Introduction

Famous for its warm, generous and spicy reds, the Rhone Valley starts just south of Lyon, stretching for 125 miles between Vienne and Avignon.  Although essentially red wine country, the region also produces some interesting whites and rosés, which are now achieving wider recognition.

In fact, the Rhone Valley falls into two distinct sub-regions: the North from Vienne to Valence; and the south from Montelimar to Avignon.  In the North, the vineyard areas are much more confined due to the nature of the steep-sided valleys, and the soils are different, too, with a predominance of granite and schist.  In contrast, the South has more gentle hills and wide open spaces, with a more variable mix of soils including clay and limestone.

Perhaps the primary distinguishing feature is the climate.  Although both regions share the ferocious cold blast of the Mistral wind, the North enjoys a drier, continental climate, with hot summers and cold winters.  The Southern climate is distinctly Mediterranean, with equally hot summers, but milder, wetter winters.  It is also a region more prone to violent storms.

The differences between the two regions can be observed as you travel from north to south.  To the north of Montelimar, the vegetation is deciduous, but to the south, it changes to Mediterranean evergreens.

Significantly, as the climate is less variable in the north, it is safer for the vigneron to stick to a single variety.  Here Syrah is used almost exclusively for reds, and the main white varieties are Viognier and Marsanne.  In the south, the vinegrower requires a wider portfolio, and in fact, up to 23 grape varieties are permitted. Southern Rhone reds (and whites) are invariably blends, but here the focus is on Grenache.  This can be superb when yields are kept under control, but thin and jammy when they are not.

Appellations (AOCs)

In terms of overall production, the Southern Rhone accounts for around 95%, and inevitably, the quality level is more basic.  It is therefore likely that, if the label states Cotes du Rhone, it’s from the South.

The next step up is the AOC Cotes du Rhone Villages, and generally, these wines should have greater depth of character and quality.  Some 95 communes are entitled to this AOC, but 16 are allowed to use a specific name.  Look out for Vinsobres, Cairanne, Rasteau, Sablet, Seguret, Valreas and Chusclan.

The third rung of the ladder are the Southern Rhone “Cru”, with the Rosé Tavel, and Lirac on the left bank, and Vacqueyras on the right.  Better still is Gigondas, just one step below the most famous Cru, Chateauneuf du Pape.

By contrast, the Northern Rhone is the true aristocrat, as all the AOCs have Cru status.  The lowest ranking for white is St. Peray, and for reds, Crozes-Hermitage and St. Joseph.  Next up the pecking order is Condrieu and the monopole Chateau Grillet AOC for whites, and Cornas, Cote Rotie and Hermitage for reds.  Confusingly, Crozes, St. Joseph and Hermitage can also be white.

The French concept of terroir is at its most poignant in the Northern Rhone.  Although the river flows in a north-to-south direction, it meanders along its path.  Bearing in mind the added influence of the Mistral, the best locations are in south-facing exposures, but sheltered from the wind.

Choosing French Wine

There are three main criteria for choosing a French wine; producer, AOC and vintage.  Above all, the most important is the producer.

a)  There are 3 different types of producer, as follows:

1.      The independent winemaker, who grows his own vines and makes his own wine at his estate.  These producers have total control from vine to bottle, and are often a guide to the best quality.  Only these properties are allowed to use the name “Domaine” (in Rhone) or Chateau (say, in Bordeaux).

2.     The negociant is a merchant who buys in parcels of wine, blends them, then relabels them for resale.  Some of the best may buy in grapes or own their own vineyards, and amongst the  best known in the Rhone Valley are Guigal, Chapoutier and Jaboulet-Aine.

3.     The co-operatives buy their grapes from their members, and produce and market the wine.  The quality tends to be at a lower level, because once they have sold their grapes, the vignerons have no further interest.

b)     Many of the wines from the top AOCs are no longer affordable, or if they are, the quality can be indifferent.  The best advice is to drop down a peg on the AOC ladder.  For example, many properties are now producing better St. Joseph since relocating their vineyards higher up the slopes, and it’s an affordable alternative to Hermitage.

Similarly, in the south, too often, cheap Chateauneuf du Pape can be dilute and even Gigondas is getting expensive.  More often, it’s better buying a good “village” wine from, say, Vacqueyras, Rasteau or Valreas.

From a relatively southern climate, the vintage variation is not so significant, say as in Bordeaux or Burgundy. Apart from a disastrous vintage in 2002, ruined by storms and floods, vintages over the past 5-6 years have remained consistent.

The Tasting:

1.      Dme de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone-Villages Seguret 2004 (Rosé) (£5.00)
Note the wine is from an independent winemaker, and from a named village in the Southern Rhone.  This rose is made from black grapes with a short period of skin contact in the must, and had a healthy salmon-pink colour.  On the palate there was strawberry fruit, lifted by minerals and pepper.  There was good concentration and flavour and proved very popular (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 9 votes)

2.        Chapoutier “Belleruche” Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2003 (£6.00)

A medium-bodied white with minerally peach and apricot fruit, let down by a bitter finish (CHP 15)

3.     St. Peray “Les Bialeres” 1999 Cuilleron, Gaillard  & Villard (£11)
A mature white by three top producers acting as negociants.  Almost golden in colour, the wine was past its best, and showing signs of oxidation.  Nevertheless, it was rich, minerally with some apple and cream, and a long finish.  (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 1 vote)

4.        “French Connection” Cotes du Rhone 2004 (£5.00)
A generic “branded” Cotes du Rhone, that was much better than anticipated.  It had positive smoky, cherry fruit, with spice, developing well in the mouth, with a rich finish (CHP 16).

5.     “Les Sens de Syrah” Chateau Beauchene 2003 (£6.00)
A Syrah blend, with a strong dark colour. Slightly reductive nose with rubber and mercaptans.  Swirling the glass revealed soft textured hedgerow fruit, firm tannins and a black chocolate finish. Quite satisfying.  (CHP 16+)

6.     Clos Petite Bellane “Les Echalas” Valreas Cotes du Rhone Villages 1999 (£10)
A deep, dark, rich colour, with offputting reductive notes of rubber and mercaptan.  It’s a big, rich, earthy style, with black fruits, spice and a velvety texture, but marred by rubber and rotten eggs.  (CHP 15)

7.        Guigal Gigondas 2001 (£10.00)

Whereas in the Northern Rhone, barriques (small barrels) are used to age Syrah, in the south, old large wooden vats (foudres) are traditionally used to age Grenache.  This allows gentle oxidation, without importing woody characters.  This wine was simply a beautiful example of a Southern Rhone cru, drinking at its best.  Aromatic, with flavours of gently cooked and baked jam fruit, there was spice and pepper, supported by soft tannins.  It just lingered in the mouth for ages, and overall, had lovely balance and structure.  My wine of the night.  (CHP 18, Bin Ends 10 votes)

8.        Domaine du Pavillon-Mercurol 1999 Crozes-Hermitage (£10)

Another domaine bottling and again, the quality shows through.   Still youthful, there were dense black fruits, supported by firm tannins and structure.  The texture, though, was like silk and velvet, with a lovely dollop of black fruit and chocolate on the finish.  A wine to age gracefully over a 10 year period. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 6 votes)

9.     M. Chapoutier Cornas 1999 (£14.50)
Unfortunately, the most expensive wine of the night was marred by slight cork taint.  Nevertheless, this was classic “cool climate” Syrah, with aromas of rose petals, menthol and blackberry fruit.  There were also unwanted notes of dank woodland.  On the palate, there was a juicy earthiness to the fruit quality, but also dampness.  There was enough to realise the potential, but ultimately, our sample disappointed.  (CHP 15+)
          

Next Tastings:

Tuesday, 29th November 2005
“PERUVIAN WINES”
A unique opportunity to taste wines from this obscure South American country.  I’ve asked for their wine consultant to give a presentation.

Tuesday, 20th December 2005
“Wines for Christmas”
An eclectic mix of winestyles for matching with assorted Christmas nosh

All tastings take place at
St. Augustine’s Church Hall, Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston
Start time: 7.30 pm prompt
To avoid disappointment, book early with Tim White
tim@birminghamplus.com