Located on the 45th Parallel in south-west France, exactly between the equator and the North Pole, Bordeaux is regarded as the world’s finest wine region. Its prestige is no coincidence and has come about as a result of the situation, climate, soils and grape varieties.

Bordeaux lies on the confluence of the Rivers Garonne and Dordogne, which merge with the Gironde estuary. These divide the region into three distinct areas; the Left Bank, to the west of the Garonne, a low-lying gravel plateau extending from the Graves in the south, to the Medoc in the north; the Right Bank to the east of the Dordogne, with gently rolling countryside, and the Entre-Deux-Mers, a hilly area wedged inbetween the two. Both latter regions have argilo-calcaire (limestone-clay) soils.

The nature of the soils is of paramount importance to the dominant variety of the grapes grown. The Left Bank soils are dominated by gravels, whereby the pebbles and stones provide excellent drainage and heat storage. The limestone-clay soils of the Right Bank and Entre-Deux-Mers, by contrast, have an ability to retain moisture.

The major grape varieties of Bordeaux are generally planted in the regions where their properties are best suited. The most common variety, Merlot, favours the damper clay soils found on the Right Bank and Entre-Deux Mers. By contrast, the second red variety, Cabernet Sauvignon, does best in the gravels of the Left Bank.

Other red varieties, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, are generally regarded as minor constituents of the red Bordeaux mix, and are used as “seasoning” in the final blend. The region is also famous for dry and sweet whites, based on Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

The Bordelais craft their wines from the varieties at their disposal. The classic reds from the Left Bank (Medoc and Graves) are centred on Cabernet Sauvignon, providing blackcurrant fruit, structure and longevity. These wines can be hard, austere and tannic.

The Right Bank and Entre-Deux-Mers are focussed on the more rounded and plumy Merlot. These wines tend to be more supple and quickly maturing, lacking the structure of their Left Bank counterparts.

The complexity of the region has led to the creation of 57 different AOCs, which are assembled on a pyramidal system, with the best and most exclusive at the apex and the more generic and affordable at the base. However, the subject can be simplified enormously by realising that nearly 90% of all wine is red and that there are four main families: Bordeaux; The Cotes; Libournais and the Left Bank.

The AOCs Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur embody the style of the region, accounting for around 50% of production and can be red or white. The term “Superieur” means a wine with more concentration. These wines can come from anywhere in the Bordeaux AOC, but more often than not are produced in the Entre-Deux-Mers.

The “Cotes” family are all located on the Right Bank and represent a collection of junior AOCs: Blaye, Bourg, Francs and Castillon, all located on the fringes of the classic St. Emilion and Pomerol areas. Again, these are Merlot-based and offer the bargain-hunter great value, affordable claret.

The Merlot-based Libournais lies in the heart of the Right Bank and incorporates the star attractions, St. Emilion and its “Cru”, Pomerol. As an AOC, St. Emilion has an “A” and “B” list of Premier Grand Cru Classé’s, with Grand Cru Classés and Grand Cru in descending order. There is no classification for Pomerol.

Within the Libournais, there are the satellite AOCs, Lalande de Pomerol, Montagne, Lussac, Puisseguin and St. Georges, St. Emilion. Look out, in particular, for the superior Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac.

The Left Bank is Cabernet-dominated, and split between the Medoc to the north of Bordeaux and Graves to the south. The classic heartland of red Graves, is Pessac-Leognan. The whites, labelled Graves, are dry, but further south are the sensational dessert styles from Barsac and Sauternes.

The Medoc is subdivided into the superior Haut-Medoc, to the south of the AOC. This, in turn, includes six superior communes known as Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac and St. Estephe. The greatest wines of the Left Bank are included in a classification devised in 1855 for the Great Paris Exhibition.

The reds are graded into five “Cru Classés, and the sweet whites into two classes, with the exception of d’Yquem, which has its own Premier Grand Cru Classé. The lesser red wines have a separate Cru Bourgeois classification, which can be a sign of great value and quality.

This background is essential to understand the construction of this tasting. The wines were sourced as representative of the main AOCs, but also to demonstrate that the wines offer excellent value for money.

1. Chateau Thieuley 2002 Bordeaux Blanc Sec (Wine Society £7.25. Waitrose)
Located in the Entre-Deux-Mers, Francis Courselle, the winemaker is a supplier of consistent and quality red and white AOC Bordeaux. It had crisp lemon and citrus fruit, with spice and richness, staying long in the mouth. Lovely style and balance, receiving a CHP 18 rating. Universally liked.

2. Dourthe No. 1 1999 (Oddbins £7.39)
An example of “brand” Bordeaux and a last-minute substitution for the cork-tainted Premius “Collection” 2000 (£7.00).
There was some juicy plumy fruit, but the overall impression was of a thin and sour wines, past its best (CHP 14 rating)

3. Chateau Tour de Mirambeau Rouge 2001 Bordeaux Superieur (£7 Oddbins)
From the Despagne family, top producers in the Entre-Deux-Mers, this Merlot-based red had a delightful structure, with juicy, smoky, plumy and blackcurrant fruit, backed up with ripe tannins, meat and spice, leaving a ruffled finish on the palate. CHP 17+.

4. Chateau Méaume Bordeaux Superieur 2000 (£6.00 Majestic)
From a domaine north of Pomerol, run by an Englishman who has associations with Majestic, this weighed in at a whopping 14o abv. There were sweet, ripe, juicy, black plums, lots of spice and almost a raisin finish. Personally, the wine was over-extracted and too alcoholic, causing it to lose its structure and balance. Disappointing for what is regarded as a great vintage. (CHP 15).

5. Château de Pitray Cotes de Castillon 1999 (£8.50 Majestic)
Once the best known of the AOC, this was rather light and austere, lacking fruit, depth and weight. Personally, the biggest disappointment in an AOC, which invariably delivers value for money (CHP 13).

6. Château de la Riviere 2000 Fronsac (£11.00 CHP stock)
The largest producer in the AOC, this was a classic wine from a classic vintage. There was soft, juicy plums, leathery tannins and spice, evolving to a fully-dry finish with super length. A CHP favourite with 18 and it collected 4 votes.

7. Chateau La Fleur Plaisance 2001 St. Emilion Grand Cru (£11.99 Majestic)
Merlot-based, this was surprisingly forward, sweet and fleshy, with flavours of cherries and plums, underpinned with leather. The sweetness was a little disarming. (CHP 15+).

8. Clos Floridène 2001 Graves (CHP stock, £10.60)
Classic 85% Cab Sauv 15% Merlot mix from the Graves. There was juicy black cherry and cassis fruit, backed up with firm tannins. Still young, austere and tannic, but with plenty more to go. (CHP 17). 1 vote.

9. Chateau Tour Prignac 2001 Cru Bourgeois Medoc (Oddbins £7.99)
Another last minute substitute for the cork-tainted La Chapelle d’Escurac 1998 Medoc (£8.00 CHP stock).
A 50% Merlot-blend, that was surprisingly forward, rounded and easy-drinking. It was rich, plumy, soft and leathery, with a nice length of finish. Generally well-regarded with 3 votes, and a CHP 17 rating.

10. Chateau Beaumont 1998 Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois (CHP stock £12)
A large, top-class estate renowned for producing reasonably priced quality wines.
On the palate it was initially austere with minty, juicy cherry fruit, cedar, pencils and liquorice. There were firm tannins, spice and wood shavings, that stayed long in the mouth. The fruit was quite restrained, but the wine had a satisfying balance and structure. (CHP 17+).

11. Chateau Paveil de Luze 2001 Margaux
From an old family estate, this was a classic, elegant Margaux style. On the palate there was juicy cassis fruit, spice and firm tannins, with a dry, woody finish, shot through with silk. Generally well-liked, 3 votes (CHP 17 rating).

12. Chateau Latrezotte 1996 Barsac (CHP stock £15)
A fully mature Barsac that was drinking to perfection. On the palate, there were complex flavours of honey, lemon, caramel, spice and a hint of pineapple. Not overly sweet, the unctuous texture was balanced with fine acidity, leaving a long, fine finish.
Easily, the best wine of the night, and enjoyed by even those who don’t like dessert styles. (CHP rating 19).

Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 27th October 2004
Rioja
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person