Not that I’ve ever counted, but there are more than 2000 different grape varieties that can be used to make wine.  The paradox is that we tend to confine ourselves to a number less than the fingers of both hands.

Bearing in mind that the grape variety is the supreme factor in determining the flavour of a wine, it’s a pity to limit oneself to 3 “A-listers” (Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc) and 3 “B-listers” (such as Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Viognier) in terms of white.  The purpose of tonight’s tasting is to widen our horizons, and go for something a little more unusual and rare.

1.         Lamura Grillo 2005 (£4.19 Oddbins)
A rare Sicilian grape, hitherto used as the mainstay of Marsala, but now developed for table wine.  It had flavours of spiced green plums, and was very fresh and highly quaffable.  There was a surprisingly good follow-through (CHP 15, Bin Ends 8 votes).

2.       La Goutte d’Or Crepy 2005 (£4.50 sourced direct)
The fist of two “Vins de Ski”.  This one is from Chasselas, grown on the southern slopes of Lake Geneva (aka Lac Leman).  Not helped by over-cropping, it’s a dull grape at best, and can only appeal to undemanding skiers to go with their tartiflette and fondue.  Very light, with minerally pear fruit, developing into a bitter finish.  Disappointing and poor.  (CHP 13, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3.       Seyssel La Tacconiere 2005 Savoie (£5.00 sourced direct)
From the Altesse grape, the mainstay of Roussette de Savoie, this was from the little-known AOC of Seyssel.  Again, minerally pear fruit, but thin and light, with a musty bitter finish.  Particularly disappointing, as this was one of the better versions I could find.  (CHP 13, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4.       Gaba do Xil 2005 (Galicia, Spain)
Produced by Spain’s leading consultant winemaker,  Telmo Rodriguez, from the Godello grape.  This had lime and greengage fruit, but had lost some of its vibrancy, as it was a touch flabby.  Better when I last tasted it, so not for keeping, but the 2006 is receiving rave reviews.  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 1 vote).

5.       Quinta do Ameal 2004 Vinho Verde (c£8.00 Corney & Barrow)
Vinho Verde translates from the Portuguese as “Green Wine”, meaning young wine.  A Vinho Verde can, in actual fact, be red or white, and can be made from all manner of  varieties.

This version is from Loureiro, and had real lime-cordial characters.  Light and elegant, it was marred by a hint of sulphur.  (CHP 15, Bin Ends 2 votes)

6.       Fiano Mandrarossa 2006 Sicily (£5.25 Wine Society)
The Fiano grape from Southern Italy is best k known as Fiano de Avellino.  This version has been made in Sicily, and showed exciting green fruit with citrus, enriched with oil and spice.  Medium to full-bodied, this showed good complexity for such a keenly-priced wine.  (CHP 15, Bin Ends 0 votes).

7.       Domaine Weinbach Sylvaner 2004 Alsace (£8.85 CPH Calais)
The workhorse grape of Alsace, which is declining in popularity, and also used extensively in Franken (Germany).  This example is made by the top-notch house of Weinbach (Colette Faller and her daughter).

The quality was stunning.  New-mown hay and lime fruit, wrapped around a core of acidity.  Fully mature and really stylish.  (CHP 18, Bin Ends 10 votes)

8.       Santorini 2005 (Wine Society £8.95, and now listed by Waitrose)
Made by the Hatzidakis winery in the volcanic Greek island of Santorini, from a blend of Assyrtiko.  An odd bouquet of putty and fish scales belied a sublime honeyed fruit, developing into a fully dry finish.  The balance of sweet to dry was perfect, and the wine was truly classy.  (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 8 votes).

9.       The Society’s Exhibition Gruner Veltliner 2006 Kamptal Austria (£9.95 Wine Society)
Made by Brundlemeyer, Gruner Veltliner is the Australian flagship varietal, and is gaining convincing recognition.  In some ways akin to Pinot Grigio, but without the personality bypass.  Slightly carbonated, this had pungent smoky green pear fruit, enhanced with a backbone of acidity and slatey minerals.  A superb example.  (CHP 17, Bin Ends 4 votes).

10.     Clos Culombo 2006 Corse Calvi Vermentino (£8.95 Wine Society)
The Vermentino grape is widely used in Languedoc (where it is known as Rolle) and Sardinia, so it’s no surprise to see one from Corsica.  There was lemon, nuts and honeyed fruit, but the bitter finish was poor.  Disappointing.  (CHP 13+, Bin Ends 0 votes).

Coming Up next month and beyond ……

Tuesday, 18th September 2007 (one week earlier than usual): A Selection of wines from South-West France
We are sourcing wines from Caves de Pyrene, Britain’s leading South-West France specialist,
so the wines will be a mixture of the rare and unusual.
Tickets £10 per head.

Tuesday, 30th October 2007: Old World v New World
A blind tasting comparing varietals from traditional winemaking regions
against their New World cousins
(Ticket cost to be confirmed)

Tuesday, 27th November 2007: Right Bank Claret
(say no more!)
(tickets £15 per head)

Tuesday, 18th December 2007: Sherry and Tapas
(one week earlier than usual)
(Ticket Price to be confirmed)

And a little further in advance … for your diary ….

Friday, 25th January 2007 – Bin Ends Annual Dinner
at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham. 
Tickets (£50 per head which includes the dinner, all wines and a gratuity)
are now available from Margaret Hale (margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk)
(or at the monthly tastings)

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com