The Wines of Chile
Presented by Laura Clay
Tuesday, 26th February 2008

Grapes have been grown in Chile for 500 years, when the Conquistadors brought over cuttings from Spain, to make sacramental wine. The seeds of the modern winemaking industry, though were planted in the mid-19th century, when wealthy businessmen turned to France as a model, adopting French vines and wine-making techniques.

Chile profited in the late 19th century, when European vineyards were devastated by Phylloxera, the vine louse, whereby the Pacific Ocean, the Andes and the Atacama Desert provided natural barriers against the spread of this disastrous pest. Besides, phylloxera cannot survive the flood irrigation methods used in the absence of regular rainfall.

Almost uniquely, Chile is one of the few regions worldwide where grapes are still planted on ungrafted rootstock. Elsewhere, all vines are grafted onto American rootstock, which can tolerate the louse.

After languishing in the doldrums for nearly 100 years, a second coming occurred in the 1980s, following an increased demand for red wine, particularly in California. It followed a health study now known as “The French Paradox”, whereby Frenchmen in South-West France, who ate heavily saturated fats and smoked heavily, were found to suffer from a lower incidence of heart disease than their Northern European counterparts. The main difference in the diet was the consumption of red wine, and this was believed to stave off coronary problems.

Following massive investment, the industry has taken off, and export growth over the past 10 years has almost been exponential. Consumers have discovered that Chilean wines have been reliable, and delivered consistently good value. Their leading brands, such as Concha y Toro, are not just well-priced, but actually produce interesting wines. Moreover, leading European winemakers and consultants are now making wines in Chile, such as Michel Rolland from Bordeaux and Torres from Spain, demonstrating the country’s potential.

At present, there are 177,000 hectares under vine, with red wine accounting for around 75% of total production. By far the most important varietal is Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are significant plantings of Merlot and Syrah.

Chile has its own unique variety, too, Carmenere. Emanating from Bordeaux, it’s a grape that was discarded as being difficult and late-ripening. In Chile, it was mistakenly labelled and sold as Merlot, until it was rediscovered in the early 1990s, when a cutting was sent to a Bordelais viticulturalist, who identified it correctly. Now heralded as their flagship varietal, in the wrong hands it is somewhat gauche, and generally works best a part of a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, rather than used alone.

In terms of marketing, Chile has adopted the highly successful brand-led strategy, originally focussing on the four classics, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Over the past decade, the producers have been diversifying, introducing Pinot Noir, Syrah, Riesling and Viognier, amongst others.

At over 3000 miles in length, Chile offers an amazingly diverse climate. Originally vine-growing was centred around the capital, Santiago, but increasingly, winemakers are achieving better results by matching the grape variety to the appropriate terroir. For example, Syrah is performing well in the hot and dry Aconcagua, Cabernet in Maipo and Rapel, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay in the cooler Casablanca Valley, and Bio-Bio is now noted for its Pinot Noir.

The Wines

1. Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Leyda Valley (Wine Direct £12.95)
Initially, there were notes of elderflower. It was herbaceous, with a touch of gooseberry. On the palate, it was initially crisp with green-apple flavours, but then the alcohol came through, and the finish was woefully short. Leyda Valley is an upcoming cool-climate area. This has been dubbed the “Chilean Cloudy Bay”, but at 14.7%, for an SB, you must be joking! (CHP 14)

2. Porta Chardonnay Reserva 2006 Bio Bio (£5.89/£6.49 Tesco)
This had a pleasing understated use of oak, producing soft apple and pear flavours, with some minerals. Well-made, but didn’t excite, lacking vibrancy and a stronger finish.
(CHP 14+)

3. Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2007 Central Valley (£5.99 widely available)
This had fresh dark cherry fruit, developing a little heat and spice. The fruit was given interest by a sliver of wood-shavings. Whilst it’s not Burgundy, it had good balance, and a pleasing follow-through. Enjoyable. (CHP 15+)

4. Errazuriz Merlot 2006 Curico Valley (£6.99 widely available)
Simple, direct flavours of cassis and blackcurrant leaf, with a burnt and roasted hot finish, that was alcoholic and short. A one-time personal favourite – it used to be a Merlot/Carmenere blend – the quality now disappoints. Is it me, or has the style changed? Probably a bit of both! (CHP 14+).

5. Casillero del Diablo Syrah 2006 Central Valley (£5.99 widely available)
Pound for pound, the Casillero is probably the best value brand label on the UK market. Unfortunately, though, not the Syrah. I suspect the vines are still too young. Again, I tasted black cassis fruit, but with a burnt-toffee and caramel finish that was, again, too hot. (CHP 14)

6. Palo Alto Reserva 2006 Maule Valley (£7.99 Wine Rack, but 3 for 2 = £5.33 )
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Syrah, this had delicious black fruits, particularly cassis, with leafy eucalyptus characters. Developing well on the palate, there were soft ripe tannins, finishing on notes of caramel and mocha. Full-bodied, rich and lush, it’s terrific value for money, and the offer price. (CHP 16) Bin Ends best-value wine of the night.

7. Adobe Carmenere 2006 2006 Colchagua Valley (£6.25)
An organic wine coming in at a whopping 14.5%. Initially, there were flavours of black fruit, rose petals and black plums, but then it all fell apart, with a hot peppery mouthfeel, and a really nasty persistent bitter finish. Clumsy and gauche. (CHP 13+)

8. Carmen Winemakers Reserve 2002 Maipo (£14.99 Majestic)
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere and 25% Petite Sirah. There was a beautifully developed bouquet of gravy, menthol, cinnamon and vanilla. On the palate, there was juicy black fruit, soft ruffled tannins, developing into a mocha finish. Full-bodied and full-flavoured, this was a serious wine, and deservedly voted wine of the night. (CHP 16+).

9. Las Lomas Equality Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Maule Valley
Some barley-sugar, but very flat and flabby. Lacking acidity, Riesling personality and any complexity. Awful. (CHP 11)

COMING UP …

Tuesday, 18th March 2008 (one week earlier, to avoid Easter)
NORTH AMERICAN RED WINES
Our first-ever exploration into the grape varieties and
Viticultural regions of California, Oregon & Washington
Entry £10 per head

Tuesday, 29th April 2008
REGIONAL AUSTRALIAN REDS
A celebration of the diversity of Australia’s finest wine regions,
Encompassing a wide range of varieties and styles
Entry £10 per head

And a summer date for your diaries:

Friday, 18th July 2008
Bin Ends Summer Barbecue
In Quinton, Birmingham
(tickets will be available nearer the time)

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com