“BIN ENDS” WINE TASTING GROUP

“UNDERSTANDING BORDEAUX”

Tuesday, 24th November 2009
Presented by Clive Platman

Traditionally the favourite tipple of the English middle classes, Bordeaux has been exporting its wines to these shores for the past 850 years. Although, more recently, it has lost some of its lustre, as the drinking classes have switched their allegiance to the New World, Bordeaux still stands pre-eminent as the world’s largest fine-wine region.

To an outsider, Bordeaux can appear aloof and indifferent. Part of this attitude can be explained by the traditional method of marketing the top wines, known as “La Place”. Here, the chateau-owners sell their wines to wine merchants (negociants) via “courtiers”, sometimes following lengthy price haggling. The producers are therefore distant and removed from the ultimate consumers with whom they have no direct contact.

The inexperienced wine-lover can find Bordeaux extremely confusing and intimidating. There are around 57 AOCs spread across the region, on top of which are a number of different classifications in each of the different sub-zones; these include St. Emilion, Graves, Sauternes and two in the Medoc. By far the most famous is the Medoc classification of 1855.

There is, however, a much easier way of cutting through the flannel. Nearly 90% of the region is concerned with red wine, and most of this is a blend either of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. These are supplemented by three other varieties which are very much a supporting cast, namely Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, which are, for the most part, used for perfume, seasoning and structure.

At the confluence of the Rivers Garonne and Dordogne, Bordeaux is usually divided into three regions, the Left Bank, the Right Bank and the Entre-Deux-Mers (EDM), the bit in the middle. The Medoc and Graves, on the Left Bank, share warm, free-draining gravel soils, ideally suited to the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon. The Right Bank and EDM possess cooler, moisture-retaining clay/limestone soils, where the early-ripening Merlot thrives.

Basic AOC Bordeaux accounts for around 50% of the total Bordeaux production and, for the most part, is produced in the EDM. (EDM is a white AOC only, so the reds from here are only allowed a simple Bordeaux or Bordeaux Superieur label). It can also be seen that Merlot is by far the most widely planted and popular variety.

The focus of tonight’s reds-only tasting was to highlight different levels of price and quality, compare Left and Right Bank styles, and contrast a number of different vintages.

THE WINES

1. Chateau Beaulieu 2004 Bordeaux Superieur Comte de Tastes (CHP c£9.00, Fore Aux Vins Calais)
60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Based in EDM. The 2004 is regarded as a lean and structured vintage, “classic” in the sense of “typical”. Now fully mature, the primary fruit had faded, yet still firm and grippy, with a complex dry finish. Polished and sophisticated. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 2 votes)

2. Chateau Bois Joly 2005 Cotes de Castillon (Wine Society, £6.95)
This AOC lies immediately to the east of St. Emilion, and is noted for the quality of its Petits Chateaux. Predominantly a Merlot blend. The 2005 vintage is considered by connoisseurs to be one of the finest in the past 60 years.
Light, vibrant and refreshingly traditional claret. Plummy fruit, leathery tannins developing into a delicious chocolate finish. Utterly charming. (CHP 16+ Bin Ends 0 votes).

3. Ch. De la Grave “Caractere” 2004 Cotes de Bourg (Wine Society £7.95)
The Cotes de Bourg and Cotes de Blaye are two more neglected AOCs, where one can unearth some absolute gems from the Petits Chateaux. Again, Merlot dominated blends and again the “typical” 2004 vintage.
Austere, juicy and fresh. A classic lean style, with a firm dry finish.(This is followed by the 2005 vintage which should have more popular appeal!). (CHP 16, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4. Chateau Lassus 2005 Medoc (Wine Society £8.50)
At the top end of the peninsula, the vines are later ripening and the quality more variable than the Haut-medoc to the south. In an effort to improve quality, there has been a big shift away from Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot. 2005 vintage notes as before.
Initially, firm, tight-knit and closed, but then exploded with black-cherry fruit, developing into a silky black-chocolate finish. Remarkable value. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 10 votes).

5. Chateau Villa Bel-Air 2002 Graves (CHP Foirer aux Vins £11.50)
There is a huge divide in quality between the Northern and Southern Graves, and this was officially recognised and sanctioned with the creation of the AOC Pessac-Leognan in 1987, representing the better quality northern half. The rump that was left, the southern Graves, is a bit of a backwater, with variable quality.
Villa Bel-Air is owned by Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch-Bages fame, and produces a very acceptable white, and a good honest red. 2002 was a relatively cool vintage, saved by a good autumn. Average quality. Roughly a 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Unpretentious medium-bodied red, with hints of celery and aniseed. Fruit fading but pleasing structure. Perhaps showing its age, but still drinkable. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 0 votes).

6. Chateau Caronne St. Gemme 2004 Haut-Medoc (£12.25 Wine Society)
Classic Left Bank blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot.
Good value, but at times inconsistent property, the 2004 vintage has received a number of plaudits.
Lovely spicy cassis fruit, supported by toasty vanilla and firm tannins. Great structure and a great finish. Everything you want (and more) from a good value claret.
(CHP 18 Bin Ends 7 votes).

7. Chateau Canon-Chaigneau 2001 Lalande de Pomerol (CHP Foire aux Vins £12.50)
Lalande de Pomerol has had a lacklustre and rustic reputation as a consequence of poor ripeness and excessive yields, but this example demonstrated what can be achieved in the right hands. Predominantly Merlot. 2001 is an under-rated Right-Bank vintage, overshadowed by 2000, but capable of producing some great wine.
Plush, round, ripe and plump, with delicious black-cherry fruit. Soft, mature and easy-drinking. At its peak. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 11 votes)

8. Chateau La Tour de Bessan 2003 Margaux (CHP c£16 purchased at property)
(40% Cabernet Sauv, 36% Merlot 24% Cabernet Franc) A Cru Bourgeois estate, owned by Marie-Laure Lurton, one of the members of the Lurton family who are major players on the Bordeaux scene. Margaux is a commune in the Haut-Medoc, and its wines are noted for their perfume and elegance. 2003 was a very hot vintage.
Again full-bodied, plump and round, quite hot and spicy. Black fruits predominate, with cassis and black-cherry. Stilky smooth and plush. A little atypical. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 5 votes)

9. Chateau Corbin 2000 St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe (CHP c£20)
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc.
St. Emilion is by far the largest and best-known Right Bank AOC. 2000 was a great post-war vintage only eclipsed by 2005.
Lovely bite and acidity. Black-cherry fruit, firm tannins transforming to velvet and leather, then finishing on chocolate. Superb length, really complex and splendid.
(CHP 18+ Bin Ends 15 votes)

10. Chateau Talbot 1996 St. Julien 4eme Cru Classe (CHP £33 Foire aux Vins)
St. Julien is a second Haut-Medoc commune, and Talbot achieved 4th Growth status in the 1855 classification. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 1996 is regarded as the second best Left Bank vintage of the 90s, some way behind the voluptuous 1990 vintage.

Now fully mature and ready for drinking. Primary fruit had faded, but notes of cedar and celery were present. Plenty of polish, good backbone and great length. Still classy. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 2 votes).

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What a splendid tasting! All the wines were good and very drinkable, demonstrating that, if you follow the form (or buy from an independent specialist such as the Wine Society or Tanners), Bordeaux will offer pleasurable and consistent drinking right across the board, at a price to suit any pocket.

At the bargain end, the Bois-Joly was super, but the Lassus was simply amazing. At mid-price, the Canon-Chaigneau and Caronne Ste-Gemme attracted plenty of plaudits and almost everyone was just bowled over by the Corbin.

Bordeaux has a great reputation for fine wine, and tonight’s tasting demonstrated just why it’s deserved. Easily the tasting event of the season!

COMING UP ....

Tuesday, 15th December 2009
The Dessert Wines of France:
Accompanied by Stilton and Mince Pies
Entry £15 per person

Friday, 29th January 2010
Bin Ends Annual Dinner, at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham
Tickets are still available from Derek & Barbara Lamb
A few tickets still available, contact them on:
deklamb@lineone.net or barlamb@lineone.net
£50.00 per head for a 3 course meal, 5 wines and all service charges
(a bargain or what!)

Tuesday, 23rd February 2010
New World Cabernet Sauvignon
Entry fee – to be advised £10 or £15

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com