This evening’s tasting was a brief exploration of lesser-known white wine styles from South-West and Southern France.  The emphasis was on good value, easy-to-drink whites, but also to examine some of the lesser known grape varieties.

The first area was South-West France, where the wines were sourced from Gascony, from the region’s three leading producers.  Following a decline in the popularity of Armagnac, this region has reinvented itself as a “white table-wine” producing area, using such varieties as Ugni Blanc and Colombard, both widely used for brandy.  In addition, Gascony has moved with the times to stay competitive, and  plantings of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are now widespread.

Gascony enjoys a cooler, wetter Atlantic climate which enables the wines to retain acidity and freshness, ideal for white winemaking.  The Languedoc, however, has a hotter, drier Mediterranean climate, where acidity can be a problem.

Although the d’Oc is also a major producer of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, there are a host of more obscure Mediterranean varieties including Viognier, Vermentino and Bourboulenc, amongst others (bearing in mind that the Languedoc is essentially a red wine region).

The Wines

1,            Tariquet Ugni Blanc/Colombard 2005 (£4.25 Wine Society)
Two classic Armagnac varieties turned to good advantage to produce a crisp, floral, elderflower and vegetal dry white, that’s light and easy to drink.  Very popular (Bin Ends 6 votes, CHP 16)

2.         Cotes de St. Mont Les Vignes Retrouvees 2004 (£4.95 Wine Society)
A blend of local varieties, including Gros Manseng and the rare Arrufiac and Petit Courbu.  This was richer and fuller, with some greengage fruit, but disappointed due to a heavy dose of sulphur.  Not liked, but a wine I have previously enjoyed on several occasions.  A bad bottle methinks! (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3.            Domaine Pellehaut 2005 “Harmonie” VdP Cotes de Gascogne (£4.95 Sichel)
A blend of Gros Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard, rounded out to a creamy texture with some Chardonnay.  Crisp, fresh, yet balanced with good texture and weight.  Very classy and the most popular wine of the night (Bin Ends 9 votes, CHP 17+)

4.            Picpoul de Pinet 2004 Ctx Languedoc (£5.75 Wine Society)
The Mediterranean equivalent of Muscadet, great with oysters and mussels.  It’s very crisp, with green fruit and slightly spicy.  Never expensive, this is a good example (Picpoul is also known as Folle Blanche, which is common along the Atlantic coast, particularly for Brandy).  (Bin Ends 4 votes, CHP 16+

5.            Domaine Cros Minervois Blanc 2005 (£6.50 purchased direct)
A blend of Bourbolenc (Malvasia), Vermentino (Rolle), Grenache Blanc, Muscat and Picpoul.  On the nose, there was perfumed ripe pear, with a melange of fruit flavours on the palate, including peach, apricot and apple, seasoned lightly with spice.  It’s rich and full, and is a superb match with Mediterranean fish and Asiatic or spiced dishes.  (Bin Ends 2 votes, CHP 16+)

6.            Muscat Sec 2004 Dme de Barroubio (£6.95 WineSociety)
Generally used for dessert wines, this actually gave the impression it was sweet.  There were scents of honey, white flowers, apples and grapes, with similar flavours on the palate, but essentially, it’s a dry style.  The initial “attack” was good, but it disappeared all too quickly in the mouth.  Most were confused by the style and it was not liked.  (Bin Ends ) votes, CHP 14)

7.         Dme de Gourgazaud 2005 Viognier VdP d’Oc (£8.50 WineSociety)
In my opinion one of the best examples of Viognier from the Languedoc, but this bottle was marred by a touch too much sulphur.  Nevertheless, there were classic flavours of lime-blossom and apricot kernels, infused with spice.  It’s rich and full-bodied, and is an excellent accompaniment to spicy dishes, such as   Chicken Korma and has an affinity with crab.  (Bin Ends 1 vote, CHP 16).

8.         Cote Tariquet Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc Gascony (£6.50 Wine Society)
This was born out of a mistake when a batch of Chardonnay grapes was accidentally tipped into a vat of Sauvignon Blanc, and were co-fermented.  The result was so good that Yves Grassa has continued to reproduce the error every vintage.  It’s full-bodied, with white grapefruit and spice flavours, with a touch of residual sweetness on the finish.  A commercial style, it proved very popular.  (Bin Ends 7 votes, CHP 16).

9.         Les Dernieres Grives 2004 (£14 sourced direct)
The South-West has a tradition of sweet wines, in particular from the Petit Manseng variety.  This example is late-picked, hence the name which translates as “the last thrushes”.  Not overly sweet, this  had fruit flavours of honeyed pineapple, melon and lychee, given interest with some incisive acidity and spice.  Long and rich in the mouth, this revealed good complexity (Bin Ends 1 vote, CHP 16+)

In spite of a small attendance,  those who attended proclaimed that this was a most enjoyable and worthwhile evening, and the wines, with two notable exceptions, were surprisingly well-received.

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com