BIN ENDS WINE TASTING GROUP
North American Reds
Tuesday, 18th March 2008
From our side of the “pond”, North American reds are difficult to source and evaluate, yet the irony is that the USA remains the third-largest wine supplier to the UK, hot on the heels of France. The first problem is that the major proportion is accounted for by two mass-market global brands, Gallo and Blossom Hill.
The second is that the top wines are absurdly expensive, with real quality only kicking in at the £20 plus mark, and at over £30 a bottle from the leading region of Napa. So finding reasonably priced wines occupying the middle ground, that are neither mass-produced nor over-valued, is an exacting task.
For tonight’s tasting, I sourced a selection of reds from California, Washington and Oregon, from both the Wine Society and Tanners. The aim was to give a broad-brush approach to different regions and grape varieties, but with four out of nine chosen from Sonoma, a leading region that lies in the shadow of Napa, but can give better value.
California produces around 90% of all USA grown wine. The first vines were planted by the missionaries in the late 1770s, but the first real boom followed the Gold Rushes in the second half of the 19th century.
By the early 20th century, there was overproduction, but vineyards were decimated by phylloxera. Between 1920 and 1933, Prohibition destroyed the domestic market, but until the food and wine revival which began in the 1960s, the preference was for cocktails, spirits or fortified wines.
In the 1970s, the Californians developed the idea of marketing wine on a varietal basis, and in the 1980s, began to develop the idea of terroir in matching wine varieties to more suitable soils and climate. The US equivalent of Appellation Controlee is AVA – American Viticultural Area. This permits as little as 85% of a single variety without declaring other varietals on the label.
The Californian climate is essentially Mediterranean, but off-shore ocean currents create fog banks, which limit sunlight and create cool-climate sub-regions, particularly useful for varieties such as Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.
Oregon lies to the north, and has become particularly well-known for its Pinot Noir. Its best known wine district is the Willamette Valley, which benefits from the marine airflow of the Pacific, giving mild winters and cool wet summers. The size of the holdings is small, and hence it is not a region for mass production.
Washington, still further north, is a dynamic fruit-growing state noted for hops and apples. The best vineyards are located in the lee of the Cascade mountains, which shelter them from the worst elements, but also make them dependent on irrigation. The region has become noted for its classic Bordeaux blends, but is developing a reputation for Syrah. Production, though, is large-scale, and dominated by one producer, Chateau Ste Michelle.
The Wines
Flight 1 – Petite Sirah and Syrah
Petite Sirah is not strictly Syrah, but Durif, a well-travelled black variety that is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin, and propagated by a Dr. Durif. It is widely planted in Victoria, Riverina and Riverland in South-East Australia.
1. Bogle Vineyards Petite Sirah Clarksburg 2005 California (Tanners £8.95)
The Clarksburg AVA is close to Sacramento, at the top end of the Central Valley. The Petite Sirah is Bogle’s flagship red. This was ink-black, rich and rugged. Full-bodied, there was concentrated black fruit within the grip of soft tannins, developing into a soft, sweetish finish. Best-value wine of the night. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 12 votes)
2. Duck Pond Cellars Syrah 2004 Columbia Valley Washington (Tanners £11.95)
Serious reduction problems with odours of overcooked cabbage and rubber. The black fruit showed some vibrancy, followed by astringency. The aftertaste is hot, indicating high alcohol, but it was bitter. Not pleasant and way overpriced. (CHP 12, Bin Ends 0 votes).
Flight 2 – Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
3. Hahn Estates Monterey Merlot 2005 (Wine Society £9.50)
The second label of Smith & Hook, in the hotter-climate Monterey region, south of San Francisco. Merlot is particularly popular in California, notwithstanding the fact it needs little or no ageing. On the plus side, there were sweet plums, leather and a silky soft texture, on the minus was a slightly offnote – sulphur and a touch of astringency. Not worth recommending (CHP 13, Bin Ends 0 votes).
4. Wente Cabernet Sauvignon Wetmore Reserve 2003
San Francisco California (Tanners £11.50)
A wine with some maturity and development. There was integrated blackcurrant, menthol and toast, with a touch of astringency, developing into a silky finish. I thought I detected a dirty note, but again, the alcohol came through with a hot fierce finish. Generally well-liked. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 5 votes)
5. The Society’s Exhibition Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Wine Society £12.50)
Fresh, slightly herbaceous cassis fruit, infused with spice, developing into a smooth, silky finish of dark chocolate. For a change, delivered exactly what it said on the tin. A good example of New World Cabernet and a popular choice. (CHP 16+ Bin Ends 6 votes).
Flight 3 – Pinot Noir
6. Lemelson 6 Vineyards Pinot Noir 2004 Williamette Valley Oregon
Wine Society £11.95)
Unfortunately, this was heavily corked, but beneath the mustiness, I detected bright cherry fruit, some freshness and balance. Alcohol was restrained at 13.5°. (no marks)
NB: I tasted a second bottle of this a few days later and found this to be in perfect condition. Medium-bodied red, with a bouquet of raspberry and menthol. On the palate, there are freshly crushed raspberries, spice and a silky smooth finish. If I didn’t know any better, I would say it was Burgundy. Lovely balance, texture and freshness, and not in the least over-alcoholic. A true taste of Pinot Noir. (CHP 18).
7. De Loach Russian River Pinot Noir 2005 Sonoma California (Wine Society £13.50)
A full-on strapping Pinot Noir, that had cherry fruit with a touch of jamminess, developing into spice and heat, then silk and chocolate. The fruit was sweet and ripe, but again the alcohol was a little too visible. Not a bad wine, though. (CHP 14+).
Flight 4 – Zinfandel
Believed to be related to the Primitivo grape of Southern Italy, Zinfandel arrived in the Eastern United States in the 1820s and later travelled out west. For many years, it was just regarded as a jug-wine, but it’s now taken a lot more seriously. Recent DNA fingerprinting has revealed its parentage as the Plavac Mali grape of Croatia.
8. Ravenswood Sonoma Old Vine Zinfandel 2004 California (Wine Society £13.95)
Full-bodied, soft and rich-flavoured, with bramble-fruit, spice and chocolate. Develops into a sweet finish, but without the problems of residual sugar that can arise with the cheaper Lodi. I thought this really delivered, and would be wonderful with barbecued spare ribs. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 7 votes).
9. Ridge Geyserville 2004 Sooma California (Tanners £22.70)
There was savoury black hedgerow fruit and a hint of liquorice, developing into smooth, silky black chocolate. Surprisingly restrained at 14.5° alcohol, it was a class apart, and will improve over the next 6 years. (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 11 votes).
Overall, I think our “mini-tasting” confirmed a number of preconceptions.
Firstly, that the Mediterranean varieties thrive in the Californian climate. Warm-climate varieties, such as Petite Sirah or Zinfandel are particularly well-suited and the generally tannic Cabernet Sauvignon thrives too. I think that Merlot, while popular, need careful handling and, in many cases, is not suited to the soils or climate. Pinot Noir, too, suffers to a lesser extent, and certainly produces something that could never be construed as Burgundy.
Secondly, Sonoma emerged as a wine-producing region worth seeking out, as I was particularly impressed by the Cabernet and Zinfandels. Perhaps we should be looking at the AVA more carefully before purchasing the wine?
Finally, apart from the Bogle Petite Sirah, none of the wines were cheap, averaging at just under £12 (without the £20-plus Ridge), and in all too many cases, offered poor value. Little wonder North American wine is hard to find in the UK.
COMING UP …
Tuesday, 29th April 2008
REGIONAL AUSTRALIAN REDS
A celebration of the diversity of Australia’s finest wine regions,
Encompassing a wide range of varieties and styles
Entry £10 per head
Tuesday, 27th May 2008
Tonight we have a flying winemaker in our midst.
Henry Laithwaite will be presenting a selection of wines, and
Explaining everything there is to know about them.
(entry: £10 per head)
Tuesday, 24th June 2008
A Taste of Austria:
Gruner Veltliners, Rieslings, fruity reds and stickies from
The land of Amadeus Mozart
(entry: £10 per head)
And a summer date for your diaries:
Friday, 18th July 2008
Bin Ends Summer Barbecue
In Quinton, Birmingham
(tickets will be available nearer the time)
Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com
|
