BIN ENDS WINE TASTING GROUP “Austrian Wine”
Tuesday, 30th June 2009
At St. Augustine’s Church Hall

Few European wine-producing countries have sunk so low as Austria, following the “anti-freeze scandal” in 1985. To give their wines more sweetness and body, a handful of Austrian producers added diethylene glycol to increase the value fourfold.

The scam was discovered by a tax official who became suspicious when one of the producers in question tried to recover the VAT element on the chemical. The incident, though, blighted the wine industry in Austria for the best part of a decade, but forced the authorities to implement the strictest quality controls in Europe. Today, Austrian wine is probably the safest to drink.

At one time, Austrian wines were looky-likey German Liebfraumilch styles, with quality only apparent for the ultra-sweet wines. All that has now changed, as Austria has now forged ahead producing top-quality dry whites and reds, too.

Austria will never be a big player, though. Annual production is about one-quarter of Germany’s, and about 75% is consumed by the domestic market. What it can offer, though, is quality and a more full-bodied style, closer to Alsace than Germany.

The wine regions are all located in Niederosterreich (Lower Austria) in a crescent-moon bordering the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Slovenia. The main names to remember are Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal, along the Danube to the north-west of Vienna, excelling in top-quality Rieslings and Gruners. Wien and Weinvertel are mainly for Gruner Veltliners, whereas Burgenland is making its mark as a red-wine region. As well as Pinot Noir, one should look out for such indigenous varieties such as Zweigelt, Blaufraukisch and St. Laurent.

To the south is the mountainous region of Styria, which is carving out a reputation for white grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The “jewel in the crown”, though, is Neusiederlersee, a shallow inland lake that produces the ideal conditions each autumn, for luscious botrytised sweeties.

The focus of tonight’s tasting was to highlight the main “indigenous” grape varieties and wine-growing regions, providing a brief overview of what Austria has to offer. Nine of the ten wines were sourced from Tanners, with the remaining red from Connollys.

The Wines

1. Gruner Veltliner 2001 Wachau Dme Wachau (£7.30 Tanners)
Wachau is a region noted for elegance and refinement. Domaine Wachau is a 600-member co-operative farming c420 hectares.

This was very fresh, almost green, with pear and greengage fruit. Very clean and well-made, I think the fruit was a touch unripe. Very pleasant.
(CHP 15, Bin Ends 3 votes)

2. Gruner Veltliner 2007 Kamptaler Terrassen Willi Brundlmayer (£11.90 Tanners)
Kamptal is recognised for producing the most concentrated Gruners. Brundlmeyer organically farm 75 ha, and are one of the leading Austrian producers.

Again familiar pear and greengage fruit, shot through with pepper and set in a rich oily texture. Complex, clean and showing real personality. Flawless.
(CHP 17+ Bin Ends 5 votes)

3. Gruner Veltliner 2006 Alte Reben Jurtschitsch Sonnhof (£14.80 Tanners)
A similar sized organic producer, also based in Kamptal. More mature and assertive, with a nose of celery and fennel. A little sweeter and made fuller with peppery pear and greengage flavours. Gauche, even overblown, the petticoat was showing - too alcoholic. Needs drinking up. (CHp 15+ Bin Ends 6 votes).

4. Traminer “Grassnitzberg” 2006 Polz Sudsteiermark (£12.20 Tanners)
Polz farm a 70 hectare estate in South Styria. Another big alcoholic wine, with floral, vegetal and lychee aromas and flavours. Hot and spicy, with a fierce finish. Would work with Chinese cuisine, but a style not really to my liking. (CHP 15, B in Ends 6 votes).

5. Riesling 2005 Langenloiser Steinmassel Brundlmayer (Kamptal) (£15.20 Tanners)
Full-bodied, yet elegant and refined with lime and sherbert aromas. There was lime on the palate, set in an oily richness. The diesel/petrol notes are just beginning to develop, but the flavours are complex. Lovely balance and length. Class in a glass. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 7 votes).


6. Riesling 2002 Zobinger Heiligenstein Brundlmayer (Tanners £26.95)
This is Kamptal’s most famous Riesling vineyard, planted on 250 million year old sandstone.

Gold-coloured, fully mature with a bouquet of dry honey, diesel and lime. On the palate there were additional minerally characters infused with oil. Exquisite, very fine, with an astonishing length of finish. (CHP 18+ Bin Ends 6 votes).

7. Zweigelt 2007 Esterhazy Burgenland (Tanners £7.30)
A pale, light-red, tasting of juicy spicy plums and red fruits. Austria’s answer to Beaujolais, an easy drinking quaffing style. No great personality or length. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 1 vote)

8. Blaufrankisch 2006 Gsellman Burgenland (£9.65 Connollys)
Darker and a little more concentrated with mulberry and loganberry flavours. Very soft tannins and a peppery finish. Pleasant, but overpriced. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends O votes).

9. St. Laurant 2007 Waldgarten Weinviertal Pfaffl (£12.30 Tanners)
A similar variety to Pinot Noir, but prone to rot.

Delicious bilberry and morello cherry fruit, liberally seasoned with spice and pepper. Lifted by a perfect spine of acidity to produce a very elegant style, with a longlasting finish. Pricey, but worth it. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 6 votes).

10. Beerenauslese Cuvee 2006 Kracher Neusiederlersee (£11.80 ½ btl)
(Welschriesling/Chardonnay with 5% Traminer)
A medium sweet style that was honeyed and flowery, with citrus, baked apple and ginger flavours. Well-balanced, with good acidity and freshness. Not in the least cloying, with a good finish. Just marred by a vegetal taint. Would be fazed by rich sweet desserts, but perfect with blue cheese.
(CHP 16+, Bin Ends 11 votes)


Summary

By and large, this was a very successful tasting, with a good spread of marks across the entire range, albeit with one or two notable exceptions. The whites fared better than the reds and, in particular, the Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch were thought to be lightweight and over-priced. I would, though, put in a word for the St. Laurent, which I found similar to, but better than a host of minor Red Burgundies and certainly better value.

The Gruners were well-received, but it’s important to acknowledge how quality improves with price. At the entry level, the character is not dissimilar to a Pinot Grigio, but becomes more Pinot Gris like as the price increases. These are fabulously food-friendly wines, and can work well with all manner of white meats, oily fishes and oriental cuisine. Worth bringing along as a “surprise” to a posh dinner party!

Also popular was the Traminer. A naturally low-acid grape, with high alcohol, this hung together well, and again is a great food match.

If I had a conclusion to make, both the Gruners and Traminer work best as young wines. The same could not be said, however, of the Riesling, which caused some fierce debate.

The characteristic of aged Riesling is its transformation from clean crisp apple and lime flavours, to the development of diesel and plasticine as it matures. Like Marmite, it’s a “love it or loathe it” flavour sensation, and it certainly divided opinion. For me, the 2002 Zobinger was an amazing expression, to others it was a stinky old garage. Chacun a son gout!

There was, however, almost universal approval for the sweet wine. Most loved the freshness that combined with the sweetness to prevent a sickly cloying sensation. I would still argue that it faces some tough competition from the Coteaux du Layon and Sauternes, but all in all, Austria is a country worth looking at!

COMING UP ......

No tasting in August ... while we’re all on holiday

So see you on

Tuesday, 29th September 2009
A Portuguese tasting
Presented by Wine Educator,
Laura Clay

Tuesday, 27th October 2009
I will be presenting a tasting of
Wines from the Languedoc

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com