac 2000 Haut-Medoc (Nickolls & Perks/Slurp c£16)
50% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon 3% Cabernet Franc
Lovely backbone with soft berry fruit, tobacco, leather and cedar. Developed chocolate on the finish. Good length. Charming. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 10 votes)

Conclusion
Bearing in mind that there was a sizeable variation in quality between the earlier and later wines, the different years appeared to roughly correspond to the vintage charts. It also showed why it is worth paying a bit more, because there was a significant quality improvement with the last five wines, as compared to the first five (there was one exception, of course, the Terrey-Gros-Cailloux was twice the price of the Loudenne – but half the wine!).

It also confirmed my prejudice that claret is better purchased from a specialist merchant rather than from a supermarket. Significantly, too, the older, more mature wines gave much more pleasure, which again indicates why it’s worth the trouble cellaring a wine from a good vintage for up to a decade before enjoying it.

UPCOMING DATES FOR YOUR DIARY ...

Tuesday, 17th May 2011 (two weeks earlier than usual)
“Old World versus New World”
A chance to compare Old World elegance with New World opulence.
Will the lusher, fruitier New World wines win out, or, in this age of
globalisation, are the styles coming closer together?
All wines will be tasted blind, and I promise, there will be a few surprises!
(£15.00 per head)

Tuesday, 28th June 2011
“A Cruise along the Loire”
At 600 miles long, the Loire Valley region produces a fascinating range of
grape varieties and wine styles; from bone-dry to sweet whites and light fruity reds.
All can make the perfect tipple for a summer’s day and, generally, they offer fantastic value.
(£15.00 per head)

Saturday, 16th July 2011
The now legendary Bin Ends Barbecue
to be held at the home of Kate and Tony in Moseley, Birmingham.
Tickets (£20 per head) can be purchased from Derek & Barbara Lamb
(tel: 07879 110022) or e.mail: deklamb@lineone.net.
All the barbie food and wine you can eat and drink under one roof!

Tuesday, 23rd August 2011 (one week earlier because of Bank Holiday)
“Brands versus Independents”
We’ll be blind-tasting a selection of 10 wines
side by side, from leading brands or supermarkets, against a set of wines
garnered from independent merchants.
Who’s going to offer the best value?
(£15.00 per head)

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And please find below the dates of Bin Ends tastings
For the rest of this year ….

Tuesday, 27th September
Tuesday, 25th October
Tuesday 29th November
Tuesday, 20th December (1 week earlier, because of Bank Holiday)

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