Rioja is, without doubt, Spain’s most famous table wine, and as a region, located in north-east Spain. It can be made red or white, and the grapes are grown in one of three sub-regions, Rioja Alavesa, Alta and Baja. The first two have a more temperate climate and are regarded as superior, the latter is semi-arid.

Classic red Rioja is usually based on Tempranillo, with other varieties such as Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha also permitted. White Rioja is primarily Viura, sometimes with a splash of Malvasia.

The tradition of the bodegas was to buy in the grapes from small growers, make and blend the wines and sell them under a house label. The fruit can be sourced from anywhere within the region.

The trademark of Rioja is oak, and traditionally coarser-grained American has been used in preference to French. This has a greater impact on the wine and is responsible for the classic strawberry cream and vanilla flavours associated with the reds.

The length of time the wine spends in bottle is labelled by Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Generally allow 12 months for a Crianza, 2 years for a Reserva and 3 or more years for Gran Reservas.

The practice of long barrel ageing is controversial as some wines spend so long in cask that the fruit disappears, becoming astringent. But times are changing. The more progressive winemakers are sourcing grapes from their own vineyards, with lower yields and better quality fruit. French oak is now being used instead of American, and the amount of ageing is being reduced.

The purpose of tonight’s tasting was to give a spectrum of wineries based in the different sub-regions and a range of wines both traditional and modern.

Conde de Valdemar 2001 Barrel-fermented white £7.99 Berkmanns Wine Cellars
One of the most dynamic brands from the Rioja Alavesa, their leading brand Conde de Valdemar has a fruit-driven focus. White Rioja accounts for around 10% of total production and this example was 100% Viura. It was a cross between old and new. Whilst there was lots of toast and vanilla, there was still some zingy white grapefruit. Spicy, rich and creamy, it left a smooth, rich finish.
It was generally popular and collected 6 votes (CHP 16.5)

Campo Viejo Crianza 2001 £5.99 widely available
Founded in 1963 and the largest Rioja producer owned by Allied Domecq, it has a brand new winery and a reputation for good to very good wines. Based in the Rioja Alta
The Crianza is 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo. I found this harsh and astringent, acidic, thin and light, albeit leaving a classic strawberry and cream finish. A traditional style and not to my liking, it collected 2 plaudits from within the group and 1 vote. (CHP 14).

Cosme Palacio 2001 £6.99 Oddbins
Very modern and forward-looking, based in Rioja Alavesa. The pack leaders in new fruit-driven styles, their 100% fruity Tempranillo is both award winning and ground-breaking. It receives about 10 months oak treatment. Unfortunately, our sample was cork-tainted and was “cardboardy”, with a harsh, bitter edge. The texture and mouthfeel indicated that the wine was quite rich and fruit-focussed. No marks.

Glorioso Crianza 2000 £7.49 Oddbins
Glorioso is also by Bodegas Palacio, but made as a leading traditional brand. It’s 100% Tempranillo, with at least 1 year in barrel.
There was soft, spicy, strawberry fruit, with some lemon acidity and astringency, evolving to strawberries and cream. A traditional example that was better than the Campo Viejo, but still fell short. Nevertheless, it did make at least one friend, because it collected a vote (CHP 14+).

Vina Herminia Excelsus 2001 £8.99 Oddbins
One of the best producers of the Raja Baja, where in the semi-arid conditions, Grenache is more prevalent. The Excelsus is a 60/40 Tempranillo/Garnacha mix. It had some juicy, soft raspberry fruit, followed by a touch of astringency on the mid-palate, but then softening out to a spicy earthy finish. Quite concentrated and characterful, and generally well liked, but only collected one vote (CHP 15).

Glorioso Reserva 1999 £10 Oddbins
100% Tempranillo, but the fruit was sweet and ripe, producing juicy, raspberry fruit, softening out and developing into a strawberry and vanilla cream finish, that stayed in the mouth for some time.
This has better fruit definition, but also nice structure and balance. Quite svelte, this picked up 6 votes and was awarded a 17 by CHP.

Marques de Cáceres Reserva 1995 (£13.49 Oddbins)
Based in the Rioja Alta, this winery changed the face of modern Rioja, by employing Bordeaux methods. The grapes are supplied by local producers and the wines are generally more fruity, well balanced and less oaky than traditional reds.
The Reserva is an 85 Tempranillo/15 Garnacha-Graciano mix, with sweet fruit and oak. Frustratingly, our sample was cork-tainted. (No marks)

Vina Ardanza Reserva 1998 £16.49 (Laymont & Shaw/Sainsbury)
La Rioja Alta are a leading traditional family firm, maintaining tradition, but keeping abreast of modern advances. The Vina Ardanza is an 80-20 Tempranillo/Garnacha that spends 3 years in American oak.
With strong vanilla overtones and light garnet colour, this was surprisingly smooth and rich. There was underlying lemon acidity followed by subtle strawberries and vanilla cream, that was long and soft on the finish. It’s a classic, traditionally mature Rioja style, that in spite of myself, I liked. 3 votes (CHP 17).

Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995 (£14.99 Oddbins)
Hugely popular brand from the leading family owned company based in the Rioja Alavesa. The wine is a mix of the following: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5%Mazuelo, which must be aged in barrel and bottle for a maximum of 5 years before release.
With a classic bouquet of vanilla and strawberries, this was initially fairly juicy and high acid, with lemon fruit and spice, developing into astringency on the mid-palate. Like a butterfly emerging from its cocoon, this transformed in to an impressive silky smooth finish.
A traditional style and well received by the group with 7 votes (top mark). It didn’t do the business for CHP who marked it at 16.

Bodegas Palacio Especial Reserva 2000 £20.99 Oddbins
A premium-cuvée wine in the modern style. There was vibrant black cherry fruit, spice, soft tannins, toast and tar, transforming to a rich, smooth finish. The epitome of a modern Rioja where the fruit is allowed to shine through, and much enjoyed by CHP. It collected 6 votes and a CHP rating of 17.

Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 24th November 2004
Australian Blockbusters
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person