Featuring Chateau de Putille, Anjou
A Mercian/Bin Ends co-production

In a first joint venture between the two wine clubs, Thierry Caumel from Chateau de Putille, was invited to present a portfolio of his wines. The property is located in Anjou, an often over-looked, but remarkable region, because I can think of no other winemaking area in France that can produce such a great diversity of wine styles.

Probably best-known for mass-produced semi-sweet pink wine, masquerading under the label’s Cabernet d’Anjou and Rose d’Anjou, the region incorporates world-class dry Chenin Blanc from Savennieres, and luscious dessert styles from Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. For good measure, the AOC, as well as neighbouring Saumur, is also well known for its sparkling Cremant, usually based on Chenin Blanc, too.

In recent years, red wine production has increased. The staple grape is Cabernet Franc, sold under the Anjou and Anjou-Villages AOC. It is often supplemented with Cabernet Sauvignon. Gamay, too, is a popular quaffing style.

Pascal Delaunay, owner of Chateau Putille, is regarded by his peers as one of the most talented winemakers in the region. The scope of his operation typifies the diversity of the region, boasting an incredible 14 different wine styles within his current portfolio.

If there is a trademark to his winemaking, it’s that the fruit is always of primary importance, and allowed to shine through. At harvest, the grapes are picked only when fully mature, and ripe fruit flavours are evident throughout the entire range. The winery is spotless, fermentation is carried out in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and Pascal, in general, eschews the use of oak. The result is a very “New World” style from within the context of a traditional backwater.

Introductory Wine
Muscadet Sur Lie “Le Fief Cognard” 2003 (£4.40)
Produced by Dominic Salmon (a close friend of Thierry), this wine comes from the heart of the region, and is made from “old vines”. It spends the winter months in tank on its lees, and is then blended from separate parcels to create a more balanced and complex wine, incorporating fruit, acidity and richness.

2003 was an unnaturally hot vintage, and this is reflected by a rich, full-blown style. There was still a crisp flintiness, but balanced with some pleasing lemon and custard fruit. Superb with grilled flat fish or, of course, a plate of steaming mussels.

We then proceeded to taste the Chateau de Putille portfolio in the following order:

1. Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (£4.40)
Vegetally, herbaceous, slightly off-dry style.

2. Chardonnay 2004 (£4.40)
Citrus with cream and nuts, but the finish was too sweet.

3. Anjou Blanc 2004 (£4.40) (100% Chenin Blanc)
Full-blown, easy-drinking, slightly off-dry style, tasting of ripe pear and white peach, with a lovely soft textured mouthfeel. My pick of the dry whites.

4. Anjou Blanc 2003 (oaked) £6.40) (100% Chenin Blanc)
Clumsy attempt at oaking, a wine with too much residual sugar.

5. Rose de la Loire 2004 (£4.40 (Gamay/Cabernet Sauvignon)
Elegant and stylish, there was crisp minerally strawberry fruit, with a pleasing just off-dry bitter finish. A perfect summer tipple.

6. Anjou Rouge 2004 (£4.50) (100% Cabernet Franc)
Full-bodied with ripe, earthy raspberry fruit and meaty tannins. Rich, full and satisfying.

7. Anjou-Villages 2004 (£5.10) (50-50 Cabernets Franc & Sauvignon)
The rich cassis fruit dominates this full-bodied wine. It has weight, spice and tannins, yet good backbone. With more structure, it will improve over the next 18 months, attaining better definition.

8. Anjou-Villages Cuvee Prestige 2004 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) (£5.90)
Full-bodied and rich, with black cassis fruit, it had a soft and smooth texture, with ripe, round tannins. Again, would benefit from keeping.

9. Les Schistes de Loire NV (£5.90)
A Cremant that has white pear and citrus fruit, sprinkled wit h breadcrumbs. Very soft, mouthfilling and rich, the finish lingers on the palate.

10. Clos du Salvert Coteaux de la Loire 2004 (£6.60)
Residual sugar 120 gm/l. Late-picked Chenin grown in a walled, quarrystone vineyard. It had sweet, ripe pear and quince fruit, balanced by crisp acidity. Very stylish, it has the potential for long ageing.

11. Clos du Pirouet Coteaux de la Loire 2004 (£6.40)
Residual sugar 90 gm/l. Late-picked Chenin from a walled, schistous vineyard. In spite of less residual sugar, there is more honey and sweetness, but less definition and structure, lacking the balancing acidity of the Clos du Salvert.

12. Cuvee Pierre Carree 2003 (£8.50 per 50 cl bottle)
Residual sugar 200 g/l.

Honeyed and rich, more concentrated with notes of botrytis. It has sweet pear fruit seasoned with spice, and sufficient acidity to provide balance.

Due to the additional space of the room and the numbers attending (about 25) it was decided to present the wines in an informal walk-round, help-yourself basis. Members were also treated to a fine selection of cheeses, rillettes and pate, which went down well. The result was a more social and relaxed evening, yet still informative.

For those who wish to place orders, Thierry will be attending the Bin Ends Alsace tasting on 31st May 2005, and can deliver the wines either at that event, or leave them with me. Please let me know if you are interested in ordering, and contact me on either platpeeps@yahoo.co.uk, or via my website, www.clives-wines.com

Next Tasting:

The Wines of Alsace
Tuesday, 31st May 2005 - 7.30pm, at
St. Augustine’s Church Hall, 9 Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston
To avoid disappointment, book early with Tim White
Tickets: £10 per head