BIN ENDS WINE-TASTING GROUP
Lebanese Fine Wines
Tuesday, 25th October 2008
Presented by Elias & Lucy Khoneizer

Lebanese wines can be traced back to the origins of winemaking, around 8000 BC, but it was under the Phoenicians between 1000-300 BC that wine was produced for export across the Mediterranean. Even into the Middle Ages, the wines were traded by Venetians, but once Lebanon was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire in 1517, wine-making was forbidden, except for religious purposes.

The winemaking tradition was revived in the 19th century by Jesuit missionaries at Ksara, who introduced new vines and methods based on the Franco-Algerian model. Very much part of the French sphere of influence, a young military engineer, Francois-Eugene Brun was hired to construct the main route between Beirut and Damascus. During the course of the project, he founded, in 1868, Lebanon’s first commercial cellars, under the name Domaine des Tourelles, producing wine, spirits and the locally popular Arak, an aniseed-flavoured brandy.

Between the wars, wine-making thrived under French administration and continued to do so until post-war independence, when Lebanon created a reputation as a cosmopolitan and financial hub. All this came to a shuddering halt in 1975, when a bitter civil war erupted lasting for 15 years.

It was a difficult time for wine-making, and during this period, only Chateau Musar was able to maintain production and continue to export.

The return to peace in the 1990s has now provided new opportunities, in particular to a new generation, inspired by the success of New World wines.

The main area of production is along the Bekaa Valley, which lies to the east of the country and runs north to south, parallel to the Syrian border. The valley lies between the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon (Syria) mountain ranges, at an altitude of around 1000 metres.

There is snow in the mountains in winter, and the meltwaters can provide a source of irrigation if required. Generally, the climate is ideal, with hot dry summers but enough rainfall over the winter months. Critically, for the production of good quality grapes, there are big differentials between day and night temperatures, due to the relatively high altitude.

The French influence is still apparent, by the type of varieties that are planted. Amongst the most popular are Cinsault, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Grenache and Syrah. Though predominantly red wine varieties, a little white is made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat.

Lebanon’s most celebrated wine still remains Chateau Musar, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, fleshed out with Cinsault and Carignan. It almost has a cult following, but many critics find it has an inherent problem with volatile acidity.

Lebanon’s biggest producer, though, is Chateau Ksara, now responsible for around one-third of all wine sold in Lebanon. The second largest is Chateau Kefraya,founded in 1979 by the Lebanese Ghosn brothers and a French consortium from Bordeaux and Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and is currently achieving critical acclaim.

Lucy and Elias Khoneizer are an Anglo-Lebanese husband-and-wife team who are keen to capitalise on the recent improvements in the Lebanon, and have focussed their efforts on two wineries, hitherto unknown in the UK. The first is Domaine des Tourelles, which has the distinction of being Lebanon’s oldest commercial winery, and the second is Clos de Cana, whose first release was as recent as 2001.

Clos de Cana lies in the heart of Mount Lebanon and is owned by a dentist with an ambition to encourage locals to return to their villages and resume tending their vineyards. The wines are therefore made from their own vineyards and bought-in fruit.

The Wines

1. Rouge de Cana 2003 (£8.50)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, that sees no oak. It has a floral, almost rose-petal bouquet, with subtle and reserved fruit flavours. Spicy and peppery, there are low tannins with a pleasing mouthfeel and balance. Perhaps lacking a touch of more depth and primary fruit. (CHP 15 Bin Ends 5 votes).

2. Jars of Cana 2002 (£14.00)
A blend of Petit Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Mourvedre, and again unoaked. Again, floral violets and rose-petal bouquet, giving way to sweet black fruit, with a touch of tar. Spicy and peppery, there was some acidity, with a silky texture. Overall, there was a pleasing length of finish. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

3. Cuvee Lamartine 2002 (£12)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Merlot, aged in used American vats for 12 months. There were hints of vanilla, with a smooth silky texture, but not much fruit or personality. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes).

4. Chateau de Cana 2001 (£15.20)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot, aged for one year in French oak. This had strong blackberry and cassis characters, enlivened by spice and pepper. It was altogether fuller flavoured, with a strong personality. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 5 votes)

5. Domaine des Tourelles Red 2005 (£10.20)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with distinctive morello cherry flavours. It had fine structure, with ripe tannins and length (CHP 16+. Bin Ends 4 votes).

6. Marquis des Beys Grande Cuvee 2003 (£21.10)
The flagship wine of Domaine des Tourelles, it’s a 60:40 Cabernet/Syrah blend, aged in French and American oak for 2 years. Marked by chewy tobacco flavours, black fruit and ripe silky tannins. Sensuous, complex and long-lasting. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 6 votes)

Very much a new venture, Lucy and Elias are an enthusiastic young couple, hoping to popularise Lebanese wine. For us, too, it was a real opportunity to taste wine “off the beaten track” so to speak.

The general verdict was that the wines were of a pleasing quality, and we were pleased to see that, although modern winemaking techniques were being employed, the winemakers were not following the typical New World fruit-bomb path. Instead, the wines showed some Old World charm and restraint, much more in keeping with their French heritage. If there was one criticism, it was that the wines were not competitive enough in terms of pricing.

Our thanks to Lucy and Elias for a fascinating tasting.

Coming Up ....

Tuesday, 16th December 2008
Southern Belles v Northern Lights. It’s been several years since we last
visited the Rhone Valley, and this is a great opportunity to explore the classic
2004 vintage, as well as a host of different AOCs from both the
Northern and Southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf du Pape,
Gigondas and Cornas.
Entry: £15 per head

Saturday, 17th January 2009
Bin Ends Annual Fine Wine Dinner
To be held at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham City Centre
Price: £50 per head (6 wines, 3-course dinner and service included)
Due to popular demand, the event is nearly sold out, but there are
a few tickets remaining.
For further enquiries, please contact Margaret Hale
(margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk) or telephone 0121.454.4005
For those of you who have already booked, but not paid,
Please forward your payments to Margaret as soon as possible please.

Tuesday, 24th February 2009
Affordable Bordeaux
Local Wine Educator, Laura Clay, will be presenting a flight
of affordable Bordeaux wines
£10 per head

Tuesday 31st March 2009
Rioja Old & New
£10 per head

Tuesday 28th April 2009
Pinot-philia
A celebration of Pinot Noir from Around the World
£10 per head

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com