It has often been said that Champagne is over-rated and over-priced. This evening, we put this assertion to the test, by pitting two Champagnes against some top-notch sparklers, to see what came out on top, and just to avoid any pre-conceptions, all 8 wines were served blind.
The wines varied in price, from around £7 to £16 a bottle, and all were produced by the Champagne method, with one exception. Also known as the “Traditional Method”, the sparkle comes from a secondary fermentation in bottle, and enables the wine to develop yeasty characters (autolytic), such as breadcrumbs or brioche from the lees contact.
The exception used the “tank” or “charmat” method, whereby the secondary fermentation is carried out under pressure in a closed tank, and then arrested by cooling the temperature. The method is cheaper and quicker, and produces a fruitier wine. The drawbacks are less complex characteristics and fizz that turns flat more quickly.
1. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene (£6.90 Tanners)
From the Prosecco grape, using the Cuvee Close method, this, I’m afraid, is as good as it gets. It begins with a rush of lemon citrus, but fades quickly on the mid-palate, through to a very short finish. Easy drinking at most, for me it’s a wine that’s horrendously over-hyped and over-rated. (CHP 13, Bin Ends 1 vote).
2. The Society’s Celebration Cremant de Loire 2004 (£8.50 Wine Society)
The sister company to the Champagne producer Alfred Gratien, this blend is predominantly from Chardonnay, with the Chenin Blanc content much reduced. The bubbles were more persistent, with a fresh, clean light taste, with butter and some character, developing both on the mid-palate through to a pleasing finish. At half the price of Champagne, this well-made sparkler offers terrific value and was much liked. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 6 votes).
3. Tanners Cava (£6.99)
From a blend of Maccabeo 50%, Parallada 30%, Xarello 20%, this was fuller, richer, with a waxy creaminess. There was minerally pear fruit with yeasty characters. As someone who loathes Cava, with its hot earthy characters, I found this most agreeable, but opinion was divided, between love it or loathe it. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 4 votes).
4. Ridgeview Merrett Bloomsbury 2004 (Wine Society £16)
Predominantly a Chardonnay blend, this is marked by its high-toned acidity, with noticeable bottle variation between our two samples. The first had buttery shortbread biscuit characters, which opened out to a delicious long-lasting finish. It was fully mature, whereas the second bottle was more lively with flavours of green hazelnuts. The first bottle scored 17.5, and the second 17. For me it was the wine of the night, and garnered 6 Bin Ends votes.
5. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut NV Champagne (widely available, rrp £21.99)
The sixth most popular UK brand, produced by an ultra-modern co-operative in Chouilly, just south of Epernay. It was minerally, with sherbet lemon flavour and a hint of yeast. Clean and vapid, it had no personality and a nasty bitter finish. I loathed it, but surprise surprise, it was easily the most popular wine of the night. (CHP 13, Bin Ends 10 votes).
6. Andre Clouet Brut Reserve NV Champagne (Tanners £16.30)
An 80/20 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend, from a leading grower in Bouzy, famous for its red grapes. Very rich, soft and mouthfilling, nutty and buttery, but lacked the backbone of acidity. It had a rich and persistent length, but ultimately disappointed. I had hoped this would be the wine of the night, but it was not. I am hoping that this will improve with cellaring, as I bought it directly from the producer. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 5 votes)
7. Pelorus 2001 (£16.00 The Wine Society)
This is from a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay, from the leading sparkling wine producer in New Zealand, Cloudy Bay, now owned by Veuve Clicquot. On the nose, it had a peculiar creosote and sulphur bouquet, which masked the citrussy lemon characters. Soft and buttery, it had persistent length, but lacked structure. I had previously regarded this as a benchmark for sparkling wine, but was very disappointed with this example. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 2 votes).
8. Jansz Vintage Brut 2001 (£14.95 Tanners)
From cool climate Tasmania, this has the classic mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Full-flavoured and soft, this was rich and mouthfilling with minerally lemon fruit. It just lacked that spine of acidity to give that real touch of class. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 5 votes).
The results were surprising, not least for me. Prior to the tasting, and based on my own experience of blind tasting, I would have placed Pelorus first, Jansz second and Andre Clouet third. Against expectation, the Nicolas Feuillatte, a leading brand champagne, which I had found anodyne and bland romped home, with the Ridgeview and Cremant de Loire vying for second place.
Whilst I would take issue with the group over their choice of bubbly, there is no doubt that the Cremant de Loire and English sparkling wine showed well, indicating that the group do favour the acidic structure of good sparkling wine.
To be honest, though, none of the wines really showed well, in spite of a careful pre-selection, but that is the nature of blind tasting. If a wine shows well under this type of scrutiny, believe me, it’s going to be exceptional, as a glance at the label really will influence one’s judgement.
Coming Up:
FRIDAY, 20TH JULY 2007
Annual Bin Ends Barbecue at Margaret Hale’s home
Tickets still available at £15.00 per head
Loads of great wine and nosh in a convivial setting
FRIDAY, 20TH
TUESDAY, 21ST AUGUST 2007
Rare and Curious Whites – something completely different
for those tiring of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, etc.
TUESDAY, 18th SEPTEMBER 2007
The Wines of South-West France:
A fascinating exercise, sampling some highly individual wines
TUESDAY 30TH OCTOBER 2007
Old World versus New World:
A comparative tasting of the same varieties grown
in different regions
TUESDAY, 27TH NOVEMBER 2007
Right Bank Claret (…. Nuff said!)
TUESDAY, 18TH DECEMBER 2007
Christmas is coming up …. Sherry and Tapas
FRIDAY, 25th JANUARY 2008
Bin Ends Annual Dinner at Opus Restaurant, Birmingham
Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com
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