There is no denying the popularity of sparkling wine, and Champagne still holds its place as the supreme expression. In tonight’s tasting, we attempted to sort the wheat from the chaff. Amongst 11 wines, we sampled 8 different Champagne styles and, for good measure, 3 sparkling wines. Could we spot the difference?

The Champagnes offered a chance to compare supermarket own-labels, growers, popular “house” brands and a top producer. The styles, too, varied with samples of Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, classic non-vintage (multi-vintage) blends and, last but not least, a couple of Roses. By way of comparison, the sparklers were made using the “Methode Champenoise” or, more correctly, “Methode Traditionelle”.

To avoid prejudice, all wines were served blind, and tasted in a walk-round format.

1. Seyssel Brut Maison Mollex (c£5 purchased at property)
A “methode traditionelle” sparkler from the French Alps in Savoie, using the Altesse grape. I found it minerally, yeasty, lean and spicy, with a full dry finish, and quite liked its elegance. Agreed it wasn’t great, but no-one shared my opinion. (CHP 14).

2. Waitrose Blanc de Blancs Brut NV (£18.99)
Produced for Waitrose by P & C Heidsieck, this cuvee has garnered a number of plaudits. A pure expression of the finesse, elegance and lightness of Chardonnay, this had citrus and pineapple fruit, with minerals and biscuit characters. Lively and fresh, it was let down by a persistent, unpleasant bitter note on the finish.

3. Secondé-Collard Blanc de Noirs Brut NV (Bordeaux Undiscovered c£17)
Whilst a “Blanc de Blancs” Champagne will be exclusively Chardonnay, a Blanc de Noirs can be a combination of the two black varieties, Pinots Meunier and Noir. Chardonnay gives structure and finesse, whereas Pinot Noir provides richness and power. Pinot Meunier, the least well-regarded, offers red fruits and is faster maturing. It is therefore used as the backbone of cheaper supermarket blends.

Secondé-Collard are growers in Bouzy, on the south-east corner of the Montagne de Reims, which is famous for Pinot Noir. This cuvee is from a Grand Cru vineyard, meaning it is 100% Pinot Noir, as no Pinot Meunier vineyards qualify for Grand Cru status.

As expected, this was full and rich, but had an off-putting sulphurous note. Nevertheless, there was a minerally fresh quality as the wine broadened on the palate to give raspberry and chocolate flavours. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 2 votes)

4. Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top (£23 Tesco, Sainsbury & Majestic)
Produced by Vranken, this is an all-conquering popular brand, often sold at discount. It was fresh and clean, with lemon sherbet fruit, underpinned with some butter and brioche. The disappointment was a nasty bitter finish, which left me cold. Nevertheless, it was, by general consensus, the third choice of the night. (CHP 13, Bin Ends 7 votes)

5. Gosset Grand Reserve Brut NV (Berry Brothers & Rudd £37)
Gosset, in Ay, are the oldest Champagne house, founded in 1589. They own no vineyards, but still create a “luxury” brand, highly regarded by connoisseurs.

In our sample, there were minerals, citrus and spice, with butter developing into a chocolate finish. It was very complex, subtle, almost understated , but very classy. Universally acclaimed as superb. (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 14 votes)

6. Michel Gonet Chardonnay Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2002 (c£20)
Michel Gonet is a major grower in the Avize commune of the Cote de Blancs. I tasted a range of his wines at his property, and remained unimpressed. This “millesime” is from a single vintage only, without the addition of any reserves from previous vintages.

The appearance was altogether deeper, denser and more yellow, and this had the taste and feel of an older Champagne. Its predominant flavours were mushrooms, toast and nuts, but the style was quite oxidative, with a marked bitter finish. A poor effort. (CHP 11).

7. Perrier-Jouet Brut Millesime 1998 (c£40 Majestic
Most Champagne connoisseurs will tell you that the “best value” Champagnes (if there is such a thing) are the “millesimes”, the single vintage wines. They’re usually around £10 a bottle more expensive than the NV, but generally deliver more complexity and, in my opinion offer much better value than the luxury “Prestige” cuvées at between 2 and 3 times the price.

The P-J 1998 was full and fresh, with lemon citrus and minerals, given a coating of butter, and developing a biscuit finish. Very accessible and easy-drinking, this lacked the intense complexity of the Gosset, though it is a vast improvement on the P-J Brut NV (previously tasted). That said, it’s not worth the asking price. Nevertheless, well-liked. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 9 votes).

The Roses – Roses can be made by blending a little red wine (between 10 and 20 per cent) or by bleeding (“saigné”), allowing skin contact with the juice.

8. Codorniu Pinot Noir Brut Cava (£8.99 Majestic/Sainsbury)
Very cheesy and sulphury, quite acidic, with little or no fruit. Rather horrid. (CHP 10).

9. The Society’s Rosé Champagne NV (£27 Wine Society)
A pink blend, again produced by Alfred Gratien. My first sip from the top of the bottle was sensational, with minerally raspberry fruit, broadening out to a very long chocolate finish. I thought this was excellent …. but after a few minutes, tasters began to pick up flat, cardboard notes, and the wine lost its sparkle and zip. I think it was a classic of minor cork taint, which developed following contact with air. (CHP 18 (on initial impression), Bin Ends 3)

10. Perrier-Jouet Blason Rose NV (£34.99 Majestic)
I found this lacked focus and fruit, finishing on a rather bitter note. Generally mediocre and outrageously priced. Nevertheless, popular with Bin Enders! (CHP 13, Bin Ends 6)

11. Chateau de Putille Cremant de Loire Rose NV (c£7)
Cheese-and-onion aromas suggested sulphur. On the palate it was very full, soft and rich, with broad coarse flavours, with noticeable sweetness on the finish. Opinion divided, I found it clumsy, but it has a firm fan base. (CHP 13, Bin Ends 5).
Summary
It’s always fun to taste the wines blind, and it was very reassuring to have my personal favourite, the Gosset Grande Reserve unanimously endorsed. It’s a pity that the Society’s Rose was slightly corked, as I am convinced it, too, would have been fully appreciated – but that’s life.
The tasting also demonstrated that the more you pay, the better the quality. The sparkling wines fared less well against the Champagnes, but value, though, was inconsistent.

And some more dates for your diaries ….

Friday, 18th July 2008
Bin Ends Summer Barbecue
A change of venue this year, for a very social evening.
Please contact Derek & Barbara Lamb on
0121 421 4204 or 07831 413677 (& HYPERLINK "mailto:deklamb@lineone.net" deklamb@lineone.net)
(£15.00 per head for loads of great food and fab wine)

Tuesday, 19th August 2008 (one week earlier than usual because of Bank Hol)
“What I like to Drink”
It’s your turn to impress your fellow members with a bottle of your own choice
Admission: £5 per head if you bring a bottle, £10 if you don’t

Tuesday, 30th September 2008
Austrian Wine
A chance to explore a fascinating selection of red and white wines, from this seriously under-rated wine-producing nation.

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com