This month, our journey through Italy continued, taking in East-Central, Southern and the islands of Sardinia and Sicily.

Central Italy – the Marches

1.       Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classic Superiore Umani Ronchi (£7.99 Waitrose)
Verdicchio is the name of this much under-appreciated grape, and is actually capable of ageing.  The best come from single-vineyard sites.

a)       2004 – light, fresh and crisp, with honeyed pear fruit and a nutty finish.  Good balance.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote).

b)      2003 – Fuller, more golden and rich, but lacked refreshing acidity.  (CHP 15)

2.    Vigna Corvino Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2004 (£6.50 Wine Society)

The grape variety Montepulciano, generally makes quaffing wine in  prodigious quantities.  When yields are kept in check, wines of surprising quality can emerge.

a)  Oodles of juicy plums and cherry fruit, with firm tannins and spice.  Needed decanting, but by the end of the evening, started to open out and deliver a smooth, rich finish. 
(CHP 16+).

Sardinia

Once a major wine-producing region, it was decimated by phylloxera in the 19th century.  The major grape varieties were introduced by the Spanish, as it was occupied by them during the Middle Ages.

3.       Vermentino di Sardegna 2004 Iocalia (£6.50 Wine Society)

Tasted of minerally spicy apricot and pear fruit, with nuts on a long-lasting finish.  It had lovely balance and subtle flavours.  Excellent value (CHP 17, Bin Ends 7 votes)

4.       Marchesa Cannonau di Sardegna 2004 (£5.75 Wine Society)

Cannonau is known as Garnacha in Spain and Grenache in France, and is a popular Mediterranean red grape.  Made from old bush vines, this had fresh cherry fruit, with a little added spice and pepper.  For me, it was a bit short on the finish.
(CHP 15, Bin Ends 2 votes)

Sicily

5.       Canaletto Nero d’Avola/Syrah 2003 IGT Sicilia (Waitrose £6.49)

Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s main red variety, but can be over acidic and is best blended, in this case, with Syrah.   A commercial style, with the fruit a touch rubbery, there were flavours of black plums, spice and bitter chocolate on the finish.  No more than pleasant (CHP 15, Bin Ends 3 votes)

Southern Italy

6.    Fiano di Avellino 2005  Feudi de San Gregoria (£9.99 Wine Society)

From Campania, this is Southern Italy’s top dry white.
Estery, with flavours of bubble gum, tasting confected.  Sweet fruit, rich and full, this was desperately disappointing.  Perhaps it may improve in bottle.  Previous vintages had the richness and complexity of a dry Gewurztraminer. (CHP 14 Bin Ends 6 votes).

7.       Primitivo di Puglia San Marzano 2003 (£4.75 Wine Society)

Apulia, or Puglia, produces twice as much wine as Australia, and if it were a country, would be the world’s seventh largest wine-producer.  About 80% is red, but less then 5% is DOC.  Most is bulk wine made by large-volume co-operatives.

Primitivo has recently been demonstrated to be the same grape variety as Zinfandel in California.

Full, rich and alcoholic, this had generous bramble fruit, infused with spice and a sweetish finish.  Good value.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends 3 votes).

8.       Copertino Eloquenzia 2001 (£4.95 Wine Society)

From the Negroamaro grape, this had classic “black bitter” flavours of black plums, spice and dark chocolate.  There was remarkable complexity, with a pleasing dry finish.  Excellent value.  (CHP 16+. Bin Ends 5 votes).

9.       Brindisi Rosso Vigna Flaminio 2001 (£5.75 Wine Society)
A characterful blend of Negroamaro, Montepulciano and Malvasia Nera.  There were flavours of plums, balsam and a touch of rubber, with a good length of finish.  Interesting (CHP 16).

10.   Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva 1998 Danese (c £5.50 Ciaobella)

Also from Puglia, this is a blend of Uva di Troia.  A full-bodied red, this was raisiny and madeirised, tasting like an over-rich fruit cake.  There were nuts and black chocolate, but the wine was out of condition. (CHP 10)

11.       Armand Aglianico del Vulture 2001 Alovini (£9.95 Wine Society)
There is only one wine worthy of note in Basilicata, and this is it!  Aglianico, derived from the Green “Hellenic”, makes a wine with great structure and is a grape capable of ageing.  It had sweet, ripe black plum fruit, ripe tannins, finishing on black chocolate.  Complex and satisfying, this can age for up to 10 years. (CHP 18, Bin Ends 9 votes).

12.   Duca d’Aragona Salento Rosso 19998 Candida (£11.95 Wine Society)
80% Negroamaro, 20% Montepulciano.  Aged in French barrique for 12 months.  From Apulia.  Wonderfully rich and full-flavoured, with notes of oak, smoke and toast to support the tannic black fruit.  Savoury, complex, with a lovely length of finish. Altogether delicious, and the wine of the night.  (CHP 18+, Bin Ends 9 votes).

Meetings take place on every last Tuesday of the month (with one or two exceptions when it’s a Bank Holiday.  Venue:  St. Augustine’s Church Hall,
No. 9, Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston (opposite the church), 7.30 pm start
Please don’t forget to book your place for each Tuesday tasting
by sending a email with names and numbers to binends@birminghamplus.com

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com