The Languedoc-Roussillon is France’s biggest wine-producing region by far.  It produces around two-and-a-half times the volume of Bordeaux, and a similar amount more than Australia.  The region is enormous, stretching from the Pyrenees in the West to the mouth of the River Rhone in the east.

Until the 1970s, the South of France had a reputation for only producing plonk.  The wine never saw the inside of a barrel, nor was it ever chateau-bottled.  All was sold to the co-operative or negociant and  generally shipped in bulk.

The next 15 years witnessed a revolution, leading to the creation of a patchwork of Appellations (AOCs) which all share a common theme.  Apart from the Mediterranean climate, the universal feature is that, for the most part, the Languedoc is a red-wine producer primarily based on a common set of five grape varieties, but used in differing proportions.

Each AOC has maximum and minimum percentages, but the final decision is  left to the winemaker.  Unfortunately, by law, he cannot state the variety-blend on the label.

The three superior varieties are Syrah (Shiraz), Grenache and Mourvedre.  The lesser are Carignan and Cinsault.  Originally from the Northern  Rhone, Syrah is the biggest success story.  To really succeed, though, Grenache requires low yields (below 45 hectolitres per hectare), and Mourvedre a hot micro-climate to fully ripen.

Carignan is an ugly duckling, and is generally disliked.  Nevertheless, in the right hands and using “old vines”, it can be superb.  Cinsault is even worse, and these days is generally used in rosé.

In such a large and diverse region, there are enormous differences in soils.  The best wines tend to come from limestone, limestone/clay and schist.  There are also significant temperature variations. It’s cooler in the west, where the influence of the Atlantic is still more noticeable, and where vineyards are at higher altitudes.  These areas tend to produce more elegant, fresher styles, whereas the hotter areas produce more full-bodied and alcoholic wines.

The purpose of the evening was to examine a number of AOCs and look at the influences that give this family of wines their common and distinctive characters.

1.       Domaine des Aires-Hautes 2003 Minervois (CHP stock £6)
Fresh and spicy, with sweet juicy red fruit, and a reasonable follow-through on the mid-palate
(CHP 14, Bin Ends 2 votes)

2.       Chateau de la Negly La Cote 2004 La Clape  Coteaux du Languedoc (CHP stock £6.50)
More robust, richer and spicy, with plum and black-fruit characters.  There was plenty of grip and mouth-furring tannins (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3.       Domaine du Grand Cres 2003 Corbieres (Tanners £8.20)
More rustic in style, this had earthy juicy redcurrants, seasoned with white pepper.  A lighter bodied wine retaining freshness, with a delicious follow-through.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote)
(Corbieres allows a higher proportion of Carignan and less Syrah)

4.       Domaine Cros  Vieilles Vignes 2003 Minervois (CHP stock £9.99)
Full-bodied and rounded, with soft, ripe berry fruit.  Drying tannins, but a sweet follow-through.  Forward, ripe and easy-drinking.  (CHP 15+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

5.       Les Hauts de la Borie Blanche 2002 Lorgeril (£7.99 CHP stock)
“Cru” Minervois, a wine with elevated status, from a delimited sub-region, with required barrel-ageing, and the use of a higher proportion of the “ennobling” varieties (in this case, Syrah).  A much more consumer friendly immediate style, with gamey black fruit, and a silky smooth texture.  Stylish and classy (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 10 votes).

6.       Domaine du Poujol Podio Alto 2004 Coteaux du Languedoc (Tanners £7.99)
This had delicious plum and black-cherry fruit, with spice and grip.  Still backward, but promising.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends 11 votes)

7.       Domaine Gauby Calcinaire Cotes du Roussillon Villages (The Wine Society £9.95)
This had “Brett”**, animal (mouse!) and farmyard characters.  It was quite stinky, but there was still some underlying black fruit, fine tannins and a smooth finish  The balance was good, too, but you just had to hold your nose!  (CHP 15, Bin Ends 2)

8.       Chateau La Roque 2003 Pic St. Loup (Tanners £9.50)
A 100% old-vine Mourvedre blend, from the “Cru”  Pic St. Loup, a high-altitude region within the Coteaux du Languedoc, producing lighter, more elegant styles.  This was surprisingly pale in colour, but it was fine-structured and elegant, with juicy black damson flavours, seasoned with pepper.
(CHP 16, Bin Ends 15 votes)

9.       Copa Santa la Mejanelle 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc (Wine Society £11.50)
Full-bodied, round and alcoholic.  There was plum and black-fruit flavour, with an underlying earthiness, but the alcohol and heat were very much apparent.  From an exceptional vintage, it was out of balance and too alcoholic.  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 10 votes).

10.     Prieure de St. Jean de Bebian 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc (Wine Society £13.95)
A leading estate from a great vintage, this disappointed, due to reductive problems.  (stinkiness, such as burnt-rubber caused by a lack of oxygen during fermentation).  It was full-bodied, rich and spicy, still a little closed, but it had a super depth of fruit.  It might improve with aeration. 
(CHP 15+, Bin Ends 10 votes)

** Brettanomyces:  commonly known as “Brett” is a fungal infection producing animal characters such as mouse or sweaty saddle.  It can infect a winery or barrels, but is sensitive to sulphur dioxide.  Low levels are generally tolerated, but on this wine, it was quite pronounced.

Although tonight’s wines set out to prove the differences in terroir and AOCs, as a set of wines, I know that they are all capable of showing better and, for this I blame myself.  Firstly, these are wines that are made to interact with spicy, fatty foods, and would have benefited enormously from serving with hard, mild cheddar or dry sausage.  Secondly, I under-estimated their robust nature, and all would have benefited form decanting and aeration, an hour or two before the tasting.  Next time, I’ll bear that in mind.

COMING UP …..

Tuesday, 27th March 2007:  Red Burgundy
A complete guide to the glories of Pinot Noir from the Cote d’Or.  Due to the
high quality of the wines on show, the entry fee has, by necessity, been increased to £15.00

Tuesday, 24th April 2007: White Burgundy
The only logical follow-up … Experience the chameleon-like Chardonnay from its
original homeland, and marvel at the amazing range of styles from one small region. 
Once again £15.00 per head entry-fee

Tuesday, 22nd May 2007 (one week earlier than usual because of Bank Holiday)
Old World or New  World?  In an age of flying winemakers, it is said that the wines from
the Old  and New Worlds are becoming closer and more uniform. 
In this “blind” tasting, it’s a chance to see for yourself.  £10 admission

Tuesday, 26th June 2007:  Champagne or Sparkling?
Is Champagne over-rated and over-priced?  We’ll test some leading brands against some top-notch sparkers and see what comes out top.  To avoid prejudice, the wines will be served “blind”.
Due to the higher cost, entry fee will be £15 per head

Friday, 20th July 2007:  Bin Ends Annual Barbecue
Usual venue (Margaret Hale’s back garden), great food and wine, and a great chance
to socialise.  All profits will be set against the wines for the Annual Dinner. 
Tickets will be on sale nearer the time, at  £15 per head.

Tuesday, 21st August 2007 (one week earlier than usual):  Rare and curious whites.
Fed up with the ubiquitous Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio?  Then this tasting is a
perfect opportunity for you to try something really different and unusual. 
£10 entry fee per head

Tuesday, 18th September 2007 (one week earlier than usual): The Reds of South-West France
An opportunity to explore a curious patchwork of appellations, with some familiar and
not so familiar wine styles.  £10 entry fee per head.

And a little further in advance … for your diary ….

Friday, 25th January 2008 – Bin Ends Annual Dinner
at Opus Restaurant in Birmingham. 
Tickets will be on sale later in the year

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com