“BIN ENDS” WINE TASTING GROUP

“CHABLIS”

Tuesday, 29th September 2010
Presented by Clive Platman

Amongst wine-lovers, Chablis is one of the most famous generic names for a style of unoaked Chardonnay. Medium-bodied in style, it should be fresh and crisp, with finesse and elegance, just fattened out with a knob of butter. Above all, it’s hallmarked by steeliness, flint and mineral characters, which combine to make a unique brand. Often copied and debased, it appears that the genuine article can never be successfully reproduced.

Taking its name from a less-than-remarkable village in Northern Burgundy, Chablis lies at a halfway point between Champagne to the north and the more opulent Cote d’Or in the South. At 48° latitude, it is certainly one of the most northerly still white wine regions in the world.

The climate is cool continental, with risks of frost in spring and hale in summer. The distinguishing features, though, are the underlying Kimmeridgean Marl soils. Here, the clays are mixed with fossilised shells to create a light, porous and free-draining soil that imparts a certain mineral character to the wines, as the vines thrust down their roots in search of moisture and nutrients.

Taking aside Petit Chablis, which is usually grown on less suitable Portland limestone, there are three grades of Chablis; basic “village”, Premier Cru and Grand Cru. It is here that aspect comes into play, whereby the Grand Crus are located on the slopes with the best orientation, in terms of sunlight and drainage. Thus, there is a direct corrrelation between the potential quality and terroir, and the vineyards are assessed accordingly.

Amongst the best Grand Cru sites are Valmur, Les Clos, and Vaudesir, but the personality of Chablis, though, really shines through at Premier Cru level. The best regarded are Montee de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu and Fourchaume, followed by Vaillons, Montmains and Cote de Lechet. In all there are 17 Premier Crus but many are not worthy of the name.

At present, the total production (including Petit Chablis) is from around just under 5000 ha. Over the past 30 years, however, there has been a considerable expansion. Indeed, the Premier Cru sites have increased by a considerable 148ha, so inevitably, this has led to a drop in quality and damage to it’s reputation.

In spite of its success, the region is not without its controversy. Among the less scrupulous producers, one criticism has been over-production, whereby high yields product a dilute wine. The rapid expansion of the vineyards has also led to an abundance of young vines, which simply cannot reproduce the quality of fruit of more mature ones. Moreover, some of these plantings have been on the inferior Portland soils, rather than on the superior Kimmeridgean.

Perhaps the biggest argument in the vineyards is whether to machine or hand-harvest. The latter is a good deal more expensive, and relies on a trained team of pickers. They can also negotiate steep slopes better than machines. In comparison, machines can offer greater flexibility and speed, and any substandard fruit could easily be eliminated by hand before the machines are sent in. Even using manual pickers, a team is usually required to pick out unripe or rotten fruit on a sorting table in the winery.

Within the winery, there have also been accusations of over-manipulation in the form of excess racking and filtering which can rip the soul out of a wine. More controversially, though, is the use of oak, whereby the fermentation or ageing in barrel can impart a flavour of vanilla and toast, and this will be more pronounced in a new cask. The second aspect is that the use of a barrel can support the structure of a wine by supplying wood tannins, but the key point is that it should be a subordinate role, integrating the wine rather than dominating the flavour.

Quintessential Chablis is a clean fresh style, so the clumsy use of new oak will result in a Meursault or New World Chardonnay. Many of the leading producers such as Durup eschew the use entirely, relying principally on stainless-steel. Old oak, which imparts no overt flavour characteristics, can add complexity to the structure, and it is no coincidence that two of the greatest Chablis producers, Raveneau and Dauvissat, use old barrels between 6 and 8 years of age.

The Wines

The tasting was organised essentially in 3 flights of quality level. The first four wines covered Chablis at village level, the next looked at Premier Cru, and the final wine was a Grand Cru. The tasting itself was principally based on the 2008 vintage, although we were able to sample 2007 for comparative purposes at Premier Cru level, and our Grand Cru was 2006.

Flight 1

1. Domaine Pisseloup 2008
A small independent concern, with 8.5ha vines on Kimmeridgean Marl, adopting an organic approach. Rich and full on the nose, initially flinty and steely, but fattening out into cream. It had a bitter edge, but follows through to a pleasing finish. Stylish, typical, full-flavoured and yeasty. (lees stirring used?) (CHP 16+., Bin Ends 6 votes – well liked).

2. Domaine Jean Durup Chateau de Maligny 2008
A large estate located at Maligny, comprising 206ha. Trades under various “sous-names”, such as Chateau de Maligny, Domaine des Valery et al. They only use stainless steel cement and fibreglass, but no oak.
Quite dumb on the nose. Steely, crisp and clean on the palate, but lacks character and expression. A little thin and austere, not much finish. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3. Domaine Sylvain Mosnier Chablis 2008
Established in 1978, comprises 17ha. Old vines and lowish yields. Vinification using natural yeast. No oak. Very crisp, minerally and steely. A little overwhelmed by the richness of the Pisseloup, but nonetheless, a good effort. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4. Domaine Billaud-Simon “Tete d’Or” 2008
Old established family since 1815. Over the last generation, there has been a conversion from wood to stainless steel and wood-presses to pneumatic. Emphasis on low yields, but they still use some oak, particularly for the “Tete d’Or”. Initially crisp and minerally, but developing butter and cream. Delicate, fresh and with a great deal of finesse.
(CHP 16++, Bin Ends 1 vote)

Flight 2 – Premier Cru

5. Domaine Sylvain Mosnier Premier Cru Beauroy 2008
A Beauroy producer par excellence, of a normally insipid and uninspired Premier Cru. Intensely minerally and spicy, with subtle fruit and flint, developing cream. Smooth, sophisticated and ethereal. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 1 vote)

6. Domaine Jean Durup Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2008
A hint of sulphur, but steely with a little green fruit developing cream and weight. Fuller and weightier than the 2007 (below), but less developed. A fine wine.
(CHP 17, Bin Ends 3 votes)

7. Domaine Jean Durup Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2007
Although one year older, a little lighter and fresher than the above. Again, a note of sulphur, but lovely elegance and lightness, with a very fine finish. A little classier than the 2008. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 4 votes).

8. Domaine Bernard Defaix Premier Cru Cote de Lechet 2008
25ha estate since 1959, with 9ha in the “climat”. Low yields of 35hl/ha for “vieilles vignes”. Uses sorting table, stainless-steel fermentation and wine left on lees. Old vines are partly vinified in wood.
Profound, with green fruit and spice, developing cream and butter and oatmeal characters. The flavours are complex and the finish fine and long. A wine with everything. Glorious!
(CHP 19, Bin Ends 7 votes).

9. Domaine Benoit Droin Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2008
Been winemaking for 13 generations since 1640. 50% oak fermented and barrel-aged. Barriques sourced from Allier, Troncais and Vosges.
Nose not pleasant, reeking of sulphur and cheese. Powerful and weighty on the palate, with fruit , spice and cream. Round and smooth, yet retaining good bite. Very good, but needs time.(CHP 18, Bin Ends 2 votes)

10. Domaine Billaud-Simon Grand Cru Vaudesir 2006
Full-bodied, minerally, rich and spicy, yet retaining acid spine. Flinty, with oatmeal, very complex with phenomenal length. A perfect combination of elegance and raw power. Beautiful. (CHP 18+ Bin Ends 9 votes)

This was a difficult tasting for some, concentrating on a relatively narrow range of similar wines. Moreover, these are wines best appreciated with food, and wines that are not noted for obvious fruit or oaky characters.

For myself and the rest, this was a Chablis masterclass. It was fascinating exercise to contrast the village and 1er Cru wines, and observe the subtle differences in approach and quality.

There was no doubt, though, that Premier Cru Chablis offers the best value in terms of quality and value. These, for me, were the epitome of great Chablis and the Defaix Cote de Lechet stood out as a brilliant example. Of course, the Grand Cru Vaudesir received the majority vote but then it should for the asking price.

A huge thanks to Austen Biss for supplying the wines and a few copies of his book, “A Guide to the Wines of Chablis” are still available at £15 a copy (reduced from £17), via myself.

COMING UP .... Dates for your diary

Tuesday 26th October 2010
Domaine Jones
Katie Jones former export director of Mont Tauch in Fitou, ventured forth to become
A wine-maker in her own right. She will be presenting a selection of
Her own wines and telling her story. Not to be missed!
£15 per head entry

Tuesday 30th November
Assessing Quality
Tonight we will be looking at different levels of quality in three different
Wine-styles, contrasting the old and new world approaches.
All wines will be tasted blind, so no peeking!
Should be highly educational, and a lot of fun!
£15 per head entry

Tuesday 21st December
Wine with Chocolate
A selection of wines will be chosen to match a selection of chocolate
Dishes. Whether they go or not will be decided on the night.
£15 per head entry

Saturday 29th Jan 2011
Bin Ends Annual Dinner
A Bacchanalian Feast of food and wine matching
………..