The wines of South-West France comprise a patchwork of appellations (AOCs) spread over an enormous area: From south of Bordeaux to the Pyrenees; and from the Atlantic to north-east of Toulouse. Due to its size, the region reveals a great deal of diversity in terms of grape varieties and styles, but all are centred around the gastronomic heartland of Gascony, and enjoy the moderating effect of the Atlantic.
Tucked away in a forgotten corner of France, the wines are often overlooked. The grape varieties are unusual too, with the best known whites made from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, reds from Malbec and Tannat. Others, such as Ugni Blanc and Colombard are commonly used in the production of Armagnac, but are now found increasingly under the Vin de Pays de Cotes des Gascognes label, as consumption of brandy falls.
Generally, the whites are easy to like and can offer great value. The reds less so, as they can be hard and austere, particularly so the “black wines” of Cahors and Madiran. Modern methods, such as better viticulture and viniculture, e.g. micro-oxygenation, have helped to put more flesh on the bones and tame some of the fiercest tannins.
The selection tonight has been chosen to give a broad outline of some of the wine-styles available, with a greater emphasis on reds. All the reds were double-decanted up to two hours before the tasting, and cheese and dry sausage served as an accompaniment.
Unless indicated otherwise, all wines were sourced from the specialists, Caves de Pyrenes of Guildford.
1. Bergerac Blanc Cuvee des Contis Tour des Gendres 2005 (£7.04)
A white Bergerac from a leading estate, using 100% Semillon. This is a variety that can be used to make dry or sweet wine, and more often than not, is overlooked and underestimated, which is a shame as it has a great deal to offer. Stylish and elegant, this was light and minerally, flavoured with lemon citrus and rounded with a hint of wax. Classy and well-liked. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 10 votes).
2. Jurancon Sec Clos Lapeyre 2005 (£7.68)
From Gros Manseng, Jurancon is a white-only AOC that can be made dry or sweet. This example was bone dry, showing crisp sour green fruit. It was refreshing, but a bit too aggressive (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)
3. Gaillac Rouge Cuvee des Drilles Domaine d’Escausses 2005 (£5.70)
From north-east of Toulouse, Gaillac can come in all shapes and sizes, but this one is made from Duras with Fer Servadou. It had juicy loganberry fruit, with some light rasping tannins, finishing on notes of pepper. Delicious (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote).
4. Cotes du Frontonnais Classique Chateau Le Roc 2004 (£5.89)
This AOC is just north of Toulouse and is distinguished by its use of the rare Negrette black grape. Here it is blended with 25% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A touch chewy, this was a lovely blend of liquorice and juicy black fruit. Medium to light-bodied, the balance was good. (CHP 15+, Bin Ends 1 vote).
5. Domaine du Cros Lo Sang del Pais Marcillac 2005 (£6.39)
Marcillac is a little-known AOC above Gaillac, and here the Fer Servadou grape is locally known as “Mansois”. In some ways, the flavours were similar to the Gaillac, but more foursquare and beefier. Again, flavours of loganberry, with more grip, but fleshes out in the mouth. Most enjoyable (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote).
6. Cotes de Bergerac Clos d’Yvigne “Le Rouge et Le Noir” 2001 (£8.00 Majestic)
Red Bergerac is more often than not based on Merlot but, in this case, it’s blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a little unusual. Made by English winemaker Patricia Atkinson (her toils and travails can be read in her autobiographical “The Ripening Sun”), this is classically correct and modern. It’s a compote of black fruits, plums, leather, ripe tannins and hints of coffee, developing into black chocolate on the finish. A real triumph. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 7 votes)
7. Chateau du Cedre “Le prestige” 2004 Cahors (£10.28)
Pascal Vanderhaeghe makes wine in one of the top four estates of the AOC, where the reds are based on Malbec – a black grape that, in the wrong hands, can be as tough as old boots! Not so with this one, though. It pressed all the right buttons, with crushed blackberry flavours, seasoned with a judicious amount of oak. Ripe tannins gave way to a soft sweet-fruit finish and, all in all, a wine with perfect balance and flavour. One of the few Cahors Malbecs able to give the Argentines a run for their money. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 8 votes).
8. Domaine Abotia Irouleguy 2004 (£10.39)
A Basque wine made from Tannat blended witih Cabernet Sauvignon, this produced “in your face” flavours of blackcurrant fruit pastilles. Balanced with some spice and tannins, altogether I found this gauche and rather simple. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 3 votes)
9. Domaine Berthoumieu Charles de Batz Madiran 2004 (£9.93) (£11.95 at Connollys)
A big strapping wine with ripe damson fruit, underpinned by a lovely earthy flavour. The use of oak has given this smooth and silky texture. Not for the faint-hearted though, this showed exceptionally well (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 5 votes).
10. Les Dernieres Grives Domaine du Tariquet 2004 VdP Cotes des Gascognes (£9.25 CHP stock)
A honeyed late-harvested white from Petit Manseng. On the nose, there was passion fruit, but on the palate more lemon and honey. A medium-sweet style, there was a lovely shot of acidity to balance the sweetness. The finish was a touch short, but most enjoyable nonetheless.
(CHP 16, Bin Ends 9 votes).
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My expectation was that this was going to be a difficult evening, full of unloved and unlovely wines. The reality was that we had a selection of characterful, well-balanced and delicious wines, that demand, and deserve, a wider audience.
Coming Up:
TUESDAY 30TH OCTOBER 2007
8 high-class producers; four from Europe and 4 from the New World.
Can we spot the difference? And who will win out?
To avoid prejudice, the wines will be served blind.
(£15.00 per head entry fee)
TUESDAY, 27TH NOVEMBER 2007
Merlot heaven …
Right Bank Claret – A Tour around the Bordeaux AOCs
Which make up the Right Bank, including St. Emilion and Pomerol amongst others
(£15.00 per head)
TUESDAY, 18TH DECEMBER 2007
Christmas is coming up – Sherry and Tapas
An exploration of the leading sherry styles, with some traditional
(and not so traditional pre-Xmas fare)
FRIDAY, 25th JANUARY 2008
Bin Ends Annual Dinner at Opus Restaurant, Birmingham
Tickets: £50.00 per head, available from Margaret Hale, either at tastings
Or e.mail her on: Margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk
Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com
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