BIN ENDS WINE TASTING GROUP
“The Wines of Portugal”
Tuesday, 22nd September 2009
At St. Augustine’s Church Hall
Presented by Wine Educator, Laura Clay

Cut off on the western fringe of Europe, Portugal has presented an isolated figure in the world of wine. Famous over centuries for Port and Madeira, there was little else of any note, apart from Mateus Rose, which still accounts for the lion’s share of the country’s exports.

The reds had a deserved reputation for being tough, tannic and fruitless, and the whites, apart from the over-sweetened and semi-fizzy Vinho Verde, as flabby, oxidised and vapid. Until Portugal joined the EU in the 1980s, most of the table-wine was consumed by an undemanding domestic market.

EU membership, though, brought an amazing transformation. The country’s infrastructure was put on a modern footing, and regions previously considered remote, now became accessible. With regard to the wine industry specifically, over 200 indigenous grape varieties were eventually classified, and modern wine-making techniques finally introduced.

As a relative late-comer, Portugal is still very much an unknown quantity. Rather than pursue the well-beaten path of pursuing a half-dozen of the best-known French varietals, reproduced successfully across the globe, Portugal has focussed on its own indigenous grapes, now realising their full potential, thanks to modern technology such as temperature-controlled fermentation.

This gives Portugal its unique selling-point, and is the principal reason why Portugal should be a destination for any self-professed wine-lover. It has originality in abundance.

The Portuguese, though, don’t help themselves with their labelling. As the world’s 10th largest producer, it has 29 separate DOCs, of which only a handful are of real interest. The IPR category (DOCs in waiting), doesn’t help matters, but the lower VR (Vinho Regional) classification for country wines (Vin de Pays) is relatively easy and, ironically, a better guide for more fruit-driven and international styles.

The top appellation by far is the Douro, which is essentially the table-wine name for the Port region. In the past 5 years, Dao is finally living up to its promise of sturdy robust reds, with fruit and tannin, and may over the next few years even rival Douro.

Alentejo in the south, is a warmer drier region, and has carved out a reputation for its ripe, juicy and generous reds, very much in the New World style, using both native and international grapes in the blends. The irony is that, 30 years ago, it was regarded as a white-wine region.

The regions of Ribatejo, Estremadura and Terras do Sado, are cooler and wetter than Alentejo, and produce wines of a lighter style. Cooler and wetter still is the coastal Vinho Verde, noted for its crisp dry and refreshing low-alcohol whites, often with just a slight spritz or prickle. Perhaps the perfect summer tipple.

THE WINES

Whites

1. Quinta da Franqueira 2007 Vinho Verde
Vinho Verde can produce red as well as white, as the term “green wine” denotes a young fresh wine. The top varieties for whites are Alvarinho, Arinto (Paderna), Loureiro and Trajadura. The region is around 30,000 hectares, with about 60,000 growers, meaning that the holdings are tiny, with most wine commercialised by co-ops or large producers. It’s an area that’s green and lush, due to its high annual rainfall.
This example was citrussy and appley, very crisp, fresh and light, with a spritz. Clean with a fully dry finish, showing excellent typicity. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 2 votes)

2. Vinha da Urze 2008 Douro (£7.99 M&S)
One of two whites from the Douro. This was very fresh and clean, again with citrus and apple fruit. A good introduction, though, was let down by a perceptible and persistent bitter finish. I suspect the grapes were picked too early for freshness, and were unripe. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3. Duas Quintas 2008 Douro (£8.79) Adriano Ramos Pinto
(grapes Viozinho, Rabigato & Arinto)
The grapes were sourced from two separate estates, each enjoying its own micro-climate. A wine with more weight, depth and complexity, but at the expense of freshness. Again, citrus and green-apple flavours were to the fore, and yet again, a persistent bitter finish. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4. Antao Vaz - Paul Laureano Reserve 2005 Alentejano VR (£13.99)
Antao Vaz is the grape variety and here it was fermented in French oak. Fully developed, with oil and diesel notes. On the palate, there was minerally white grapefruit, developing into a lanolin waxy texture. It had weight, complexity and a lovely long finish, without ever being too oaky or alcoholic. Superbly balanced and recommended. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 2 votes)

Rosé

5. Vinha de Defesa Herdade do Esperao 2006 DOC Alentejo (£8.99)
Made by the highly-regarded Australian David Baverstock, from a blend of Syrah and Aragones (aka Tempranillo). A very dark-coloured Rosé, almost like a light red wine pr a Bordeaux Clairet. Full-bodied, soft and plummy, with sweet fruit, but it lacked zing, zip or freshness and was ultimately cloying. Far too old. (CHP 12, Bin Ends 4 votes)

Reds

6. Ramada 2006 VR Ribatejano (£3.99 Tesco/Co-op)
A blend of Trincadeira, Castelao and Aragones
A relatively simple quaffing style, with some lively and refreshing red cherry fruit, but no complexity. A great value party red. (A case of 6 from Tesco Online will set you back less than £22). (CHP 14, Bin Ends 2 votes)

7. Fontanario de Pegoes 2005 DOC Palmela (£7.49)
Grape variety - Castelao
Palmela is a small DOC within the coastal area around Lisbon. The soils are largely sandy and the principal red grape is Castelao. Up until this wine, I’ve never had anything of great interest or complexity from this area. It had about 8 months oak-ageing.
An excellent bouquet was followed by vibrant cherry fruit on the palate, underpinned by very subtle oaking. Refreshing, weighty, silky, complex and well-balanced. Most enjoyable and great value. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 9 votes).

8. Quinta dos Roques 2005 Dao (£9.49)
Oak-aged Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz (yet another name for Tempranillo).
Initially tight, grippy, tannic and a little backward, but it opened out to flavours of tar, blackberries and backed toast. Lovely promise. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 6 votes)

9. Duas Quintas 2006 Ramos Pinto Douro (£8.79)
A blend of Touriga Franca (40%), Tinta Roriz (40%) and Touriga Nacional (20%), sourced from Quinta Ervamoria (low altitiude and schist) and Quinta Bons Ares (higher and granite).

A sumptuous confection of blackberry, tobacco, tar, liquorice and soft tannins. Lush, soft, easy and smooth, a real crowd-pleaser, and well-made to boot. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 11 votes)

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In any tasting, there are bound to be a few disappointments, but I felt the wines were exceptionally well-chosen (primarily from Ken Sheather Wines, a small independent specialist - wine@sheathers.co.uk) . The overall consensus was that the reds were far more successful than the whites, and in terms of consistency, I’d tend to agree.

I still think that Vinho Verde can be a perfect summer tipple, and my wine of the night, in retrospect, was the Antao Vaz, which would give many an overpriced New World Chardonnay a run for its money.

Our thanks must go to Wine Educator Laura Clay for her excellent presentation.

COMING UP .....

Tuesday, 27th October 2009
Clive will be presenting a tasting of
Wines from the Languedoc
£10.00 per head entry

Tuesday, 24th November 2009
A Claret Tasting -
Comparing the Right and Left Banks,
Bordeaux Superieur to Cru Classé, St. Julien
£15 per head entry

Tuesday, 15th December 2009
French Dessert Wines
Looking at the contrasting styles of sweet wines,
Matched with blue cheese and mince pies
£15.00 per head entry

Friday, 29th January 2010
Bin Ends Annual Dinner
At Opus Restaurant,
Birmingham City Centre
Tickets available from Derek & Barbara Lamb.
Places are limited, so book early to avoid disappointment
£50 per head - includes three-course meal, 5 wines
and all service charges

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com