Big and brash, “brand” Australia has taken the wine world by storm. From a blip on the sales chart 25 years ago, it now outranks France as the UK’s No. 1 best seller.

The most dynamic wine-producing nation on the planet, Australia is at the cutting edge. Unquestionably, the most high-tech, with state-of-the-art wineries and highly-trained winemakers. The problems of drought are overcome by irrigation and wine flaws remedied by acidification, added tannins or even sugar.

In general, the wines are outgoing and unpretentious – what you see is what you get! The recipe for success has been consistency, simple labelling and building brand names. Though marketing is slick, Australian winemakers actually listen to their customers and deliver what is needed.

The key to building a brand is selection and blending. The grapes need not come from a single location, but can be sourced over vast regions to produce the right characteristic for a particular blend.

As the industry matures, there is a creeping sense of geography and terroir. Regionality or “geographic indicators” are the new “buzzwords”. The purpose of the evening was therefore to look at regional differences, focussing on the flagship varietal Shiraz.

Originally from the Northern Rhone, where it is known as Syrah, it was first introduced as long ago was the 1830s. It’s Australia’s great red grape made in a variety of styles, from soft, jammy reds and roses, to big spicy blockbusters. It even has a tradition of sparkling and fortified wines.

The wines were sourced from the following regions:

1. New South Wales
The Hunter Valley is the “cradle” of the Australian wine industry, with vines planted as far back as 1828. As a region, it’s not entirely suitable, as the climate is subtropical, with hot summers and wet autumns, so vintage quality can vary.
Once known as Hermitage, Shiraz is the classic red. It’s soft, earthy, long and spicy, becoming complex and leathery.

2. Victoria
Once the leading wine region, but devastated by phylloxera in the late 19th century. In terms of climate, it’s an extremely varied region, but we sourced reds from Rutherglen (famous for fortified Muscats) and Pyrenees, both warm climate, ideally suited to big-scale reds.

3. South Australia
Australia’s largest “California” state, responsible for 46% of output: can be divided into the three main regions for Shiraz:

i. The Barossa Valley, Australia’s biggest quality wine district. A hot dry climate, with unirrigated bush vines, famous for rich, chocolatey, spicy reds. Shiraz.
ii. McLaren Vale – a sunny coastal zone with ideal growing conditions for red varietals.
iii. Padthaway – to the north of Coonawarra (famous for Cabernet Sauvignon), with similar soils, but warmer climate, establishing a growing reputation.

4. Western Australia
A cooler climate now famous for classic varietal styles with superb purity of fruit and lightness of touch. An area providing only 3-4 per cent of total volume, but outpunches its weight.

THE WINES

1. Omrah Shiraz 2001 Plantagenet Western Australia (£7.99 Somerfields)
Juicy, smoky and spicy, with blackberry and liquorice fruit, carrying through to a soft rich finish with plums and chocolate. (6 votes, CP 16+)

2. Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2002 South Australia (£7.89 Connollys)
Blackberry and liquorice, infused with menthol and spice, accompanied by soft tannins. Easy drinking (6 votes, CP 16+)

3. Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2002 South Australia (£7.99/£8.49, Morrisons.Oddbins)
Blackberry and spice, well supported by toasty oak. It showed pleasing concentration, balance, structure and above all, carried through to a lingering finish
(4 votes, CP 17+)

4. Tyrells Brokenback Shiraz 1999 Hunter Valley NSW (£9.99 House of Fraser)
A juicy, lighter style, with pepper and leather (no votes, CHP 16)

5. Campbells “Bobbie Burns” Shiraz 2002 Rutherglen, Victoria (£9.99 Oddbins)
Leather, spicy, juicy blackberry fruit, with a sweet earthy, liquorice finish.
(3 votes, CP 15+)

6. Mitolo “Jester” Shiraz 2002 McLaren Vale, S. Australia (£9.95 Connollys)
Smoky blackberry and spice, smooth, rich, concentrated and toasty, but a touch too oaky.
(6 votes, CP 16)

7. Alkoomi Frankland River Shiraz 2000 Western Australia (£9.95, Jereboams/Laytons 0208.985.1650)
An offputting bouquet of babies’ nappies and poo indicated a “reduction” problem, caused by an excess of hydrogen sulphide/mercaptans. The pervasive odour spoiled the fruit, structure and style
(no votes, CP 15)

8. Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz 2000 Barossa Valley (£9.98 Asda)
Our sample was corked. In texture, a step up from the entry level wine.

9. Brokenwood Shiraz 2001 McLaren Vale/Padthaway NSW (£10.99 Connollys, £12.49 Oddbins)
Juicy jammy fruit, with damson flavours, supported by menthol and earthy ripe tannins carrying through to a sweet toasty, lingering finish. (1 vote, CP 17)

10. Taltarni Shiraz 2000 Pyrenees Victoria (£11.60 Jereboams)
Classic flavours of spice, liquorice and plums, with pronounced leather on the mid-palate and menthol in the finish. The end result, though, was muddy and clumsy, lacking structure. (No votes, CP 15)

11. Grant Burge Filsell Barossa Old Vine Shiraz South Australia (£13.49 Connollys)
A complex bouquet of sweet toasty oak, vanilla and blackberry was echoed on the palate, with added linctus and spice, supported by soft velvety tannins. Very smooth, round and palatable, pressing all the right buttons. (7 votes, CP 17+)

CONCLUSIONS

The regional differences were not wholly apparent, although perhaps the wines from Victoria and New South Wales were more leathery, and the first example from Western Australia showed a little more structure and purity of fruit. In general, the wines were made to a consistent standard and price, but in the main, failed to really excite and many were far too alcoholic, averaging at about 14.5o abv.

Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 15th December 2004
Australian Blockbusters Part 2 (a look at blends)
To be accompanied by festive nibbles.
CHP will provide mince pies and a fortified Muscat.
Please contact CHP (info@clives-wines.com) if you are able to contribute
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person