Chardonnay is the international jet-setter of grape varieties.  Originating in Burgundy and Champagne, it seems to be able to adapt well to the climatic conditions, wherever it grows.

The public adore it because of its soft, round, fruity flavours, but winemakers love it because it is so versatile.  Whereas the aromatic varieties such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are “hands off” varieties, generally representing a pure expression of terror, Chardonnay is more malleable.

Firstly, it has an affinity with oak, giving it richness, smoothness and spice, as well as adding flavours of toast, vanilla and butterscotch.  Moreover, winemakers can induce a malolactic fermentation converting green apple acids into buttery milky acids, producing a softer and more rounded wine.

Within its native Chablis, Chardonnay traditionally produces a steely green apple style, but as it moves south to the Cote d’Or, the characters become more citrussy, buttery and nutty.  New World climes tend to be warmer, so develop wines with a range of flavours from melon and peach, to pineapple and tropical fruit.

1.          Domaine des Charmes Chardonnay 2004 VdP du Jardin de la France (£4) (Loire Valley)

A cool climate clean, unoaked style, with lovely flavours of crisp, fresh citrus.  (CHP 15+, Bin Ends 2 votes).

2.          Chardonnay de Pennautier VdP d’Oc 2004 (Languedoc) £4.50)

From a cool, micro-climate, but much further south, the wine was much richer and softer, with pleasant citrus fruit coated with butter (CPH15+, Bin Ends 0 votes)

3.          Masterpeace Chardonnay 2004 Andrew Peace (SE Australia, £4.50)

An Asda special from the Swan Hill/Murray River region in Victoria.  The climate is  arid, and irrigation is required to  produce healthy fruit.  To achieve complexity, Peace picks the crop at three different ripeness levels.  On the palate there was a nice mix of citrus, pineapple and tropical fruit.  The hint of vanilla was achieved by the use of oak planks.  Technically, it’s a very well made wine and showed well (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote).

4.          Chablis William Fevre (Waitrose c£10)

This generic from a top Chablis producer reflected the weight of a hot vintage, but nevertheless, still demonstrated minerally and steely green apple fruit, with a hint of oatmeal. Very rich and full-flavoured, it was voted joint top.  (CHP 17, Bin Ends 7 votes).

5.       Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay 2004 £5.99 (Tesco and others)

This is Burgundy’s attempt to produce a branded wine and is made by a collection of 3 co-operatives.  It’s keenly priced and very successful, showing light citrus lemon fruit, with some crispness, and minerality, rounded off with a hint of butter.  Very pleasing.  (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 4).

6.          Torres Gran Vina Sol Chardonnay 2004 (Spain) (£6.99)

From a warmer climate, this example has received more heavy oak treatment.  It’s richer and fuller, with peach and pineapple fruit, infused with spice and ladled with butter and burnt toffee. Lacking finesse, this was more rounded and personally, I found this clumsy.  (CHP 14, Bin Ends 2 votes).

7.          Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2004 Marlborough (NZ) (£6.99 Majestic and others)

A very clean, modern, fruit-driven style, with vivid bright flavours of apple, citrus and vanilla, rounded off with butter and custard.  Popular with one and all, this scored 17 and collected 7 votes.

8.          Rosemount Diamond Label Chardonnay 2004 (SE Australia) (widely available at £7.50, but usually discounted)

A top-selling big brand, that did little to justify its popularity or price tag.  There was a hint of pineapple and citrus fruit, but there was an over-acidified sharp finish.  A manufactured wine, without personality or flavour (CHP 13, Bin Ends 0 Votes).

9.       “Les Hauts Cloches” Toques et Clochers 2000 AOC Limoux(Languedoc, France, c£8.00)

A Languedoc wine which required the Chardonnay to be oak-aged to achieve AOC status.  It was very rich and buttery, with toast and vanilla overshadowing pineapple fruit.  Lacking freshness, perhaps a little tired, this was a touch too oaky for my palate. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 1 vote).

10.          Reserve Cono Sur Chardonnay 2003 (Chile) (£8.00)

This was smoky with notes of paraffin.  There was some citrus and pineapple fruit, but the taste appeared manufactured.  The winemaking was heavy-handed, and the wine over-acidified.  Actually, it was rather unpleasant.  (CHP 12+, Bin Ends 0 votes)

The wines were generally well-received, and represented a broad-brush appeal to the styles currently available.

Next Tasting:

25th October 2005
A unique opportunity to taste amongst the first Peruvian wines in the UK.    Book early, and please notify Tim via tim@birminghamplus.com in advance.  Usual time and venue
Tickets: £10 per head