The Wine Society believes that Portuguese wines deserve a wider audience, and so do I. The country can offer a wealth of rich and distinctive flavours, from a host of indigenous grape varieties that are simply unique.

Since joining the European Union, the infrastructure of the country has been transformed, and so has the wine industry. The introduction of modern technology and know-how has permitted the production of fruit-filled high-quality reds and whites, over little more than a generation.

The reputation for flabby, oxidised whites and chewy leathery reds is now a thing of the past. Tonight we were given a great opportunity to explore a selection of modern reds, illustrating the main regions and grape varieties to look out for. All wines were sourced from the Wine society, who have just won Portugal’s “National Retailer Award 2008”.

The Wines

1. Quinta do Lagoalva 2005 Ribatejo (£5.50)
Lying inland from Lisbon, this is a region known for good everyday drinking. Made from Castelao and Touriga grapes, the wine is allowed to mature in used Portuguese and French oak barrels. It was very juicy with brambly red fruits and spice. No great finish, but not bad everyday drinking. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

2. Monte Velho Tinto 2007 Herdade do Esporao Alentejo (£5.95)
Alentejo is a large inland region, east of Lisbon, with a dry and sun-soaked climate. Vines compete with cork forests and cereals, and the local delicacy is “black pig”. Once best known for white wine, it has now carved out a reputation for New World style, fruit-filled reds. The Esporao estate’s production is supervised by Australian winemaker David Baverstock, and is regarded as one of the leading Alentejo producers.

This entry level red is made from Trincadeira, Aragones (Tempranillo) and Castelao, fermented in stainless steel and matured in oak casks.

Quite herby, with sour and black cherry fruit, supported with soft spice. A very easy-drinking style. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 2 votes)

3. Palmela Particular Alianca 2005 (£6.25)
South of Libson, this region has free-draining sandy soils, and relies heavily on the Castelao grape. From Castelao, this wine is aged in 300-litre French and American casks for 9 months. It’s slightly smoky, with sour-cherry and raspberry fruit. Fresh and light-textured, with pleasing balance and structure. (CHP 15+, Bin Ends 2 votes).

4. Crasto 2007 Douro (£7.25)
The Douro is Portugal’s best-known wine region, with a rich history of port production, but the term Douro itself is reserved exclusively for table-wine. The reds tend to reflect the leading port varieties, such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Cao (Red Dog) and Tinta Barroca.

Crasto are leading pioneers of new-wave table wines, and this is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tourigas Nacional, and Franca. This had vibrant juicy sweet cherry fruit, with spice and firm tannins. Youthful and vigorous, it lacked subtlety and nuance. Could possibly improve if tempered with age. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 2 votes).

5. Touriga Nacional 2006 Almeida Garrett Beira Interior (£7.50)
To the east of Barraida and Dao, the region is known as the fruit-basket of Portugal. This presents a good introduction to Portugal’s premium variety.

This had juicy blackberry fruit, seasoned with cloves. Ruffled tannins developed on the mid-palate, with a good follow-through and smooth length of finish (CHP 16, Bin Ends 8 votes)

6. Callabriga Dao 2004 Sogrape (£8.50)
The Dao, a once great region living on its reputation, has been transformed and now has the potential to rival the Douro for Portugal’s finest reds. The main red varieties are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro.

Sogrape, the parent company of Mateus Rose, have invested heavily in the region, and have recently developed the brand-name Callabriga, representing a selection of their finest estates in Douro, Dao and Alentejo.

There was smoky juicy bramble and sour-cherry fruit, soft tannins and just a hint of bitterness on the chocolate finish. Robust and full-bodied, it was given vibrancy by a lovely streak of acidity. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 9 votes).

7. Preto Branco Quinta do Encontro 2004 Barraida (£9.95)
Barraida is a coastal area just to the south of Oporto, dominated by the capricious Baga grape. Our example was a blend of Baga, Touriga Nacional and a little white Bical for good measure. Full-bodied, this had spicy black-cherry fruit, Silky smooth and soft, this had an easy mouthfeel, but a touch over-alcoholic maybe, just losing balance. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

8. Pedra Basta Quinta do Centro 2006 Alentejo (£10.50)
This wine is the second release of the Portuguese wine-writing specialist Richard Mayson. It’s a blend of Trincadeira Preta, Aragones, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. Should have been a gorgeous ripe satisfying red, but was ruined by a high dose of sulphur, destroying the fruit and giving off flavours of burnt match-sticks. (CHp 13, Bin Ends 0 votes)

9. Quinta do Ponte Pedrinha 2001 Reserva Dao (£10.95)
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Alfrocheiro Preta, with wine-making overseen by the legendary Joao Portugal Ramos, from Alentejo. This had black-cherry and fruitcake flavours, seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon. Fresh tasting, with soft tannins, it showed a beautiful structure and a lovely integration. The star of the show, and the pick of the night. (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 13 votes)

10. Passadouro Tinto 2004 Douro (£11.95)
A fine Douro from an 18-hectare estate owned by the Bohrmann family. Opaque dark colour, with a typical bouquet of violets. On the palate, there was juicy blackberry fruit, with soft earthy tannins. It had a beautiful texture and length, and is destined for great things. Still a little backward. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 3 votes).

This was an interesting set of wines with similar characteristics, yet each showing a regional identity. Apart from one disappointment, the Pedra Basta, the wines were reasonably well received, with universal acclaim for the Quinta do Ponte Pedrinha Dao, our only example of a fully mature wine.

Also showing well were the Almeida Garrett and the Callabriga Dao, which only serves to demonstrate that the imbiber will be well rewarded by spending a few pounds extra.

Coming Up ....

Tuesday, 28th October 2008
Ports for Christmas
Staying in Portugal, this is a great opportunity to explore the various Port styles, and
Make your selection for the winter festivities.
(£15.00 per head entry)

Tuesday, 25th November 2008
Fine Wines from The Lebanon.
The UK importers for leading Lebanese wineries will offer us a
Rare chance to sample a fascinating range of wines
(£10 per head entry)

Tuesday, 16th December 2008
A great opportunity to explore the hierarchy of the great
Rhone Reds, contrasting the AOCs of the North and South, such as
Chateauneuf du Pape and Crozes-Hermitage. Nibbles will be provided.
(£15 per head entry)

Saturday, 17th January 2008
Bin Ends Annual Fine Wine Dinner
To be held at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham City Centre
Price: £50 per head (5 wines, 3-course dinner and service included)
Tickets will be on sale from next meeting (October)
Book your tickets through Margaret Hale
(margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk) or telephone 0121.454.4005

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com