In the UK, we are obsessed with
brands, and this particularly holds true with Champagne. At present,
around 30 major houses account for around 70% of sales and are responsible
for about 90% of exports.
The big merchant houses can only supply around 15% of their own
needs, and therefore rely on some 15,000 growers spread throughout
the region. A number of these growers and co-operatives, around
4,000, actually make and market their own wines.
Champagne can be made from a blend of 3 grape varieties, two red
and one white, whose characteristics are as follows:
1.Pinot Meunier – adds red fruit and freshness, and makes
a forward, easy-drinking style.
2.Chardonnay – gives weight and finesse, with citrussy fruit,
butter and nuts, and biscuity notes on aged wines.
3.Pinot Noir – gives weight, richness and power, and has
flavours of red fruits, raspberries and chocolate.
The region is relatively small and has four main areas:
1.Marne Valley – a cooler, more frost-prone area, to the
west of Epernay. Here, the late-flowering Pinot Meunier finds favour.
2.Montagne de Reims – a crescent-moon shape from Reims to
Epernay. The vineyards to the north tend to produce more elegant
styles, those to the south, particularly Ay, Bouzy and Ambonnay,
produce the classic, powerful Pinot Noir wines.
3.Cotes des Blancs – a range of hills south of Epernay, dedicated
principally to Chardonnay.
4.The Aube – a remote region, south-east of Troyes, whose
most famous wine is Rosé de Riceys. It’s an area based
on Pinot Noir.
The Wines:
1.Veuve Fourny 1er Cru Rosé NV
From the village of Vertus, on the Cotes des Blancs, this
Rosé is a red/white wine mix, of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot
Noir. Crisp, light and fine. Minerally red fruit, rounded with cream,
raspberry and chocolate. 6 votes
2.J. Lassalle 1er Cru Brut Rosé NV
From Chigny-les-Roses on the northern slopes of the Montagne
de Reims, this is 80% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier.
Fuller and richer, honey, toast, brioche and red fruit, cut through
with a streak of acidity to a full rich finish.
4 votes
3.Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée
Gastronome” NV
100% Chardonnay wines from the Cote des Blancs. Crisp and
full, with flavours of cream and hazelnuts, and notes of tangerine.
1 vote
4.A. R. Lenoble Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV
100% Chardonnay Grand Cru, from the Cotes des Blancs. Unpleasant,
marred by excess sulphur, masking citrus, lemon butter and nuts.
Very disappointing.
5.H. Blin NV
Co-operative producers from the heart of the Marne Valley.
Blend is 80% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay. Reeked of sulphur –
undrinkable.
6.J. Charpentier Brut Millesime 1997
Top Marne Valley producer specialising in Pinot Meunier.
40% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Bready, yeasty,
red fruit and breadcrumbs. Full and rich, spicy with crisp acidity
with a chocolate finish.
11 votes
7. Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve NV
An exclusive Grand Cru co-operative on the northern side
of the Montagne de Reims. 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Weighty
and full, yet retaining crispness. Yeast, raspberry fruit, with
spice and butter.
3 votes
8. André Clouet Brut Grande Reserve Grand Cru NV
From the warmest south-eastern facing slopes on the Montagne
de Reims, this is a 100% Pinot Noir from Bouzy. Full, fat, rich
and powerful, with flavours of breadcrumbs, spice and chocolate.
The most popular wine of the evening
13 votes
9.J. Lassalle “Angeline” 1er Cru 1993
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. 9 years on lees. Minerally
and complex, with flavours of yeast, lemon and minerals. The finish
is smooth and soft.
5 votes
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BARBECUE: 30th July (friday) Check email for booking details
NEXT TASTING:
English Wines from the Heart of England:
Wednesday, 25th August, 7.30 pm
Oddbins,Hagley Road, Birmingham
Cost £10 per person
Don’t forget to book your place with Tim
White
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