BIN ENDS WINE-TASTING GROUP
“Northern Lights & Southern Belles”
An Exploration of the Red Rhone AOCs
Tuesday, 16th December 2008
The Rhone Valley has always provided a reliable source of reasonably priced big-hearted reds. Over 80% of production is labelled simply “Cotes du Rhone”, but the purpose of the evening was to explore other appellations within the region as a whole.
In actual fact, the Rhone is two distinct regions. The largest by far, accounting for around 90% of production is the Southern Rhone, which extends over a wide area, from Montelimar to Avignon. The smaller, but more prized region, is the Northern Rhone, which stretches in a narrow band northward, from Valence to Vienne.
The main difference is, of course terroir. In the North, the climate is continental, with hot, dry summers and cold winters. The best soils are on steep-sided granite slopes, sheltered from the ferocious Mistral. Here, the reds all achieve “Cru” or superior status, and are made exclusively from 100% Syrah (with the exception of Cote Rotie, which permits the addition of up to 20% white Viognier, but in practice, the production is less than 10% and nearer 5%).
The Southern Rhone is markedly different. For a start, the climate is Mediterranean, so the winters are milder and wetter, and the summer is hotter and more prone to storms. The soil composition is more varied, and the slopes more shallow. Here, the major grape variety is Grenache which, in the case of Chateauneuf du Pape may be a blend of up to 13 other varieties.
Grenache is an extremely vigorous and productive variety, that requires strict yield control to produce quality wine. It provides body and alcohol, but jammy fruit if badly made.
Syrah, by contrast, is leaner and more structured, typified by blackberry and spice characters. The other significant red varieties are Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault. The last two are generally regarded as ugly ducklings, and these days, Cinsault is generally used for the increasingly popular Roses.
THE WINES
I. SOUTHERN RHONE
a) Cotes du Rhone
The Cotes du Rhone comprise over 40,000 hectares, and some 6000 winemakers. The blends generally include Grenache.
1. Domaine de Pergault “Brezeme” 2004 (c£6.50 Wine Society)
This was rather good. There was juicy blueberry fruit, with a bouquet of violets, enlivened with spice and pepper. It had a pleasing dry finish, and was better than “highly” quaffable”. Very moreish. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 4 votes).
b) Cotes du Rhone Villages
The area under the “villages” AOC is dramatically reduced to 4500 hectares, with around a further 5000 hectares reserved for “named” villages (see below). Grenache must form a 50% maximum and a 20% minimum for Syrah/Mourvedre, and a 20% maximum for the others.
2. Domaine des Escaravailles “Les Hauts Granges” (£6.50 Wine Society)
This was a whopper, coming in at a massive 15%. Enormously weighty, it still maintained full-on black fruit, with a hint of black chocolate. Fuller, richer and spicier, with the heat of the alcohol just peeking through. Not quite my style. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 1 vote).
c) Cotes du Rhone Villages
A chance to compare the more classic and forward 2004 vintage against the more backward, but highly regarded 2005.
3. Tardieu et Laurent “Baumelles” 2005 (c£7.00 Auchan St. Omer)
Firmer and more closed, but contained juicy black cherry fruit, with hints of chocolate. Much better balanced (CHP 17, Bin Ends 6 votes).
d) Vinsobres
A lesser Cotes du Rhone “Village” with yields not exceeding 42 hl/ha, and 50% of the required blend is Grenache.
4. Domaine Jaume “Preference” 2004
This lacked primary fruit ,and was quite awkward. In fact, I believe this was a classic case of volatile acidity. This results from excessive levels of acetic acid, and is generally associated with poor hygiene or high temperatures that allow bacteria to develop. A tell-tale sign is nail-varnish, glue or even vinegar smells, but it generally gives a sour or burning sensation.
(CHP 12, Bin Ends 0 votes)
e) Gigondas
Within the Southern Rhone, Gigondas is second only to Chateauneuf du Pape, in terms of status, and is acknowledged as a “cru”. The area under cultivation is 1230 ha, with a basic yield of 35 hl/ha.
The AOC allows up to a maximum of 80% Grenache and a minimum of 15% Syrah or Mourvedre. Other varieties should not exceed 10% with the exception of Carignan.
5. Cros de la Mure 2004 (£13, Wine Society)
Violets, black cherry and spice wrapped up in a smooth velvet texture, with a gentle kiss of oak. Sweet, ripe and mouthfilling, evolving to a gentle chocolate finish. Outstanding.
(CHP 18, Bin Ends 6 votes)
f) Chateauneuf du Pape
The most famous Cru of the Southern Rhone needs no introduction. It covers an area of 3150 hectares, with a basic yield of 35 hl/ha. 13 varieties are traditionally permitted, but only Beaucastel uses them all. It’s an AOC that trades very much on its reputation, and more often than not, it can be expensive and disappointing.
6. Patric Presec “Pierres Dorees” 2004 (£13.95 Wine Society)
Altogether bigger and more alcoholic than the Gigondas, but not as well balanced. Black-cherry fruit was followed by chocolate, but the mouthfeel was hot. I don’t think this will improve with age. (CHp 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)
II. NORTHERN RHONE
All the main AOCs of the Northern Rhone are regarded as “cru”. They do have a reputation of being rather austere, particularly Cornas and Hermitage, but the Crozes-Hermitage and St. Joseph, the lesser “crus” should be approachable after 4 years.
a) Crozes-Hermitage
The area under cultivation is less than 1300 hectares and the basic yield is 45 hl/ha. The 2004 vintage is regarded as a classical vintage, in terms of structure, whereas the 2005 vintage is exceptional.
7. Domaine des Remizieres 2004 (c£12 Wine Society)
Highly rated Crozes producers. Stinky, burnt and rubbery, but also severely cork-tainted. (No marks for this faulty bottle).
8. J. L. Colombo “Les Gravieres” 2005 (Waitrose £12)
JLC is a leading negociant of the Northern Rhone and much sought-after. This example was sourced from Waitrose, who are now on the 2006 vintage.
Very closed and tightknit. Structured, with firm tannins, yielding some spicy blackberry fruit with moderate length. Clean and well made, just needs time. To be enjoyed from 2011 onwards.
(CHP 15 (now), 17.5 in 2011), Bin Ends 0 votes)
b. St. Joseph
Area under cultivation around 900 hectares, with a basic yield of 40 hl/ha. The best wines are produced on the slopes.
9. Domaine Courbis “Les Royes” 2004 (c£16 Wine Society)
A well respected St. Joseph producer, alas this was yet another out-of-condition bottle. The cork reeked and, although there was no apparent taint, the wine was raisiny and volatile. Poor
(CHP 12, Bin Ends 0 votes)
c) Cornas
Cornas is a tiny area, comprising just 90 hectares with a basic yield of 40 hl/ha. They have a reputation for being rather tough and austere, and require long ageing, possibly 8-10 years.
10. Dumien-Serette “Patou” 2004 Cornas (c£16 Wine Society)
This was dirty, reeking of sulphur. There was a firm structure and tannins, but the flavour was of stale cheese-and-onion crisps. Seriously disappointing (CHP 12, Bin Ends 0 votes)
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The samples for the tasting were based on two mixed “lucky-dip” 6-bottle cases purchased from The Wine Society. The first, Southern Belles, was from the Southern Rhone and the second, Northern Lights from the North. All wines were from the 2004 vintage, which is generally perceived as a good year.
The results were a mixed bag. The Southern Rhones performed reasonably well, with three out of the six outstanding. In particular, the entry wine, Dme de Pergault was everything you would want out of a winter red; easy-drinking, yet with just enough complexity to keep it interesting to the bottom of the bottle.
More serious was the Tardieu et Laurent, from a firm of top negociants, and of course, the Cros de la Mure Gigondas shows where the value lies in the Southern Rhone in terms of fine wine, compared to the more popular and better known Chateauneuf du Pape.
Of course, there were disappointments. The Escaravailles took itself too seriously, and was monstrous in terms of weight and alcohol, and the Jaume Vinsobres had a serious problem of volatile acidity. Surprising, as the basic Jaume Cotes du Rhone is generally delicious. As for the Chateauneuf du Pape, my advice is to stick with a top producer and be prepared to pay over the odds. (The best example I’ve tasted recently is “Telegramme” 2006 by Brunier et Fils (£16.20, Tanners), the second wine of Vieux Telegraphe).
With regard to the Northern Rhones, I had had doubts as to how well they would show, as they take much longer to mature. The Southern Rhones were always destined to show better, because they were going to be at their peak. Nonetheless, the 2004 Crozes, Remizieres should have been good, but was marred by horrendous cork-taint.
I still maintain that the 2005 Crozes by Colombo is a good wine, but too young and going through its “dumb” phase, but the Courbis St. Joseph should also be ready. Although the cork was decidedly dodgy, I thought I detected other problems and the wine appeared to be cracking up. Finally, Cornas can be a creature for the long-haul, but no-one could have anticipated such high sulphur levels.
Rest assured, I have written to the Wine Society, expressing my concerns regarding the Northern Rhone bottles, and will let you know their response in due course. In the meantime, the best advice is to stick to the Southern Rhone, where, if you avoid AOC reputations and rely on good producers, you can always find something that gives good value.
Seasonal Greetings to one and all - see you in 2009!
COMING UP ....
Saturday, 17th January 2008
Bin Ends Annual Fine Wine Dinner
To be held at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham City Centre
TICKETS NOW ALL SOLD OUT
Tuesday, 24th February 2009
Affordable Bordeaux
A presentation by Wine Educator, Laura Clay
(£10 per head - subject to attendance)
Tuesday, 31st March 2008
Rioja: Understanding the Label,
Looking at the different terms and styles,
From “High Expression” to “Gran Reserva”
(£10 per head - subject to attendance)
Tuesday, 28th April 2009
Pinot-philia - a Celebration of Pinot Noir
From around the world
(£10 per head - subject to attendance)
PS: Unfortunately, attendances have dropped significantly over the last 3-4 months, so to keep the group viable and the tastings at £10 per head, we need at least 14 or 15 people per tasting. If you know of anyone who might be interested in joining the group, please don’t hesitate to bring them along to any of the tastings.
Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com
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