Following on from our very successful Red Burgundy tasting, it was only logical to explore the White.  This month, rather than simply concentrate on the heart of the region, the Cote d’Or, the wines for tonight’s tasting were selected from around the various sub-regions, to give a wider appreciation of the AOCs and differences in quality.

On one level, White Burgundy is pretty easy to understand as, for the most part, it’s made with Chardonnay.  The main difference with red is that, unlike the notoriously temperamental Pinot Noir, Chardonnay is a lot more predictable and reliable.  The price, though, will be dictated by the quality of the “terroir” enshrined in AOC, as well as the reputation of the producer.

Chardonnay from Burgundy never achieves the ripeness levels of the New World.  Over the top flavours of peach, mango and pineapple chunks are unusual and, altogether, the style is much more restrained, with green apples and greengages more apparent, sometimes supported with hazelnuts.  The use of new oak also tends to be much more restrained, avoiding obvious vanilla and toasty characters.

Seven wines were selected from the various sub-regions, as follows:

MACON-VILLAGES

Macon is located at the southern end of the Burgundy region, immediately to the north of Beaujolais.  The reds are probably the worst AOC in France, usually a Gamay/Pinot Noir mix, and should be outlawed, but the whites can offer terrific value.

The better quality wines usually append “Villages” to the label, or even the name of the village itself, e.g. Macon-Peronne.  Generally, simple “Villages” Macon is unoaked.  Within the Maconnais, there are three “crus” which are of superior quality, namely, Viré-Clessé, St. Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé.  As these wines can demand a higher price, they are generally oaked.

1.         Domaine de Lanques “Les Berthelots” Macon-Peronne 2004 (£6.50 direct from grower)
From a producer who has recently broken with the local co-operative, and struck out on his own.  This was his best cuvee, and sees no oak, retaining lovely freshness and mineral characters.  It was crystal-clear, with a hint of sweetness on its ripe greengage fruit, augmented with butter.  Now at its peak, it came at a terrific price and, unsurprisingly, was highly popular.  (CHP 17, Bin Ends 8 votes)

CHABLIS

Chablis is located at the northern extreme of Burgundy, not far from Auxerre, and closer to the Aube region of Champagne.  The classic soils are Kimmeridgean clay, and the more northerly climate produces a much greener style than the rest of the region.  Traditionally, too, Chablis is unoaked.

Basic Chablis is labelled plain old “Chablis”, with the best sites reserved for 1er Cru and Grand Cru status.  The worst wines fall under the AOC Petit Chablis.  The problem is that too many 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards were not up to scratch and there is persistent overcropping.  Around 30% of total production is dominated by a giant co-operative, La Chablisienne, who are generally reliable.  Personally, though, Grand Cru Chablis is never worth the outlay of £30 plus.

Perhaps the main difference is that Chablis does not usually undergo a malolactic fermentation.  This is a secondary bacteriological fermentation, much in the same way as milk is turned into yoghurt, and is a process which is naturally-occurring.  However, nowadays, it is deliberately induced by the winemaker.

Essentially, it turns the green malic (apple) acids into milk lactic acids, softening the texture of the wine.  Classic Chablis never undergoes a malo, whereas a Meursault from the Cote d’Or does.

2.         Chablis 2005 Domaine William Fevre (£9.50 CPH Calais (formerly Perardel)
The word Domaine on a label indicates that the grapes are sourced from their own vineyards, so where it is omitted, the producer is acting as a negociant, by buying in grapes or wine.  William Fevre will omit the term domaine as appropriate, but our sample was clearly produced from their own vineyards.  William Fevre, along with Dauvissat and Raveneau, are amongst the top producers and are now owned by the Champagne House Henriot.  Quality has improved under their stewardship, although prices are higher than average.

This had rapier-like steely characters, with fresh greengage fruit, enlivened with spice and softened with a knob of butter.  Long-lasting on the finish, this had true elegance, clarity and focus.  If only more Chablis were of this quality.  Well-liked.  (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 6 votes).

AOC BOURGOGNE
Burgundy is the catch-all AOC of the entire region, and accounts for 50% of total production.  Leading negociants can source fruit across the entire region, and typically, Louis Jadot source theirs from both the Cote d’Or and the Maconnais.

3.         Bourgogne Blanc 2004 Matrot (£9.00 Connollys)
Quite elegant and restrained, with a hint of oak.  It had greengage fruit, spice and butter, but finished on an unpleasant bitter note.  (I tasted this last year, and it was much better).  Perhaps past its best, but certainly disappointing.  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes).

COTE CHALONNAISE

Sandwiched between the Cote d’Or and the Maconnais, this is an area dominated by co-operatives, but with a few good-value producers.  Montagny is the most widespread and cheapest, followed by Rully, Givry and Mercurey.

4.         Rully 1er Cru Rabource 2002 Olivier Leflaive (£25 magnum Calais Vins)
A new-wave negociant concentrating on white Burgundy from over 60 AOCs.  This was rich and honeyed, with a hint of smoke and a glorious luscious texture.  Still showing that hallmark greengage fruit, offset by a coating of butter, the finish was long and elegant.  Perfectly balanced and stylish.  (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 12 votes).

COTE DE BEAUNE

The Cote d’Or is divided between the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune.  The former is a red-only area (although some white is produced as AOC Bourgogne), but the latter is famous for both white and red.

Just off the main drag, on slightly higher ground, are such AOCs as St. Aubin and St. Romain.  The wines tend to be lighter, but are more moderately priced and often good value.

6.         St. Romain 2002 Alain Gras (£10 CPH Calais, £14.60 Tanners)
Minerally, fine, light and spicy, with greengage fruit and butter.  The finish was long and the style elegant.  More high-toned, but classy.  (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 2 votes).

7.         Meursault 2002 Matrot (£23 Connollys)
A simple “village” wine, Matrot is a leading Meursault producer, who eschews new oak on his best wines, to allow the terroir to shine through.  Again, there was an outstanding purity of greengage fruit, spice and butter, with a long, elegant finish.  Exceptionally fine.  (CHP 18, Bin Ends 8 votes).

8.         Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Chenevottes” 1er Cru 2000 Michel Colin-Deleger (£23 CPH Calais)

Along with Puligny-Montrachet, one of the finest addresses of the region and an AOC which can also be used for red.  Colin-Deleger farm around 20 hectares and are well-respected.

This 1er Cru had a much fuller fruit flavour, with citrus notes as well as greengage, minerals and lashings of butter. A big wine with an incredibly soft finish, there was a faint backnote of butterscotch.  A classic white Burgundy.  (CHP 18, Bin Ends 8 votes)

Summary
Apart from one which marginally disappointed, there were six outstanding wines on show.  Each demonstrated the subtle differences in character from one sub-region to the next, revealing the various facets that make White Burgundy unique.

If there was one underlying and unifying feature, it was balance and the restrained use of oak where used.  Not once did I detect in-your-face fruit flavours, toast and vanilla, too much alcohol or residual sugar yet, as a set, each demonstrated complexity and finesse.  It was plain to see why classic White Burgundy is so highly-prized.

Coming Up next month and beyond ……
Tuesday, 22nd May 2007 (one week earlier than usual because of Bank Holiday)
Wine with curry?  Indian cuisine has taken over as our national dish, but is it possible to match it with wine.  Surely lager is the obvious and only choice!
Working with the culinary expert, Anita Sharma-James, we will be sampling a selection of dishes with an assortment of wines.  Cost £15.00 per head.

Tuesday, 26th June 2007:  Champagne or Sparkling?
A blind tasting, pitting a popular Champagne brand against some top-quality sparklers from around the globe.  Is Champagne worth the hype or the money, and can you spot the difference?  Due to the high cost of the wines, entry will be £15 per head.

Friday, 20th July 2007:  Bin Ends Annual Barbecue
Usual venue (Margaret Hale’s back garden), and a great opportunity to let our hair down and wash down those burgers and sausages with some carefully-chosen wines.  All profits will offset the cost of the wines for the Annual Dinner.  Tickets on sale nearer the time.  £15.00 a head.

Tuesday, 21st August 2007 (one week earlier than usual):  Rare and curious whites.
Fed up with the ubiquitous Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio?  Then this tasting is a
perfect opportunity for you to try something really different and unusual. 
£10 entry fee per head

Tuesday, 18th September 2007 (one week earlier than usual): Old World or New World?
In an age of flying winemakers, it’s said that the wines from the Old and New Worlds are becoming closer and more uniform. This blind tasting is an opportunity for you to test your own senses and preferences.  £10.00 per head

Tuesday, 30th October 2007
The Reds of South-West France.
An opportunity to explore a curious patchwork of appellations, with some familiar and not-so-familiar wine styles.  £10 entry per head

And a little further in advance … for your diary ….

Friday, 25th January 2007 – Bin Ends Annual Dinner
at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham. 
Tickets will be on sale later in the year

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Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com