“BIN ENDS” WINE TASTING GROUP

“NEW WORLD CABERNET BLENDS”

Tuesday, 23rd February 2010
Presented by Clive Platman

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of four French black varietals that stand head-and-shoulders above the rest. The principal grape of such legendary Pauillacs as Latour, Lafite and Mouton, winemakers across the world have striven hard to replicate that success.

A native of Bordeaux, its parentage is from Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, half-black and half-white. It favours the warmer gravel soils encountered in the Medoc, needing that bit extra time to ripen.

Small and thick-skinned, the grape produces wines of great structure, firm tannins and great longevity. It thrives on barrel-ageing and blending with other varietals such as the softer Merlot. The tasting profile is blackcurrant fruit, sometimes showing green capsicum or bell peppers when unripe.

It’s a variety that has adapted well to the New World, where it thrives in warmer climates. Indeed, there are now at least two new “classic” areas, namely Napa Valley and Coonawarra, where it fetches prices that outstrip the best of Bordeaux.

The purpose of tonight’s tasting was to see just how well the grape had adapted across the globe, whether or not there is now just one homogenous international style, or whether there were any distinct regional or national differences between the wines.

All wines were sourced from the Wine Society, apart from the two Katnooks, now available from Bibendum and the Joseph Moda Amarone, which was taken from CHP’s stock.

THE WINES

1. The Society’s Exhibition French Cabernet 2006 Domaine de l’Arjolle VdP des Cotes de Thongue (Languedoc) (£9.95)
Initially quite fresh-tasting, with some acidic bite, flavours of blackcurrant pastilles. Very full, rich and alcoholic, with soft tannins, but finishing on a persistent bitter note. It pushed the right buttons, but lacked complexity and structure. OK, but uninspired.
(CHP 14+, Bin Ends 10 votes)

(I included a French Cabernet in a New World theme because the Languedoc is very much the New world within France)

2. Trinity Hill “The Trinity” 2005 Hawkes Bay New Zealand (£9.95)
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
A much cooler, more temperate climate has led to a fresher, lighter, almost minty style. Leathery plum fruit, but stalky and thin with a bitter finish. Good structure and clean, but why bother? I can get something better from Bordeaux at £2-£3 less.
(CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes).

3. Underraga “T.H” Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Alto Maipo Chile (£10.95)
Advertised as supremely elegant, from a high-altitude vineyard, picked ripe, but not over-ripe. Unfortunately, cork-taint was immediately apparent, but nevertheless, it was thick, concentrated, with rose-petal pastille flavours. On the palate, the fruit was “pinched”, and the finish was bitter. Smelt of drains and old socks! (CHP 0 marks, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4. Catena Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza Argentina (£9.95)
Thick, dark and oaky. Big, bold, robust and structured. Smoky, with a charred edge, it developed silky black chocolate, with a sweetish black-fruit finish. (CHP 16+ Bin Ends 11 votes)

5. The Society’s Exhibition Californian Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Sonoma County California by Stratford (13.95)
More mellow, smoother and polished. Strong blackcurrant flavours, but quite hot and spicy, with a slightly drying astringent finish. Pleasing, but just drying out. Needs drinking up. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 8 votes).

6. Klein Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Constantia South Africa (£13.95)
Initially coffee, mocha, blackcurrant and grilled nuts, but then this gave way to a smell of drains and dirty socks. Complex, but ruined by cork-taint. (CHP 0, Bin Ends 0 votes)

7. Sandalford Cabernet Merlot 2008 Margaret River W.Australia (£9.95)
Initially bright blackcurrant, leather and spice, developing a smooth mouthfeel, if not a little hot, but then it all disappears. Hollow on the mid-palate, lacking complexity and structure. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 1 vote)
(based on price/quality should have been served at No. 3, and before 5 and 6).

8. Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Coonawarra South Australia (£15.99 Bibendum)
Mint, eucalyptus and blackcurrant flavours, wrapped up in a pleasing soft structure and lingering fruit. Rather good (screwcap closure). (CHP 17, Bin Ends 1 vote)

9. Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Coonawarra South Australia
(£24.00 Bibendum)
Eucalyptus, spice and mulled fruit. Smooth, developing into a long finish, but just a touch hollow on the mid-palate. Complex, with dusty soft tannins. Illustrates beautifully how maturity can improve a wine. Cork closure. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 15 votes).

10. Joseph Cabernet Merlot Moda Amarone 1998 McLaren Vale S. Australia (£20)

Made by the “Amarone” method, using dessiccated or partially dried grapes.
Dried fruit characters, developing into a silky smooth mouthfeel and finish. Complex and characterful, there were faults, too, such as VA and Brett. Tasted better than the sum of the parts. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 6 votes)

---------------

As far as tastings go, this was a bit of a mixed bag. There were some popular examples at all price ranges, but there were some dogs too. The Trinity Hill was thin and sour, and as for the Underraga, I’m not sure if I’d like it even in good condition.

I was also disappointed by the fact that 2 out of 10 bottles were corked which, at 20% is unacceptable. While I’ll be letting the Wine Society know, it does raise that old chestnut - are traditional closures preferable to screwcaps? Certainly, with a cork closure, you fully understand the ageing profile but accept the risk of taint. Alternatively, with a screwcap, there is a greater problem of reduction (sulphur) and the natural development of the wine is inhibited. This is fine if you want to drink fruit, but not so if you want the wine to develop complexity.

Finally, while Cabernet Sauvignon is undoubtedly an international varietal, what was pleasing were distinct regional variations and characters. Each of the wines may have been Cabernet, but they were also very much a product of their own geographical location.

COMING UP ....

Tuesday, 30th March 2010
Chardonnay from Around the World.
A chance to explore terroir and taste some
New World styles from some top international producers
(Entry: £15.00 per head)

Tuesday, 20th April 2010 (1 week earlier than usual)
Tuscan Reds
From Brunello to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano,
You’ll be an expert on Chianti and Sangiovese by the end of the night!
(entry: £15.00 per head)

Tuesday, 18th May 2010 (one week earlier than usual)
You know all about “B-list” celebs, well tonight’s tasting is
of “B-List” whites. It’s a chance to taste some great summer
tipples from a range of great wines too often overlooked.
(entry: £15.00 per head)

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com