BIN ENDS TASTING: Tuesday, 27th November 2007

RIGHT-BANK CLARET – Tasting  Notes

French wine, in particular Bordeaux, can appear intimidating, but actually, it’s relatively easy to understand.  Nowadays, most Bordeaux is red, termed “claret” and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, supplemented by three other varieties, namely Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, which may or may not be used.

The decision as to which variety will predominate is, by and large, dictated by the soils.  The later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon prefers the hotter, well-drained sands and gravels found in the Medoc and the Graves, whereas the early-ripening Merlot thrives in the cooler moisture retaining limestone clays located across the Gironde estuary and to the east and north of the Dordogne river, more generally known as the Right Bank.  So, whilst Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the left bank, it only has a minor role to play on the Right Bank, where it is mainly replaced by Cabernet Franc.

Merlot is, in fact, more widely planted across Bordeaux than Cabernet Sauvignon, and is also the mainstay of basic Bordeaux.  Its profile is rounder, fatter and less structured, with softer tannins.  The main characters are plums and leather, compared to the classic cassis, cedar and firm tannins derived from Cabernet Sauvignon.

The principal AOCs of the Right Bank are St. Emilion and its Cru, Pomerol.  The value lies, however, in a host of satellite AOCs, such as the Cotes de Castillon, Cotes de Bourg and Fronsac.  This evening’s tasting was therefore dedicated to exploring these lesser-known AOCs and comparing them to their more famous cousins.

1.         Chateau Puygueraud 2004 Cotes de Francs (£8.95 Foire Aux Vins Calais)
(65% Merlot, 305 Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec)
This petit chateau is located in a tiny AOC on the eastern fringes, and is owned by Nicolas  Thienpoint, who manages  the illustrious St. Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classe, Pavie-Macquin.  Still austere and backward, with a firm backbone, it had fresh-tasting flavours of leather, plums and spice, with a subtle berry fruit finish.  I think this will develop well over the next 2-3 years.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends no marks)

2.         Chateau Perenne 1er Cotes de Blaye 2004 (£9.95 Foire Aux Vins Calais)
(75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc,  2% Malbec)
The Cotes de Blaye are located on the extreme north-west, on the right bank of the Gironde, opposite the Medoc.  The property was incorporated into the Bernard Magrez empire in 1997, and extensively restored  (Magrez is the owner of Chateau Pape-Clement, a top rank Pessac Leognan).

The style was distinctly full-bodied, alcoholic and fully extracted.  It had lots of black fruit and plums, with a velvety soft texture.  There was a pleasant kiss of oak, with a nutty finish.  Very showy, with the alcohol and weight just coming into view.  A far from “classic” style – Parkeresque.  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 3 votes).

3.         Chateau Fougas Maldoror 2004 Cotes de Bourg (£9.95 Foire Aux Vins Calais)
(50%  Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc)
The Cotes de Bourg lie just to the south of Blaye and the wines tend to be a little more robust and compact.  This leading property has made enormous strides in quality since the mid-1990s.

The higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon really shone through, giving the wine more structure and added cassis flavours.  The tannins were ripe, and the follow-through had a delicious backnote of raspberries.  Still a touch backward, the wine had lovely balance. 
(CHP 17, Bin Ends 3 votes)

4.         Chateau Jean de Gue 2004 Lalande de Pomerol (£12.50 Foire Aux Vins Calais)
75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet France, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon)
St. Emilion has 4 satellite AOCs and Pomerol one.  Quality is patchy and, in the past, the emphasis has been on quantity.  From St. Emilion, Lussac and Puisseguin are generally mediocre, but Montagne can be good and St. Georges even better. Lalande, too, can be rustic, lacklustre and thin, but some properties have shown enormous improvement.

The owner of Jean de Gue, Jean-Claude Aubert, likes to pick the grapes on the edge of over-ripeness, and uses the guru Michel Rolland to consult.  It shows a Robert Parker pleasing fruitcake style.  It was very soft, fully extracted with some toasty oak, round and very accessible.  More successful than the Chateau Perenne.  (CHP 15+, Bin Ends 1).

5.         Chateau  Fontenil 2004 Fronsac (£13.90 Foire Aux vins  Calais)
(90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc)
The two AOCs of Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac form a single zone, and are generally noted for producing a cheap rustic claret.  There was a time, though, in the 18th and 19th centuries, when Fronsac commanded the highest prices, so historically, there is great potential.

Fontenil is the property of guru Michel Rolland, and quintessentially reflects his style of winemaking.  This was extremely lush, ripe, round, smooth and silky.  It had a confection of black fruits, backed up with some firm ripe tannins, with a chocolate finish.  Give this some more
bottle age and it will continue to develop.  (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 1).

6.         Chateau Pervenche 2002 Cotes de Castillon  (CPH Calais (ex-Perardel) £8.10)
The Cotes de Castillon are located to the east of the region, and boast a plethora of great-value Petits Chateaux.  The terroir is often exceptional, indeed superior to parts of the neighbouring St. Emilion and its satellites.  This has been recognised by a number of major St. Emilion players, such as Count Stephan von Neipperg (Canon La Gaffeliere) who has bought Chateau d’Aiguilhe (second wine of Seigneurs d’Aiguilhe is brilliant and costs £7.99 at Waitrose), and the Becot family (Beausejour-Becot) who own Joanin-Becot.

Chateau Pervenche is the second wine of Clos Puy Arnaud, purchased by Thierry Valette in 2000.  Stephane Derenoncourt consulted and the property has been extensively renovated.  The 12.5 hectare estate comprises 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 3% Carmenere.

The 2002 was thoroughly pleasing.  There was freshness, structure and length.  Showing a little maturity, easily the best value wine of the evening.  (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 3 votes).

7.         Chateau La Gaffeliere St. Emilion Grand Cru 2001 (£9.96 Foire Aux Vins, Calais)
The classed growth classification of St. Emilion, first enacted in 1956, is somewhat inflationary.  Above basic AOC status is Grand Cru, followed by Grand Cru Classe.  The top wines are rated as 1er Grand Cru Classe (GCC), and categorised as “A” or  “B”.  There are only two “A-listers”, Cheval Blanc and Ausone.  The classification is  revised very 10 years, but went into meltdown in 2006, when there was a legal challenge.  The latest court rulling has restored the classification.

Ch. La Gaffeliere is a “B-Lister”  and this 22-hectare property comprises 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The second wine is the Clos (Wine fact – in Bordeaux, if the wine does not have the title Chateau, then there is a strong likelihood it’s a second wine).

2001 is acknowledged as a fine Right Bank vintage, and this came across as lean and angular, with soft black cherry fruit.  A touch mean and pinched, I detected some astringency, indicating that the fruit is starting to dry out.  Drink up!  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 1 vote).

8.         Fugue de Nenin 2002 Pomerol (Foire Aux Vins £13.35)
Pomerol is a Cru of St. Emilion, containing some of the world’s most expensive wines, such as Le Pin and Petrus.  There is no classification and the style at best is fleshy and rich.

Chateau Nenin is a 32-hectare estate, comprising 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc.  It has a chequered past, although the reputation has improved in recent vintages, following extensive investment by the Delon family.  The Fugue is the second wine, and the 2002 revealed plummy fruit, spice and melting leathery tannins.  Delicious from start-to-finish, this had an excellent follow-through and length.  Easily the wine of the night.  (CHP 17+  Bin Ends 10 Votes)

9.         Chateau Cadet-Piola 1995 St. Emilion Grand Cru (Foire Aux Vins  £14.25)
(51% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec)
A less fashionable “old style” St. Emilion from the excellent 1995 vintage, made an interesting comparison to conclude our tasting.  This was leaner and more austere, with little overt primary fruit.  That said, it was eminently drinkable, with integrated tannins and hints of cedar.  Although well liked, it strongly divided opinion between traditional claret lovers and those who prefer the fruitier New World easy drinking styles.  (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 9 votes).

Tonight’s tasting had been structured to compare a broad selection of Right Bank AOCs, contrasting the more famous with the satellites.   Apart from the 1995 Cadet-Piola, all the vintages were post-2000, with five from 2004.

What conclusions could we draw?  The satellite AOCs can offer great value and are often worth seeking out, at the expense of the better-known St. Emilion.  The style of wine, though based on Merlot, can vary enormously, dependent on the style the Chateau owner wants to take on.

Three blockbusters emerged from the 2004 vintage, with perhaps the Fontenil the most successful.  My preference was the Fougas Maldoror, with the Puygueraud a short length behind, as showing better structure and finesse with good ageing potential.  The key point is getting to know the producers and following the wine style you like (not always easy!).

The older vintages were more mixed. The Pervenche Puy Arnaud was best value, and the Fugue de Nenin a real stand-out.  The Clos La Gaffeliere disappointed, and the Cadet-Piola was a classic old style St. Emilion now at its peak.

Coming Up:

TUESDAY, 18TH DECEMBER 2007
Christmas is coming up – Sherry and Tapas
An exploration of the leading sherry styles, with some traditional
(and not so traditional) Xmas fare

FRIDAY, 18th JANUARY 2008

Bin Ends Annual Dinner at Opus Restaurant, Birmingham
Tickets: £50.00 per head, available from Margaret Hale, either at tastings
Or e.mail her on: Margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk
For those of you who have provisionally booked places,
Please let Margaret have your “dinner-money” as soon as possible, please

TUESDAY, 26TH FEBRUARY 2008
Let’s go to South America .. Laura Clay, in association
with Wines of Chile, will be presenting an evening of Chilean Wine. 
Clive will be taking the evening off tonight ….

SUGGESTIONS FOR 2008 TASTINGS ARE NOW INVITED

New Feature: 

Wines of the Month –
A couple of recommendations worth trying …

Canaletto Pinot Noir 2006 Pavia IGT (Tesco £4.99)

Close your eyes and you’d think this was a reasonable red Burgundy.  It has juicy cherry fruit, with some underlying lemon tea, finishing on notes of chocolate, raspberries and almonds.  Perhaps the nuts are the giveaway that it’s Italian.  There is lovely balance, and it’s silky smooth.  In fact, it’s the best Pinot Noir I’ve ever tasted at this price as normally, I’d spend around £9 to achieve this quality).  (16+ out of 20)

Clos La Coutale Cahors 2005 (£5.95 Wine Society)

A blend of Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, this is a rich, dark medium-bodied red, with wonderfully pure bramble fruit, supported by velvet tannins.  It’s fresh, balanced and my sort of wine.  Again, it’s superb value. (16+ out of 20).

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com