Along with France, Italy is the world’s leading wine producer, but also a Jekyll and Hyde character.  On the one hand, it makes vast quantities of characterless, bulk wine on an industrial scale and, on the other, the most exquisite hand-crafted wines.

With the advent of modern technology and wine-making practices, Italy has transformed itself in the past 25 years.  The wine laws, based on the French model, were developed in the 1960s and are as follows:

1.         Vino di Tavolo (VdT) – basic table wines
2.            Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) “country wine”, but often used to represent progressive winemaking using “international” varieties such as Cabernet or Merlot, not allowed under DOC.
3.            Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) – a protected place name using prescribed varieties, etc.
4.         DOCG (G for Garantita) – reserved for the most prestigious wine regions.

Although Italy is diverse in terms of climate, soils and grape varieties, there are three common characteristics:

a.         The wines have high acidity, firm tannins or astringency to cut through oily or fatty dishes.
b.         They are fermented to dryness – so they taste better with food.
c.         The fruit flavours are often subdued, so they work better with a meal.

In the first of a two-part series, we looked at three classic regions in North and Central Italy.

Piedmont

The Piedmont is often compared to Burgundy, with small-holdings and wines of single grape varieties.  Apart from the generics, Barolo or Barbaresco (made with Nebbiolo), most wines are labelled first with their grape variety, then place name.

1,         Cortese 2004 Alasia (£4.75 Wine Society (TWS)
From the region’s leading co-operative, Cortese is the principal white grape used for dry wine (Muscat is used for sweet, Asti Spumante which is much better known).

This had clean, pear fruit, with a touch of spice.  An excellent quaffer, it was a touch short on the finish, but well priced.  (CHP 15, Bin Ends 9 votes).

2.            Barbera d’Asti 2003 Araldica (£4.75 TWS)
The second most planted red variety after Sangiovese in all of Italy, Barbera can be overly acidic, but works particularly well with tomato-based dishes.

By the same co-operative as above, this had characters of acidic plums, with spice and soft drying tannins.  Again, a little short on finish, it did not show as well when last tasted in January (CHP 15)

3.         Langhe Nebbiolo 2003 GD Vaijra (£14.95 Valvona & Crolla, Edinburgh)
Arguably Italy’s greatest red variety, Nebbiolo is even more temperamental than Pinot Noir.  Most Barolo or Barbaresco tends to be fairly commercial under £15 a bottle, so it is often better to go for a Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba from a top grower.

There was bottle variation on the two we selected for tasting.  The better had more grip, with plum flavours and notes of tar and roses.  There was a slight astringency, but this followed through to a nutty finish.  Not an easy wine to like. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 1 vote).

The Veneto

Best known for the industrial quantities of Soave and Valpolicella, the key is to source a good producer.

4.         Soave Classico 2004 Coffele (£6.50 (TWS)
From the Garganega grape, this has classic green-pear fruit, with an almond finish.  It had more richness, better balance and a more impressive finish than the Cortese (CHP 17, Bin Ends 4 votes).

5.            Valpolicella  Classico 2004 Allegrini (£6.50  TWS)
By leading producer Allegrini, this is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Monara grapes.  Juicy and fresh, this tasted of cherries with a hint of bubble gum, followed by a soft, nutty finish.  Italy’s answer to Beaujolais.  (CHP 16)

6.         Villalta Single Vineyard “I Comunali” Amarone Classico 1998/2001 (M&S £14.99)
Made from selected bunches of dried grapes, it’s a style of wine the Italians term a “meditation wine”.  The winemaker is Carlo Speri.
The 1998 tasted of burnt rubber and burnt cherry, softening out to a full, rich finish.  It had good weight and mouthfeel, but lacked fruit (CHP 15).

The 2001 tasted of smoky cherries, with better fruit and structure, again with a full, rich finish, but marred by too much sulphur.  (CHP 16, Bin Ends (for both) 9 votes.

Umbria/Tuscany

Umbria’s most renowned white is Orvieto, which can be from a blend of Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto and others.  Grechetto is an ancient variety, possibly originating from Greece.

7.            Grechetto Umbria 2004 Barberani (TWC £7.50)

Full and fat, tasting of ripe pears with notes of fennel, and an almond nutty finish.  A touch too flabby and alcoholic (CHP 15)

The classic Tuscan red, Chianti, is based on Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely grown varietal.  Chianti and Chianti Classico are two separate regions, and the best generally come from Classico.

8.         Chianti Leonardo 2004 (£5.50 TWS)
Made by a leading co-operative, this had delicious flavours of black cherries and spice.  It had good structure and was fresh with a nutty finish, showing some remarkable complexity for an inexpensive wine (CHP 17, Bin Ends 10 votes).
9.         Villa Cafaggio 2003 Chianti Classico (£9.99 M&S)

Lovely fruit emphasis, tasting of juicy red cherries, seasoned wth spice and a pleasing soft finish (CHP 17, Bin Ends 5 votes).

10.       Fontodi 2002 Chianti Classico (£12.50 TWS)
Modern barrique-aged Chianti Classico at its best.  There were predominant flavours of black cherries and spice, evolving to a nutty finish.  The texture was smooth and silky, and the wine well polished.  Delicious (CHP 18, Bin Ends 9 votes).

The Chiantis stole the show on the night, and proved what good value well made modern Chianti can offer.  The Amarone was popular too, but surprisingly, the Piemontese Cortese was very well-received.

COMING UP:

Meetings take place on every last Tuesday of the month (with one or two exceptions when it’s a Bank Holiday.  Venue:  St. Augustine’s Church Hall,
No. 9, Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston (opposite the church), 7.30 pm start
Please don’t forget to book your place for each Tuesday tasting
by sending a email with names and numbers to binends@birminghamplus.com

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com