The wine-producing region of Alsace stretches south from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, nestling in the foothills of the Vosges mountains, in north-east France, shadowing the Rhine. There is a strong German influence, sharing many of the same grape varieties, but with a distinctive French twist.

The region enjoys a special continental micro-climate. Lying in a rainshadow, it is the second-driest region in France. The rainfall generally falls in summer, but is followed by an autumnal “Indian Summer”, ensuring that the grapes slowly ripen to full maturity.

The AOC system was approved in the early 1960s, and almost uniquely, the wines are varietal, labelled by the grape name. If none is stipulated, then the wine is almost certainly a blend, in the case of Cremant, Edelzwicker and Klevner.

Between 1975 and 1983, 50 Grand Cru AOCs were established, recognising the influence of terroir. In 1976, Cremant d’Alsace achieved AOC status, and outside of Champagne, is now the most popular sparkling wine in France.

The evening took the broad-brush approach of looking at a wide variety of wine styles that are available from the region.

1. Cremant d’Alsace Mayerling Cave de Turckheim (£6.00).

A popular, clean, fresh and light sparkler, with some floral citrus flavours, a touch of spice and a creamy finish. A well-liked, fun wine (CHP 16, Bin Ends 11 votes).

2. Sylvaner 2003 Medaille d’Or (£2.50)

A French supermarket special, made by a co-operative. Crisp, neutral flavours, with maybe some hay or straw. Surprisingly full, it was let down by a bitter note on the finish (CHP 13, Bin Ends 1 vote)

3. Muscat 2002 Pierre Chanau (£3.50)

Another supermarket wine from the same stable, with a pungent bouquet of green apples and grapes, but underlying sulphur. Crisp, but a touch dilute and hollow, and somewhat light on the finish. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

4. Pinot Blanc Reserve Cave de Turckheim (£6.00)

A positive citrus bouquet, delivered mouthwatering spicy lemon flavours. Well made and clean, but a little short on the finish (CHP 16, Bin Ends 5 votes).

5. Pinot Noir Reserve Cave de Turckheim (£6.00)

A beguiling, perfumed raspberry bouquet, that simply did not deliver on the palate. Yes, it had raspberries and a squeeze of lemon juice, but it just lacked the weight and body required. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 0 votes)

6. Riesling Reserve 2002 Cave de Turckheim (£6.00)

A classic floral lime blossom aroma was followed by steely, minerally, freshly squeezed lime juice on the palate. The wine was still young and had not developed the oily richness to compensate for the acidity. At this stage, the fruit appeared a little unripe and sour, but CHP believes this has ageing potential and will improve (CHP 15 now, 16 in 1-2 years, Bin Ends 1 vote).

7. Pinot Gris St. Hippolyte 2000 Charles Koehly (£6.50)

Our sample was corked. My notes at the property read “minerally with rich tropical fruit flavours and spice, with an excellent finish, 17 marks.” (It scored higher than the property’s Gewurztraminer!). (CHP0, Bin Ends 0 votes)

8. Gewurztraminer St. Hipplyte 2000 Charles Koehly (£6.50)

Full-bodied and distinctive, with aromas of lychee and ginger spice. These were echoed on the palate, with excellent richness and a slightly off-dry finish. It showed well, and showed a little restraint compared to many other Gewurztraminers I have sampled. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 6 votes)

9. Pinot Gris 2001 “Tradition” Hugel (£8.00)

A disappointing wine, from a highly-reputable negociant. The fruit was masked by the heavy use of sulphur. Perhaps there was some peach and pear with a little spice. It had a medium-bodied structure and a good length of finish, but certainly is not worth the price, even at £8.00. (Connolly’s price £12.59!!). (CHP 15, Bin Ends 2 votes)

10. Riesling Grand Cru “Sommerberg” 2001 Kuehn (£8.50).

Fully-developed kerosene and plasticine aromas. Much richer and fatter then the Turckheim example, with more generous minerally, spicy, lime fruit. Quite long and flavoursome on the finish, but lacks the rapier-like quality of fine Alsace Riesling (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 5 votes).

11. Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Sonnenglanz” 2001 Jean Becker (£8.50).

Minerally, lighter in style, and more complex than the Koehly, but, again, the fruit was masked by sulphur. An off-dry medium to full-bodied style, there was honey and spice, with the lychee fruit. I preferred the Koehly. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 3)

The wines gave a comprehensive coverage of the styles available, but for CHP, the evening was a disappointment. A number were marred by the heavy use of sulphur and under-ripe fruit. In spite of the clear varietal labelling, there is no indication of how sweet the wines will turn out to be, making selection a lottery. Furthermore, paying more for a wine did not necessarily guarantee an improvement in quality.

The most popular wine was a Cremant, and - yes – it was clean and fresh, but ultimately, it was a bit one-dimensional. It was a pity, too, that potentially the best wine of the night, the Koehly Pinot Gris was spoiled by cork taint. C’est la vie!

Next Tasting:

Sauvignon Blanc from around the world
Tuesday, 28th June 2005 - 7.30pm, at
St. Augustine’s Church Hall, 9 Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston
To avoid disappointment, book early with Tim White
Tickets: £10 per head