South Africa has a long wine history, dating back as far as the mid-17th Century, when the Cape was first developed by the Dutch East India Company as a refreshment post.  Over the next 350 years, winemaking has undergone a chequered past, emerging at the end of the apartheid era, with inexpensive, high volume wine aimed at the UK supermarkets.

Sourcing 10 wines, from the independent Wine Society and Tanners, we tasted a comprehensive range of varieties and styles.  At the end of the evening, it gave us all a more confident appreciation as to where the country was at, and where it was going.

1.         The Society’s Chenin Blanc (£4.25 The Wine Society) Western Cape

In 15 years, South Africa has moved from an 85%/15% white/red ratio, to 66/33.  Chenin Blanc is still the most widespread white grape, and this example typifies a fresh, clean, easy drinking style.  It had crisp quince-pear fruit, with a touch of spice.  Generally well-received (CHP 16, Bin Ends 2 votes)

2.         Rijk’s Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc 2003 Tulbagh, North of Paarl
            (£8.95 The Wine Society)

Pronounced “Rakes”, this is altogether a more sophisticated food wine, with spicy oak adding complexity.  About 60% of the blend is aged in French oak, but the effect was subtle.  Initially pungent, with white grapefruit, ripe melon and pear flavours, it retained crispness, developing creamy textures and light toast.  This was restrained winemaking at its best (CHP 18, Bin Ends 4 votes).

The problem with Chenin is that, unlike Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, it does not have the same recognition.  Winemakers are therefore increasingly turning to these latter varieties, initially Chardonnay, but subsequently Sauvignon Blanc, which is emerging as a star performer.

3.            Warwick Chardonnay 2003 (£8.50 The Wine Society) Stellenbosch

A leading Stellenbosch estate, producing an admirably restrained style, spending as little as 4 months in oak.  It retained freshness, with light buttery citrus flavours, but was still full and rich.  Excellent winemaking.  (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 6 votes)

4.         La Petite Ferme Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (Tanners £7.95) Franschhoek

Almost Sancerre-like, with grassy flavours of blackcurrant leaf and lime.  Light and fresh, but with a bitter finish, although in this instance not offputting.  Well-balanced, with finesse and polish.  (CHP 17, Bin Ends 10 votes)
5.         The Society’s Cape Red (£4.95 The Wine Society)

The Cape Blend is generally a mixture of three or more varieties, but generally includes a proportion of Pinotage.  This also has Merlot and Shiraz and was intended to be representative of a cheap quaffing red.  There was some spicy jammy fruit, which faded quickly from view, to leave a peppery finish with a hint of metal (CHP 14+, Bin Ends …)

6.            Kanonkop Kadette 2003 (£6.95 The Wine Society) Stellenbosch

Winemaker Beyers Truter is respected as the “King of  Pinotage”, and this Cape blend has Cabernet and Merlot added to 60% Pinotage.  Whilst there was noticeable eucalyptus, indicating some barrel age, and some juicy plum and black fruit, this really didn’t deliver.  The finish was short with a metal taint.  (CHP 15, Bin Ends 0)

7.            L’Avenir Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (The Wine Society £9.50) Stellenbosch

Winemaker Francois Naude has a reputation for top-class Cabernet, now South Africa’s most planted red variety.  Matured in French oak, the structure is softened with a dash of Merlot.

This had lovely structure, with fresh spicy blackcurrant flavours infused with eucalyptus and smoked wood, followed by a good length of finish.  Polished, it perhaps did not quite live up to its price-tag. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 3 votes)

If Sauvignon Blanc is the great white hope, then Shiraz is the red equivalent.  South Africa has the ideal Mediterranean climate for this variety to fulfil its potential, and achieve a halfway-house between the Northern Rhone and South Australia.

8.            Kaapzicht Shiraz 2003 Stellenbosch (£9.50 Tanners)

The winery was established by the Steytler family in 1984.  They make a generous plumy Shiraz from fully-mature grapes, which are oak-aged for 17 months.  It’s gamey, with fresh blackcurrant flavours, firm tannins and a rich, smooth, silky finish.  A complete all-rounder. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 8 votes).

South Africa’s flagship varietal is Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, first made in 1925.  The original idea was to sell it as a beefed-up Burgundy, marketed as South African Hermitage.

The result is a full-bodied red, with jammy fruit, but can be rubbery with a bitter, metallic taint.  It is all too often difficult to source good examples and even Tanners own notes state that “mercifully, Pinotage is losing out to Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz”.

9.            Kaapzicht Pinotage 2004 Stellenbosch (£9.60 Tanners)

Big and alcoholic, the fruit is late-picked when fully ripe.  In the mouth, there were flavours of plums and prunes.  It’s full bodied, spicy rich but silky smooth.  This was excellent.  (CHP 18, Bin  Ends 11 votes)

10.            Warwick Trilogy 2002 Stellenbosch (£11.50 Wine Society)

An elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, by winemaker Mike Ratcliffe.  Finely structured, there were dark cherry flavours with spice and soft tannins, with a touch of caramel on the finish.  It was complex, with lovely balance and structure, and a super length of finish.  The star of the show!  (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 14 votes)

Tonight’s tasting broke down a lot of barriers and the wines won a number of plaudits. Only two disappointed but, encouragingly, many in the group would now go out and buy a South African wine, whereas this was not the case beforehand.

COMING UP …..

October 2006

Spain Beyond Rioja:  A great opportunity to discover great, but little known, Spanish wine from up-and-coming regions.  Spain probably has the most hi-tech wineries in Western Europe and using vines from old rootstock, can produce some amazing wine at remarkable value.  Book your place now!

November 2006

Bordeaux – price, quality and vintage variations.  Clive has returned hot-foot from La Foire Aux Vins, the annual French Supermarket fine-wine sale, with some stunning simple claret and Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux.  We’ll be looking at differences in price and quality, with a mini-horizontal focus on 2003, and a vertical assessment of vintage variations back to 1999.  Not to be missed!

December 2006

Understanding Port:  A look at the different Port styles on the UK market, from simple Ruby to aged Tawny, accompanied by some seasonal nibbles.

January 2006

Bin Ends Annual Dinner at Opus Birmingham:  Balances are now due, please see Margaret Hale at the tasting, or e.mail her on: margaret.hale@tiscali.co.uk

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com