Tonight, we focussed on 9 wines from Chile and Argentina, looking at both popular and offbeat varietals. Prices and stockists are indicated.

1. Las Moras Viognier 2004 San Juan Argentina (£4.79 Co-op)

Many authorities think that Viognier is the ideal “hot” country grape suited to Argentina. This did not disappoint, with some positive apricot fruit infused with spice. Clean and upfront, but a bit abrupt on the finish. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 8 votes)

2. Gewurztraminer 2004 Central Valley Chile (£4.79 Co-op)

Not a grape variety I usually enjoy, this was surprisingly green and tart. To retain crispness, I think it was picked too early with the loss of those typical lychee and ginger spice flavours. (CHP 13, Bin Ends No votes)

3. Anakena Chardonnay 2004 Casablanca Valley (Asda £4.96)

A cool-climate location, fast attaining a reputation for quality Chilean whites. An unoaked style, with some clean melon and pineapple fruit, but by the mid-palate, had become rather hot and spicy, leading to a rather short, sharp finish. Too alcoholic and unbalanced.
(CHP 13, Bin Ends no votes)

4. Tabali Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2003 Limari Valley Chile (Asda £7.94)

A boutique winery concept, at Chile’s northernmost limits, this is a typical “overoaked” hot country style, that amazingly collects awards and leaves me scratching my head. Lots of toast, vanilla and spice, ladled with butter and some butterscotch. Completely over the top, where was the fruit, structure of balance? Ugh! (CHP 13, Bin Ends 4 votes)

5. Las Moras Bonarda 2004 San Juan Argentina (Co-op £4.79)

The Bonarda grape is originally from Piedmont in Northern Italy, and came across to Argentina via Italian migrants. Surprisingly it is Argentina’s most widely planted quality red grape. This delivered juicy, bramble fruit, but with a burnt raisiny character, enlivened with spice and tannin. A curiosity, it was drinkable and I’m sure it would improve with food (CHP 14, Bin Ends 2 votes).

6. Finca Flichman Reserve Shiraz 2003 Mendoza Argentina (Waitrose £5.99)

Part of the Sogrape group, of Mateus Rosé fame, this winery has undergone heavy investment and should be turning out quality wines, particularly with the Shiraz grape, another Rhone immigrant with a lot of potential. Yes, there was some sweet blackberry fruit and spice, but it was never more than OK. Could do better, and not worth the money. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 2 votes)

7. Tabali Reserva Shiraz 2002 (£6.95 Sainsbury)

A second wine from this so-called prize-winning winery that was equally awful. The bouquet was a mixture of leather and wood-polish, infused with sulphur. It was hot and spicy, with not much fruit, personality or anything else for that matter. Ghastly! (CHP 13, Bin Ends no votes)

8. Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot 2001 Colchagua Valley Chile (c£9 not currently listed)

A monster Pinot Noir, tasting of stewed black cherries, with earthy vegetally and menthol notes. Over-extracted and unbalanced, it’s a crude attempt to emulate the classical lines of Red Burgundy. Yes, it’s Pinot, Jim, but not as we know it! Horrendous! (CHP 13, Bin Ends no votes).

9. Las Moras Tannat Reserva 2002 San Juan Argentina (Co-op £5.99)

The Tannat grape is reputedly tough, dark and tannic, and originates from South-West France, where it is used for the legendary “black” wines of Madiran. In South America, it is being marketed in neighbouring Uruguay as a flagship varietal, but this is the first time I’ve encountered an example from Argentina. And what a surprise it turned out to be. Superb black plum and damson fruit, firm tannins, spice, structure and length, it had everything you could ask for. At the tasting, I suggested between £8 and £9. It’s only £5.99, and at this price, over-performs. Easily the pick of the night. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 16 votes.

Next Tasting:

Wines from Anjou”, presented by the winemaker, Thierry Caumel
Tuesday, 12th April 2005, at
St. Augustine’s Church Hall, 9 Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston
To avoid disappointment, book early with Tim White
Tickets: £10 per head