BIN ENDS WINE-TASTING GROUP - Pinot-Philia - Tuesday, 28th April 2009 - Presented by Clive Platman
Unlike any other grape I can think of, Pinot Noir has a cult following. Thin-skinned, sensitive and fickle, at its best it can reach the glorious heights of sensuality that no other variety can come close to. It does, however, divide opinion into the “love-it-or-loathe-it” category.
The red grape of Burgundy was developed by the monks, and has spread across Central and Eastern Europe into Alsace, Germany, Austria, Northern Italy, Roumania and even as far afield as Georgia, without ever challenging the hegemony of the true Burgundian style. Nevertheless, it is in the New World that the grape now holds the greatest fascination, as winemakers seek the “new Holy Grail”.
Unlike its French counterparts, such as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir cannot be planted just anywhere. If it’s too hot, you end up with jam, and if too cold, just a thin streak of acidity. In the New World, the search is on for just the right terroir.
With its temperate climate, New Zealand is the country showing the most potential. The three main regions are Martinborough (south tip of North Island), Marlborough (northern tip of South Island) and now the increasingly promising Central Otago (south-eastern corner of South Island) which seems to have cracked it.
In Australia, the most promising regions are cool-climate Victoria (Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley and Geelong), and Tasmania, where the grape has really taken on a different style. California has also taken the grape to heart, and some of the best versions are from Sonoma (Russian River), Carneros and Sonoma Coast. More interesting still are those from Oregon, to the north.
Chile is also trying its hand with plantings in the Casablanca Valley, Leyda and Bio-Bio, again all regarded as cool-climate. South Africa, too, has a few top producers in the Western Cape.
The purpose of tonight’s tasting was to explore a number of different styles from producers across the globe with, of course, a traditional Burgundy thrown in for good measure.
The Wines
1. De Bortoli Windy Peak 2008 Victoria (£7.99 Sainsburys)
Very juicy, with high acidity showing cherry-fruit, and a streak of lemon set in a smooth, creamy texture. The finish was a bit short, but good entry-level stuff. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)
2. Ona Anakena Pinot Noir 2007 Casablanca Valley (£8.99 Oddbins)
Tasting of pomegranates, this was all over the place. Big, over-alcoholic and unbalanced, leaving a fierce burning sensation. Pinot Noir, but not as we know it. (CHP 12, Bin Ends 2 votes).
3. Esterhazy Pinot Noir 2007 Burgenland Austria (£10.60 Tanners)
Good balance, with clean and focussed cherry fruit, but harsh and peppery, with none of the silky texture associated with good Pinot Noir. Disappointing. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)
4. Mercurey 1er Cru Champs-Martin Domaine Adelie Albert Bichot 2006 (rrp £15)
Yardstick Burgundy from the Cote Chalonnaise, just south of the Cote d’Or. There was good perfume and a pleasing array of raspberry and cherry fruit, a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of black pepper. The finish was smooth, and generally showed well. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 8 votes)
5. Neudorf Pinot Noir 2004 Nelson NZ (Wine Society £15.00)
A bottle with a bit more maturity, with notes of game, but generally marred by sulphur. There was some cherry fruit, with a little spice and, although smooth-textured, it was a tad too hot, though overall well-balanced. Let down by the sulphur. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)
6. Auntsfield Estate 2006 Marlborough NZ (Wine Society £15.00)
Big, mouthfilling, juicy, loaded with spicy cherry and raspberry fruit. Very easy and appealing, but again marred by a dose of sulphur. Better than the Neudorf, though, and future vintages look very promising. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 15 votes)
7. La Crema Pinot Noir 2006 Sonoma Coast (Waitrose £15.99)
Again, big and mouthfilling, with raspberry and cream, underpinned by caramel. Polished, full and rich, probably made in a more crowd-pleasing style, with generous oak. Held its own.
(CHP 15+, Bin Ends 3 votes).
8. Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak 2007 Walker Bay (Tanners £17.90)
From one of the two top Pinot Noir producers in South Africa (the other being Hamilton Russell). Youthful, vibrant, full and rich, this tasted of spicy cherries. Still fresh, there was real dimension and depth, enveloped by a silky mouthfeel, followed by a long length of finish. Very classy and will improve over the next two years. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 13 votes)
9. Pinot by Farr 2005 Geelong Victoria (Tanners £18.95)
With a little more bottle-age, this showed beautiful maturity, with smooth silky cherry fruit, enlivened with spicy pepper. The texture was smooth and creamy, again showing a lovely length of finish.
CHP 18, Bin Ends 14 votes).
*******
As a varietal, Pinot Noir can and does divide opinion, as evidenced by tonight’s showing It’s not a grape with any great structure or tannin and, while the general characteristics had similarities, it is significantly influenced by terroir. There were big stylistic differences between the various samples, certainly compared to our yardstick Burgundy.
The evening was only a “qualified” success, as the general consensus was that PN is not terribly exciting at entry-level, but then that’s also true of red Burgundy. Nevertheless, once the price exceeded £15, the quality clearly kicked in, and the marginal Bin Ends preference was for the New Zealander, Auntsfield.
My own view, for what it’s worth, was that, apart from the Mercurey, Galpin Peak and Pinot by Farr, the wines lacked complexity and dimension. This may, in part, be explained by relatively recent plantings and young vines, as the quest for “the grail” continues. I was, though, pleased by the general level of consistency (above the £15 mark), which is not altogether apparent with traditional Burgundy.
Tuesday, 2nd June (one week later than usual because of my holiday and Bank Holiday)
BOUTIQUE AUSTRALIAN WINES
Our May tasting is one week late this year, but we are to be treated to a selection of top-class wines from Down Under, by elite importers based in Hereford, “The Secret Vine”. (£10 per head)
Tuesday, 30th June (two tastings in a month! Who said you can’t have too much of a good thing!)
A TASTE OF AUSTRIA
This time it’s personal. I’m a great admirer of both red and white Austrian wines, and I’d like you all to share my passion. A long time in the making (I wanted to put this on last year), there dwill be plenty of treats and surprises in store. (entry £10 per head)
FRIDAY, 10th July 2009
BIN ENDS ANNUAL BARBECUE
Roll up, roll up for an end-of-term knees up at Derek and Barbara Lamb’s home in Quinton. There’ll be plenty of great nosh (veggies will be catered for) and more than enough wine for everyone, all for a ridiculously reasonable £15 per head. Tickets will be available from Margaret Hale (at tastings or phone 0121 454 4005, e.mail: margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk)
THERE WILL BE NO “BIN ENDS” TASTING IN AUGUST as we’ll all be on our hols ...
But over the holidays, please sharpen your taste-buds for ...
Tuesday, 22nd September 2009
Once again, we welcome Wine Educator Laura Clay who will be bringing along a selection of Portuguese wines for us to sample and talk about. (£10 per head)
Don’t forget to book your place/s for the tastings in the usual way, via: www.birminghamplus.com/binends, and follow the links ....
Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com
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