The Wines of Henry Laithwaite
Tuesday, 27th May 2008

The Background

Henry Laithwaite is a winemaker specialising in small-volume premium wine from Australia and France. His family has been in the wine business for over 40 years, being the son of the more illustrious Tony, the founder of the UK’s largest mail-order wine business, trading under such names as Laithwaites’s and the Sunday Times Wine Club, amongst others.

It is not Henry’s intention, however, to follow in his father’s footsteps, but to strike out on his own. He is now realising that ambition by becoming a winemaker in his own right.

In his formative years, Henry helped out at his father’s cellar in Bordeaux, and later went to work at a co-operative in Ardeche. It was there he was forced to speak French as no-one else spoke English, and where he learnt to appreciate French culture.

Nevertheless, his real winemaking apprenticeship was “Down Under”, where he learnt his winemaking skills under the tutelage of Michael Fragos and his team at Tatachilla in McLaren Vale. He subsequently teamed up with 10 or 15 aspiring winemakers to set up a Wine Studio in a restaurant formerly known as Redheads, an appropriate choice of name for red wine producers

The concept of a wine studio appears to have originated in the United States, whereby a number of small individual winemakers purchase fruit or juice from local growers, and make their own wine, sharing equipment and warehousing facilities. In terms of economics, it makes a lot of sense to any young, up-and-coming winemaker, as no capital investment in land or vines is required, and only relatively little effort is needed to produce and market the wine.

In Australia, it is easy to approach growers and purchase their fruit. Even some top vineyard owners will allow a winemaker to hand-pick 3 or 4 rows. So, in 2003, Henry purchased 2 tons of top Shiraz fruit and produced 300 cases, under the label Wilson Gunn, derived from his own family name.

Taking the concept to a more hidebound France was not so easy. Even though Bordeaux is going through a rough patch, the vignerons usually sell their grapes to negociants, co-operatives or commercialise the wines under their own estate names. The market, however, is extremely competitive, and many winemakers are sitting on huge stocks of unsold wines.

Regrettably, many chateaux have a poor concept of marketing, exacerbated by the fact that the younger generation of French are simply not interested. Here was an opportunity for Henry to exploit and, having identified some vineyards in the Cotes de Castillon AOC, he started to produce his own micro-cuvee under the label “Aux Trois Freres”.

The Cotes de Castillon was a canny choice. Lying just to the east of St. Emilion, it shares similar soils and conditions, and can produce wines of similar quality, but at lesser prices. Little wonder that the leading St. Emilion chateaux, Canon La Gaffeliere and Beausejour-Becot, amongst other, have developed estates such as D’Aiguille and Joanin-Becot respectively. In other words, Henry could make a top-quality wine from grapes which cost a great deal less than its better-known neighbour, often from better-regarded soils.

Henry’s philosophy is to make a nature-driven wine. He sees it as a natural product, uses a very low-tech approach, with native yeasts, simple plastic fermentation vats, and minimal use of sulphur. It’s a minimal-interventionist approach.

The Wines

Flight 1 – Rose & White

1. Aux Trois Freres 2007 Bordeaux Rose (£6.29)
(80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc)
It’s clean, crisp and refreshing, with a dry finish, though a little lean on fruit and bitter on the finish. (CHP 14+)

2. KR Viognier/Chardonnay VdT Midi White (£8.29)
(70% Viognier 305 Chardonnay). The Viognier is purchased from Carcassonne and the Chardonnay from Ardeche, shipped as refrigerated juice. KR are the initials of Henry’s girlfriend, who prefers white wine. Full-bodied, peachy, minerally and a spicy-hot finish, with underlying butter. 40% barrel-fermented, producing full ripe flavours. The sweet fruit was a little confected, and I felt the wine was a touch too hot and alcoholic. (CHP 14+)

3. Aux Trois Freres Bordeaux Clairet 2006 (£6.19)
(50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot)
A Clairet is a deeper coloured Rose, whereby the juice is left on the skins for a little longer, and then pressed on the skins. It’s a traditional light Bordeaux style, not often seen in the UK. The word “Claret” is derived from this.

Fresh, with delicious spicy plum flavours, following through to a pleasing finish. Rich-tasting, perhaps a little earthy, with a hint of soft tannins, I found this most enjoyable. (CHP 16)

Flight 2 – Bordeaux

4. Aux Trois Freres 2004 (£10.19)
Cotes de Castillon, 100% Merlot, 18 months in new oak
Wonderful aromas of plums, vanilla and cloves. On the palate, there was oaky black-cherry fruit, with imperceptible tannins. Full-bodied New World Merlot style, lacking freshness with a little heat and alcohol creeping to the fore. (CHP 15+)

5. Aux Trois Freres 2005 (£13.19)
100% Merlot, 12 months in 100% new oak
Again inviting, spicy nose of cloves, vanilla and cinnamon. Much better acidity with flavours of plums and black cherries, again with a very soft silky texture. A better wine, but not a typical Bordeaux. (CHP 16+)

Flight 3 – McLaren Vale & Redheads

6. Wilson Gunn 2004 Shiraz (£9.99)
This developed aromas of spicy cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla, with meat and crispy bacon. Full-bodied, rich and meaty, with black fruits and hints of smoky bacon. On the mid-palate there is refreshing acidity, following through to a strong finish. A good wine at a very good price (CHP 17)

7. Wilson Gunn 2006 Cabernet (£10.29)
100% McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon
Full-bodied, with almost burnt raisins and black fruits, with notes of eucalyptus. Hot, spicy and earthy, with a bitter note on the finish. Out of balance, lacking freshness and structure. Perhaps the weakest wine of the night. (CHP 13+)

8. Wilson Gunn 2006 Reserve Shiraz McLaren Vale (£13.29)
100% Shiraz
Full-bodied, brooding and complex. On the palate, there were minerals, blackberry and black cherry, earthy soft tannins, finishing with a hint of black chocolate. A natural acidity comes through on the mid-palate, keeping the wine fresh, right down to an impressive finish. His best effort yet. (CHP 18)

Summary
The wines were very well received by the group, with one dissenting voice – me! (although I wanted to sleep on it). Phil Rosenbloom made the most telling comments “I thought the Roses and white were so-so, but when we moved onto the reds, they moved up a gear”. All the reds were warm, generous, fruity and very easy to like, and I felt this view was shared.

As for the dissenter, I felt his McLaren Vale Shiraz was absolutely outstanding and what he does best by a country mile. Clearly, it’s what he trained on and he fully understands his raw materials and vinification. The Cabernet, though, is a different matter, and his attempt was crude and heavy-handed. McLaren Vale, though, is not noted for Cabernet, but does produce outstanding Shiraz.

Moving to France, Henry is now working with “cool-climate” Merlot, yet I believe his techniques and mind-set are still in Australia. The result is that he produced a very well-crafted New World Merlot, without any of the typicity one expects from Bordeaux. Where was the freshness, minerality, tannins and structure? Comparing like with like, such as Cap de Faugeres, Joanin-Becot, or even Seigneurs d’Aiguilhe, I know which I’d prefer.

Neither the first Rose, nor the white were anything special, but I did like his Clairet. Perhaps there is a bigger future there.

By his own admission, Henry is on a learning curve, with each successive vintage. Moreover, his own palate is developing and changing, so perhaps his style of winemaking will progress as the years go by.
As a micro-winemaker, Henry Laithwaite can cherry-pick the best parcels in the vineyard of his choice, and then make them in his own inimitable style. I think the wines reflected an open-ended refreshing approach to winemaking, and although I personally only appreciated a few, I very much enjoyed his presentation and his gentle manner of selling. For further details, visit HYPERLINK "http://www.henrylaithwaite.com" www.henrylaithwaite.com, or telephone HRH Wines on 0114 224 2327.

(1366 words)

COMING UP …

Tuesday, 24th June 2008
Summer Champagnes and Sparkling Wines
A selection of leading Champagnes with a couple of sparklers for good measure.
The wines will be tasted blind – can you tell the difference?
Entry £15.00 per head

And a summer date for your diaries:

Friday, 18th July 2008
Bin Ends Summer Barbecue
A change of venue this year, for a very social evening.
Please contact Derek & Barbara Lamb on
0121 421 4204 or 07831 413677 (& HYPERLINK "mailto:deklamb@lineone.net" deklamb@lineone.net)
(£15.00 per head for loads of great food and fab wine)

Tuesday, 19th August 2008 (one week earlier than usual because of Bank Hol)
“What I like to Drink”
A chance to bring a bottle and showcase your favourite wine.
Admission: £5 per head

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com