A Rosé by any other name, pink wine is fast becoming the latest fashion statement. Sales of the stuff are rocketing, with the market share of all wines sold increasing by more than 60% in the past two years. It now accounts for around 5% of the total UK wine market.

Everyone of a certain age will recall with some embarrassment drinking Mateus Rosé, and for some time, pink wine has been regarded as totally naff. Nevertheless, there is a new breed of Rosé wines which are young, fresh, easy to drink, but also dry and so suited to an adult market.

Pink wine is made from the juice of black grapes, and the colour is derived from skin contact with the juice. The longer the contact, the darker the hue, but there is never sufficient time for the wine to absorb the tannin.

It’s made to be drunk young and fresh, and should therefore be almost universally drunk in the year following the vintage. At its peak during the summer, the best advice is to finish it off by Christmas, as it certainly doesn’t improve by keeping.

Rosé can be produced from any black grape, and the most significant factors in style are climate and the amount of residual sweetness. Hotter climates tend to produce bigger, more alcoholic wines, cooler ones more elegance and acidity. The sugar levels will generally be determined by the winemaker and, in France, according to the tradition of the region. Confusingly, Cabernet or Rosé d’Anjou are medium, whereas Rosé de la Loire is dry or off-dry.

The wines for tonight’s tasting were chosen to represent various styles from France and the New World, including the famous blush wine from Gallo. To keep a level playing field, the wines were not priced much more than £5, and the results were as follows:

1. Chateau de Putille Rosé de la Loire 2004 (£4.00 Thierry Caumel)
A pale salmon pink, this had minerally, faintly strawberry fruit, with an off-dry finish. I’ve tasted and enjoyed this on many occasions, but this time, the fruit lacked vibrancy and freshness. (CHP 15+)

2. Domaine Houchert 2004 Cotes de Provence £4.95 Wine Society

This, as expected, was altogether richer and fuller. It had good balance and structure, and the fruit initially obscure, made an appearance as the wine opened up. Initially marked at 15+, later revised to 16+. The second most popular wine of the night.

3. Kumala Rosé Western Cape 2004 £4.00

A very popular South African brand, made in a full-blown commercial style. The primary aroma was rose-hip syrup, with juicy sweet plums on the palate. Very one-dimensional, and after one sip, I’d had enough. CHP 14+.

4. Flagstone Semaphore 2004 Western Cape £4.95 Wine Society

Much fresher than the above, with a pronounced off-dry style. This collected 1 Bin Ends vote (CHP 15)

5. Lindemans Bin 35 Rosé Grenache 2004, £4.99

Again, a populist style, with sweet strawberry and creamy flavours. Gauche. (CHP 14).

6. Chateau Bel-Air Perponcher Bordeaux Rosé 2004, £5.25 Wine Society

From Cabernet Sauvignon, this blew everything else out of the water. There were juicy red fruits, cherries, plums and raspberries, given dimension with a squeeze of lemon. A wine with superb balance, finesse and elegance. Bin Ends favourite and universally, the best wine of the night. (CHP 18)

From the same stable, the Despagne Family also make La Tour de Mirambeau, available from Oddbins, £6.99. It should be very good.

7. Fetzer “Valley Oaks” 2003 Rosé California £4.99

From Syrah, this had aromas of perfumed plums and vanilla. Very dark in colour, the wine tasted as if it had had some oak treatment to make it more sophisticated. With a sweet finish, the balance was all awry. Best avoided. (CHP 13).

8. E & J Gallo White Zinfandel 2003 California, £4.99.

Sweet, confected and quite the nastiest wine I have tasted in a while. Why this brand is so popular defies logic. (CHP 10).

9. Domaine de Charmes 2004 Rosé d’Anjou £3.50

In spite of the sweetish finish, this had delicious fresh raspberry fruit and was generally well-liked. All the elements were in balance, and it was well made. CHP 16, Bin Ends second joint favourite.

After a poor showing against the New World in the Sauvignon Blanc tasting, this was France’s opportunity to bite back. They produced easily the three best wines of the night, with the right balance of fruit, minerality and acidity.

Next Tasting:

27th September 2005
Chardonnays from Around the World
See email newsletter for booking details
Tickets: £10 per head