“BIN ENDS” WINE TASTING GROUP

“NEW WORLD CHARDONNAY”

Tuesday, 30th March 2010
Presented by Clive Platman

Well-know, fashionable and the ultimate crowd-pleased, Chardonnay is easily the world’;s most popular white grape. Originally under the guise of Chablis and White Burgundy, it produced such legendary incarnations as Le Montrachet and Merusault, but has now moved on to produce some stunning classics in the New World.

In the beginning, there were simply two styles of Chardonnay. The first was Chablis, from a cooler region in the north of Burgundy. As the climate was colder, traditional Chablis never underwent malolactic fermentation. (This is a bacteriological fermentation, similar to the production of yogurt, whereby the apple acids are converted to lactic acids. All red wines undergo a malo). The fruit, therefore, was much harder, greener and more appley, compared to the creamier softer styles of classic White Burgundy.

Secondly, Chablis was a much poorer area than the Cote d’Or, and so the vine-growers could not afford new oak barrels. The result is that traditional Chablis doesn’t have the more buttery oaky characters that is associated with, say, Meursault, which relies on both a malo and a proportion of new oak to reproduce the style.

The secret of its success in the New World has been its adaptability. IN the classic regions the profile is muted from lemon-citrus to apple, generally underpinned with butter. Transported to warmer climes, Chardonnay can take on other flavours, such as ripe melon, peach, pineapple or even tropical fruit. Sugar and ripeness levels are higher, too, giving greater roundness, softness and sweetness, all by-products of higher alcoholic strength.

Part of the secret of its success is its ability to be moulded by the winemaker. Unlike such aromatics as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, Chardonnay adores oak, old or new. Couple this with the ability to control the malolactic fermentation, opens up a range of possibilities and blending options.

Of course, terroir still has a significant influence to play, but what we are seeing today in the New World is a situation where winemakers want to attempt to reproduce a classic style, but very much in their own fashion. Many early attempts were very crude and even grotesque with tinned-peach characters, toffee and obscene levels of alcohol. What is emerging today, though, is a new level of sophistication and elegance with the resultant creation of New World classics.

Tonight we tasted 10 Chardonnays from wine-producing regions around the world, with all bar one sourced from the Wine Society. The question was – would the wines live up to the idyll?

1. Wither Hills Chardonnay 2008 Wairau Valley Marlborough NZ (£7.50)
A relatively cool-climate area on the northern tip of the South Island. This was light, with apple and lemon characters, underpinned with cream and spice. The alcohol was well-masked, with good balance, but I didn’t like the sweet residual sugar finish. It was generally well-received and considered good value (CHP 15, Bin Ends 5 votes).

2. Catena Chardonnay 2008 Mendoza Argentina (£9.95)
Altitude is the key to introducing freshness and acidity into a hot-climate region.

Surprisingly fresh and minerally, with neutral flavoured fruit, developing a pleasing creamy texture. Quite smooth and polished, finishing sweet, but with an unpleasant bitter note. Not as good as the Wither Hills. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3. Hahn Estates Chardonnay 2007 Monterey, California (£10.95)
Although some way to the south of San Francisco, Monterey benefits from maritime fogs, which keeps the temperature down, and is well-regarded for its Chardonnay.

This immediately showed more maturity on the bouquet, which was very expressive. Initially, it was minerally, then toasty and buttery. Again very soft with a sweetish finish, showing a little complexity. Very much in the “lush” Californian style, but not to my palate. (CPH 15+, Bin Ends 1 vote)

4. Vina Leyda Lo 5 Chardonnay 2008 Leyda Valley Chile (£ )
The Valle de Leyda is a recognised zone to the west of Santiago and close to the coast. It, too, benefits from the cool Pacific influence. This was minerally with grapefruit citrus, developing butter, vanilla and toast. Rich, hiding the alcohol well, this was much better than I had expected. (CHP 16+ Bin Ends 3 votes)

5. Quoin Rock Chardonnay 2003 Cape Agulhas S. Africa (£9.95)
Cape Agulhas lies to the south-east of Cape Town, on the southern tip of the Cape. It is noted as a cool-climate area, where it has been commended, in particular, for Sauvignon Blanc.

Benefits from maturity, with a polished sweet citrus bouquet. The initial attack was quite acidic, with lemon-citrus fruit, butter and a sweet finish. It had a highish dose of sulphur and may even have been acidified, as it seemed almost artificial or confected. Disappointing. (CHP 13+, Bin Ends 0 votes)

6. The Society’s Exhibition Chardonnay 2008 Tasmania Australia (£12.95)
Tasmania is the coolest part of Australia and, unsurprisingly, has created an excellent reputation for fizz, e.g. Jansz. This example, by Claudio Radenti, was aged in used barrels between 2-5 years old.

Fresh, light and minerally, with delicious citrus fruit. Polished, buttery, elegant and stylish. Superb value and highly recommended. Fantastic knife-edge balance. What a step up in quality. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 11 votes)
7. Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay 2008 Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
(Australia) (£13.95)
Another cooler-climate area to the south of Melbourne. Crystalline, well-defined and focussed, with freshness, minerality and understated lemon-citrus fruit. There was a little spice, developing butter, and what a fabulous finish! This was really classy, and easily my wine of the night, outperforming many a white Burgundy at twice the price!
(CHP 18+, Bin Ends 12 votes).

8. Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 Sonoma Coast (£15 Waitrose)
To the north of San Francisco, this is an exceptionally cool-climate coastal area, best regarded for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Minerally, understated and perhaps slightly oxidative. Lovely balance, weight and texture, nutty and buttery, with a long finish. Perhaps just past its best, but will be amazing with food. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 2 votes).

9. Leeuwin Prelude 2006 Margaret River Western Australia (£17)
Another cool-climate region, at least by Australian standards, the Leeuwin Estate is world-renowned for its Art Series Chardonnay. The Prelude is their entry-level. Margaret River produces wines with fabulous definition and clarity of fruit.

Quite full-on, with lemon-citrus and apple, developing into butter with a long fine finish. The strong fruit character was showy and blousy, compared to the previous two examples, but, standing alone, this would have scored higher. Very polished. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 4).

10. Kumeu River 2006 Auckland NZ (£15.50)
Surprisingly, this top NZ producer operates out of Auckland which is noted for its rainy sub-tropical climate. Very much against the grain.

An immediate whiff of burnt matches/sulphur, permeated the wine, yet despite that, it still performed with mineral and lemon-citrus flavours. Still a little hot on the palate, it showed some style with a fine finish. Would be better with less sulphur. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 6).

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Amongst the various members comments were “it’s a love it or loathe it variety” and certainly, there were at least two dissenting voices. In the New World, particularly, it produces a hefty wine and we were all agreed they would have benefitted from matching with food.

There were also similarities throughout and, as the tasting progressed, some found a touch of lethargy setting in. The idea of the tasting, though, was to look out for regional differences, and I felt this came through, particularly with the three Australian examples.

Like many New World styles, there can be a problem of too much alcohol and excessive residual sweetness. As a whole, I felt the alcohol remained in check, but a number of wines received low scores from me because of the sugar levels. Believe it or not, this is regarded as a real crowd-pleased and certainly, residual sugar levels make it much easier to drink a wine without food.

That said, the pick of the wines were evident in the second half, and here the more restrained cool-climate styles proved a big hit. No doubt about it, these were wines every bit as sophisticated, but less expensive than the Old World competition.

COMING UP ....

Tuesday, 20th April 2010 (1 week earlier than usual)
Tuscan Reds
From Brunello to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano,
You’ll be an expert on Chianti and Sangiovese by the end of the night!
(entry: £15.00 per head)

Tuesday, 18th May 2010 (one week earlier than usual)
You know all about “B-list” celebs, well tonight’s tasting is
of “B-List” whites. It’s a chance to taste some great summer
tipples from a range of great wines too often overlooked.
(entry: £15.00 per head)

Tuesday, June 2010

Saturday, 10th July 2010