NEW WORLD V. OLD WORLD: A Blind Varietal Tasting

It’s said that, in an age of globalisation and the flying winemaker, where the same wine-making techniques are employed from one vineyard to the next, wine is becoming more homogenous.  Whilst there is greater cross-fertilisation of ideas and winemaking knowledge is more widely spread, there is still one factor that reigns supreme – “terroir”.  Location is still a vital element, whereby the soils and climate are still beyond the control of man.

In comparing four wine styles, we scrutinised the nature versus nurture argument.  Could we spot the difference between Old World and New?  Perhaps easier said than done, particularly when the wines were tasted blind.

Pair 1 – White Bordeaux

White Bordeaux is a classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon and, at its best, a rival to White Burgundy.  In the not-so-distant past more white than red was produced in Bordeaux, but now the reverse is true.

What I like about the blend is the way that the waxy lemon Semillon tones down the more aggressive nature of the herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s a wine that can take a little oak, and can mature over several years.

a)         Chateau Villa Bel Air 2005 White Graves (£8.85 LeClerc)
Made by the same winemaking team as the “super-second” Lynch-Bages, this was still very youthful, but showed great potential.  A positive oak influence with some vanilla and spice, it was still crisp, revealing glimpses of lemon citrus fruit.  Though still tight, it had a fine, long finish.  (CHP 16+ now, 17+ in 3 yrs)

b)         McHenry Hohnen 2005 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon (£7.95 Wine Society)
David  Hohnen is the founder of the legendary Cloudy Bay, and Cape Mentelle in the Margaret River area of Western Australia.  Bought out by Veuve Clicquot (now LVMH), his brother-in-law, McHenry, took him out of retirement.  This is a copycat version of the Cape Mentelle blend, but more competitively priced.
As anticipated, the fruit flavours were much brighter and clearly defined.  The bouquet was more upfront, with citrus notes and, on the palate, there was luscious lemon with a little sweetness on the finish.  It’s a wine with immediate appeal (CHP 16)

Pair 2 – Riesling

The classic continental grape of Alsace and Germany has been transplanted with some success  in cool climate Australia, such as Clare Valley Western Australia and New Zealand.  It’s a variety that cannot tolerate oak, and, as it ages, develops diesel and/or petrol notes.  Loved by connoisseurs, it’s often  loathed by others.

a)         Alkoomi Black Label Riesling 2006 (Wine Society £8.50)
Packaged with a screwcap to avoid cork taint, this type of closure will enable the wine to stay fresher for longer, by inhibiting the oxidation process.  The drawback is the need to rein in sulphur levels (see Pinot Noir, later).
Again, this had immediate impact with a keen bite of lime fruit, softened up with a faint backnote of diesel.  The length of finish was good, and this will improve over the next 12 months(CHP 16)
b)         Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2004 (CPH Calais £11.80)
From my favourite Alsace house, this, of course is a more expensive wine and has the benefit of 2 years more bottle age.  This was classic bone-dry steely Riesling.  The sort of Riesling upon which Alsace made its reputation in a region that has now lost its focus in terms of wine style.  It was steely, pure and minerally, with underlying lime fruit.  There was focus, concentration and length.  Supremely elegant, this will develop further in years to come.  (CHP 18)

3.         Malbec
Malbec is one of the great black grapes of South-West France, and pre-Phylloxera was a great deal more widespread in  Bordeaux.  Transported across the Atlantic, it has found a new home in the Southern Hemisphere, where it has now become the flagship varietal of Argentina.
a.         Dona Paula 2006 Malbec Mendoza (Oddbins £9.95)
Very upfront, this had blackberry and damson fruit, lifted by hints of smoke.  Easy-drinking and soft, with a full-on chocolate finish.  It had immediate appeal,  but after a second glass, I could find this cloying.  (CHP 14+)
b.         Chateau du Cedre 2004 Cahors (£10.95 CPH Calais)
A wine with altogether more structure and tannins.  The blackberry fruit was fresher and juicier, but the wine just had more character, style and length.  Will improve with time, but needs food.  (CHP 16+ to 17+ (in 5 yrs)

4.         Pinot Noir
The classic black grape of Burgundy is finding a new home in New Zealand.
a.         The Society’s Exhibition Savigny-les-Beaune 2003 N. Potel (£12.95 Wine Society)
Burgundy can be a minefield for the unwary.  Rather than rely on the  provenance, the producer is the primary factor here and, for sheer value in the £10-£20 bracket, the micro-negociant, Nicolas Potel has few peers.  Although he has parcels in the Cotes de Nuits, his reputation is founded on the lighter and easier Cotes de Beaune styles. (His Volnay Vieilles Vignes is great value).

2003, the year of the heatwave, was always going to be difficult for Pinot Noir, producing overcooked jammy fruit, with low acidity levels.  I found this attractive, and it did demonstrate some of the characteristics of the vintage, with jammy red fruits and just a trace of oak.  Not for keeping.  (CHP 14+)

b.         Neudorf Nelson Pinot Noir 2004 (Wine Society £14.95)
Bottled with a screwcap, this was extremely backward in spite of its age, and many comments were made about the presence of sulphur.  Highly perfumed, this tasted almost confected.  There was very juicy red fruit, but with a sweetish finish, giving me the sensation of cherry cream soda.  I really didn’t like this wine, and was particularly disappointed in terms of price/quality.  (CHP 13+)

Conclusion

The warmer climate of the New World uniformly produced bolder, brighter styles with more immediate appeal.  By contrast, the Old World classics needed more time, but revealed more minerality, complexity and class. 
Apart from the Neudorf Pinot Noir, all other New World examples were typically consistent and ready to drink.  However, apart from the Burgundy, the Old World wines were still evolving, and would repay cellaring. 
In sum, a fascinating exercise and a format well worth revisiting.         

TUESDAY, 27TH NOVEMBER 2007
Merlot heaven …
Right Bank Claret –  An in-depth analysis of the various AOCs which co-exist along the right bank of the Dordogne.  Can these Merlot-based blends be distinguished in terms of style?  Can you tell a Pomerol from a Fronsac?  All will be revealed with a choice of top-class wines.
(£15.00 per head)

TUESDAY, 18TH DECEMBER 2007

Christmas is coming up – Sherry and Tapas
Sweet sherry has a real fuddy-duddy image, but we will be exploring a range of top-flight sherries from Fino, Amontillado and Oloroso, with an old-fashioned Bristol Cream for  good measure.
If members are able to bring some nibbles, please e.mail me on: info@clives-wines.com

FRIDAY, 18th JANUARY 2008

Bin Ends Annual Dinner at Opus Restaurant, Birmingham
Tickets: £50.00 per head, available from Margaret Hales, either at the December tasting or e.mail her on: Margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk. (tel: 0121 454 4005)
This is our prestige event, and a not-to-be-missed gastronomic  treat, offering the chance to match fine wine with exquisite cuisine.  The price includes Champagne Reception, a three-course dinner with 4 other wines, and all service charges.
There are still places left, so please contact Margaret a.s.a.p.

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com