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The key to success for Australian wines is the art or science of blending.
Last month, we looked at the blending of a single varietal, Shiraz, this time
around, we wanted to see what two or more varieties would add to the mix.
The advantage is that more than one variety can introduce complexity
and dimension. It also enables the producer to introduce a less
valued variety into the blend, and help reduce costs, but still
maintain quality.
Australian wine laws stipulate that, if the mix contains less
than 85% of a single variety, the other grapes used must be declared.
The predominant variety is listed first, with the other grape(s)
mentioned in descending order of volume.
1. Ironstone Shiraz-Grenache 2002 Western Australia (£6.99
Connollys/Majestic)
A full-blown, full-bodied blockbuster with raspberry and some blackberry
fruit, seasoned with pepper and soft earth. The finish was rich
and sweet. CHP detected a slight cardboard taint and felt the wine
was overblown and lacked balance. (CHP 14, Bin Ends 3 votes)
2. Peter Lehmann “Clancy’s” 2003 Barossa South
Australia (Co-op, Oddbins, Waitrose, Sainsbury £6.99-£7.99)
A melange of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc,
with flavours of juicy berries and plums, with some soft ruffled
tannins. Honest and pleasurable, the finish was rather abrupt.
(CHP 16, no Bin Ends votes)
3. Mountadam Cabernet-Merlot 2001 Barossa South Australia (£7.49
House of Fraser)
The bouquet had intense blackcurrant and menthol, echoed on the
palate, with juicy plums, leathery tannins and rich, dark chocolate
finish. Fruit-driven and assertive, this had some complexity and
dimension representing great value drinking. (CHP 17, Bin Ends
6 votes)
4. Peter Lehmann G-S-M 2002 Barossa South Australia (£8.50
Laytons/Jereboams)
Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre blend. Juicy vibrant and spicy, jammy
fruit. This was reminiscent of a Beaujolais Cru, such as Morgon
or Moulin a Vent. Whilst soft, fruity and easy-drinking, it lacked
any depth or dimension and fell rather flat (CHP 15, 1 Bin Ends
vote)
5. Ironstone Zinfandel 2001 Western Australia (£8.99 Majestic)
A late substitute, and atypically a single varietal, this super-heavyweight
came in at an incredible 16o abv. There was sweet, ripe bramble
fruit, spice, pepper and a hot sweet chocolate finish. CHP put
off by slightly fish cardboardy notes, but CHP’s verdict
was that it was flabby and unbalanced.
(CHP 14, no Bin Ends votes).
6. Penfolds Old Vine Barossa 1996 South Australia (c£12
CHP stock)
(Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre). The initial flavours of menthol and
leather, gave way to spice and mature bramble fruit, with a terrific
length of finish. A rare example of a fully mature wine, rounded
and well integrated. Superb. (CHP 18, 3 Bin Ends votes).
7. Rosemount “Traditional 1996 McLaren Vale South Australia
(c£14 CHP stock)
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot)
A wine that presses all the right buttons – smoky cassis,
eucalyptus, cedar and spice, opening out to a rich, stylish off
dry finish, but the fruit level was a touch overblown and blousy.
Winemaking by numbers – this lacked the “soul” to
make it great. (CHP 17, 2 Bin Ends votes)
8. Chapel Hill “The Vicar” 1996 Cabernet Shiraz McLaren
Vale (c£17 CHP stock)
Smooth and polished, with smoky eucalyptus and subtly integrated
fruit, cedar, pencils and spice. Smooth and complex, this has it
all. A truly great wine ,and one of the best tasted at a Bin Ends
tasting. (CHP 19, 8 Bin Ends votes)
9. Stanton and Killeen Rutherglen Muscat Victoria (£11.39
Tanners/Connollys)
A classic fortified Muscat from Rutherglen. Very toothsome, with
flavours of mandarin, grenadine, hint of linctus, rhubarb and toffee.
Intensely sweet, but cloys as it lacks balance and acidity. (CHP
16)
Many thanks to those who brought food offerings, including Dave,
Margaret and Tim, and special thanks to Michele for the scrumptious
Christmas Mincemeat Tart.
Wishing all Bin Ends Members a very Merry Christmas and a Prosperous
New Year – see some of us at the 14th January dinner and
hopefully everyone at the 22nd February tasting (Tuesday) at our
new venue.
Next Tasting:
“Classic Varietals”
Tuesday, 22nd February 2004, 7.30 pm prompt
St. Augustine’s Church Hall, Lyttleton Road, Edgbaston
To avoid disappointment, book early with Tim White
Cost: £10 per person
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