The subject of Bordeaux can appear intimidating to a novice wine-lover.  Old  bores drone on about first growths which are only affordable to the absurdly wealthy or, at the other extreme,  they’re thin, weedy and with far too much tannin.  These, though, are only the extremes of a fine wine producing region, that literally has thousands of great wine producers and petits chateaux waiting to be discovered.

Reduced to bite-size pieces, Bordeaux is easy to understand.  The reds are combinations of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with minor additions of Cabernet France, Malbec or Petit Verdot.  The whites, too, are blended, based on Sauvignon Blanc or Semillon, sometimes supplemented with Muscadelle.

The proportions of the blends may be decided by the wine producer, but are often dictated by the “terroir”.  Bordeaux itself is divided neatly into three regions, known as the Left Bank, Right Bank and Entre-Deux-Mers (EDM).  The Left Bank, to the west of the Garonne and Gironde, is dominated by free draining gravel soils, whereas the Right Bank has limestone-clay soils, which are moisture-retentive.  The EDM, between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, follows similar patterns to the Right Bank.

The free-draining soils are preferred by the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon and the clay-based soils by Merlot.  Hence, the Left Bank wines are Cabernet dominated, whereas Merlot predominates in the other sub-regions.  With more pronounced tannins, Cabernet Sauvignon tends to produce wines which are leaner and more structured, with blackcurrant flavours.

Merlot is rounder and softer, with flavours of plums and leather.  It tends to give more forward, easy-drinking wines, in contrast to Cabernet Sauvignon which is renowned for its longevity, but toughness in its youth.

The signature of Bordeaux reds, commonly referred to as Claret, is tannin.  Significantly, though, the style has altered over the last 10-15 years.  The trend today is to favour Merlot, producing softer tannins, but the grapes are now picked later and undergo more sophisticated  vinification.  Stalky green tannins seem a thing of the past.

White wine production is focussed on the EDM and across the Left Bank into Graves.  To the south of the region, particularly in Barsac and Sauternes, the production of sweet wine is favoured.  The fashion is currently for Sauvignon Blanc, but the addition of the waxy citrus Semillon can always add something extra to the blend, removing some of the aggressiveness of the former.

The Wines

Generic Bordeaux accounts for around 50% of total production, and although it can be made anywhere in the entire region, most comes from Entre-Deux-Mers, both red and white.

1.      Yvecourt Bordeaux Blanc 2004 Sauvignon (Tesco/Oddbins £4.99)

Lively and fresh, with some elderflower and gooseberry finish.  A bit too aggressive on the finish, let down by a bitter after-taste.  An honest quaffer. (CHP 15)

2.      Chateau Bonnet 2004 Entre-Deux-Mers (Sauvignon/Semillon) (£5.50 Sainsbury)

Not as assertive as above, as the Semillon has given the grassy Sauvignon element a richer, citrus overtone.  Still fresh, but rounder and better balanced. (CHP 16+)

3.    Good Ordinary Claret, Berry Bros & Rudd (c £5.50)

Lightly flavoured, with juicy plum fruit, spice and a soft finish, which is a little short.  Is exactly what it says on the label.  (CHP 15).

4.      Premius Merlot Cabernet 2002 AOC Bordeaux (£6.99 Tesco)

This benefitted greatly from decanting an hour or two before tasting.  There were juicy plums with notes of blackberries, soft tannins and a rich, smooth dry finish.  A little overpriced, but well made.  Worth buying if on promotion (CHP 16+).

5.      Dourthe No. 1 2002 AOC Bordeaux (£7.49 Oddbins)

Hard, pinched and mean.  Way overpriced.  (CHP 14)

6.      Chateau Tour de Mirambeau 2001 AOC Bordeaux Superieur (£7.49 Oddbins)

From the regarded Despagne stable, there were juicy plums, notes of cedar and earthy tannins.  The intensity of colour was much improved and the structure showed good balance.  Pleasing (CHP 16+).

* The difference between Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur is that the yields are lower and alcohol levels higher.

The Right Bank

The best-known communes are St. Emilion and Pomerol, but the “Cotes”, the St. Emilion and Pomerol satellites, as well as Fronsac, can produce exceptional value, particularly from the Petits Chateaux.

7.      Chateau du Moulin Noir 2000 Lussac-St-Emilion (£11.49 Oddbins)

Benefitting from decanting, this had lovely concentration, with flavours of juicy black plums, dried leaves and tobacco.  It had a velvety texture, a good mouthfeel and good earthy characters.  A super wine.  (CHP 17+).

8.      Chat. La Croix Canon 2000 Canon-Fronsac (£9.95 Wine Society)

A wine with excellent weight and structure.  This had juicy plums, tannins and spice, a good finish and length.  This will improve and soften in the next 2 years (CHP 17).

9.    Ch. Milaud-Montlabert 2002 St. Emilion Grand Cru (c£10 n/a in UK)

Acidic with notes of fennel.  Little character, harsh tannins, lacking fruit and depth.  Old-fashioned winemaking at its worst.  The winemaker has no concept of reducing yields or selecting ripe fruit before the grapes are pressed.  (CHP 13)

10.  Ch. Pontet-Fumet 2000 St. Emilion Grand Cru (£14.99 Bibendum).
Very immediate.  Sweet plums infused with charred toast, spice and soft earthy tannins.  Rounded and fully developed, perhaps a touch too much oak.  (CHP 17)

The Left Bank

To the south of Bordeaux, the communes are Graves (white or red) and Pessac-Leognan, reserved for the best part of northern Graves.  To the north, there is the Medoc, the superior Haut-Medoc, and the 6 communes, St. Julien, Margaux, Pauillac, St. Estephe, Listrac and Moulis.

In addition to the AOC label, there may be other classifications, such as Cru Classé or Cru Bourgeois.

11.  Ch de Gaillat 2000 Graves (£9.50 Tanners)

Light raspberry and berry flavours infused with tobacco.  There were pleasing drying tannins, but the flavours lacked concentration, depth and weight.  Pleasant, if not slightly old-fashioned, but still highly quaffable. 
(CHP 16+)

12.      Chateau La Tour de By 1999 Cru Bourgeois Medoc (£11.95 Tanners)

Classic nose of stalky dried leaves, with restrained structured black fruits on the palate, enlivened with earthy tannins and spice.  Good backbone, and splendid marriage of understated fruit and oak.  Classic claret (CHP 17).

13.      Chateau Coufran 1996 Cru Bourgeois Haut-Medoc (c£11.50)

Delightful, fully mature claret, with a higher proportion of Merlot due to clay content of gravel soils.  Known as the Pomerol of the Medoc, this had an intoxicating bouquet of plums, cedar and cigars.  There was a lovely balance and structure, with a fine, long finish.  Drinking at its best.  (CHP 18).

14.      Chateau du Courneau 1998 Margaux (c£15)

Elegant, supple and stylish.  There was a lovely purity to the cassis fruit, enlivened with spicy tannins, developing into a fine finish.  Very feminine and svelte.  (CHP 18).

15. Chateau de Faugeres 1999 St. Emilion Grand Cru (£35 per magnum)

Rich-coloured, with flavours of plums, tobacco leaf, and hints of aniseed enriched with earthy tannins.  There was a lovely texture and structure.  A three-dimensional wine with a beautiful finish.  A perfect example of modern St. Emilion at its best  (CHP 19).

Summary

Sample portions were, sadly, small, but thanks to a record turnout, we managed to taste an astounding 15 wines on the night.  The quality really kicked in at about the £10 market, and after decanting, many of the wines were exceptional.

Please note my website link:
www.clives-wines.com