Although Greece has been producing wine for the last 4000 years, up to the recent past, the story has been pretty depressing. Until Greece joined the EU in 1981, her wine industry was still in a rudimentary state, with most of the best wines dominated by a few large-scale producers and co-operatives.

EU membership, though, has encouraged investment and, from the early 1980s, this modernisation has begun to kick in with a new generation of Greek winemakers, now making a range of wine for international tastes and able to exploit their unique indigenous grape varieties. The best wines now tend to be made by specialist boutique wineries.

Greece is never going to be a major player, as the volumes are not large enough. Nevertheless, one major obstacle is the language barrier. The labels are generally difficult for the consumer to understand, and so specialist knowledge is required to push them.

For the basis of the evening, Clive approached a leading Greek wine specialist, Mary Pateras of Eclectic wine, and she kindly supplied 7 of the wines we sampled. The main High Street specialist is Oddbins, and 3 samples were sourced from them, including one from Clive’s personal stock.

1. Xerolithia 2002 (Oddbins £4.49)
From the Peza region in Crete, the name means dry stone walls. Made using the Vilano grape, this had citrussy lemon fruit, seasoned with a touch of spice, rounded off with a little cream and honey, ending with a satisfying dry finish.
To be enjoyed alone or with food, this was a wine with real character and dimension. Expectations are generally low at this price point, but this offers incredible value. Terrific stuff, highly recommended and universally well liked.
Favoured by Clive, Dave, Sue, Jane, Lorna, Megan, Nicola, Chris, Keith and Margaret.

2. Palivou White Fox 2003 (Eclectic Wines, £5.99)
From the Pelopennese region near Corinth, White Fox is made from the white grape variety, Roditis.
Quite esthery, with flavours of pear fruit and creamy bananas. Medium-bodied, perhaps overdominated by the banana character.

3. Hatzidakis Santorini 2003 (£8.99 Wine Society and Eclectic Wines)
90% white Assyrtiko, made in the spectacular island of Santorini, a volcanic caldera. Unoaked.
Predominant flavours of lemon citrus, with honey and spice. Full flavoured and golden ripe, a well balanced, full-bodied style.
Preferred by Andy and Ann-Marie.

4. Dme Biblia Chora 2003 White (£9.99 Eclectic Wines)
From a dynamic brand new estate in Drama, north-east Greece, this is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Assyrtiko. Fresh, light and well balanced, this had delicious white grapefruit flavours. Well-structured, with added elegance and finesse, the finish was exquisite. Pricey, but well liked.
Preferred by Clive, Tim, Tim W, Sue, Jane, Marc, Nicola.

5. Amethystos 2002 Rose (£8.59 Oddbins)
made by Constantin Lazaridis, in Drama, Macedonia, this rose is from Cabernet Sauvignon.
A deep pink hue, with juicy plums, hints of blackcurrant, it’s a minerally, vibrant rose. Opinion split, some found it bitter in style, others thought it sophisticated, although most agreed it was too expensive.

6. Domaine Evharis Ilaros 2003 (Eclectic Wines £5.25)
A light-bodied red from Attica, made from Aghiortiko (St. George) and Grenache. It’s juicy, with bright cherry fruit, with a touch of pepper and spice. A straightforward quaffer, and considered by most to be overpriced. Similar to a Beaujolais.

7. Palivou Vineyards 2003 Aghiorgitiko red (£5.99 Eclectic Wines)
Similar to the Ilaros, but more concentrated, with cherry and damson fruit. A touch of spice and a smooth rich finish. More satisfying.

8. Dme Biblia Chora Red 2002 (£10.99 Eclectic)
A 50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, matured in new French oak. A structured wine, with juicy spicy firm tannins, but lacking in primary fruit. For CHP, this had a rather hot and peppery dry finish, and was rather flat and disappointing.
Nevertheless, several in the group gave this top marks, including Lorna, Andy, Ann-Marie and Marc.

9. Gaia Estate Aghioritiko 1998 (Oddbins £16.29, from CHP stock)
Again from the St. George grape, and made in the Peloponnese, it’s full bodied with juicy mulberry and hedgerow fruit, spice and tannins. The smooth finish didn’t really carry through, and although the wine showed some complexity, it failed to deliver at its current price tag. Preferred by Marc and Keith.

10. Samos Anthemis 1997 (£8.75 Eclectic, The Wine Society)
An unctuous lightly fortified dessert wine from Muscat a Petit Grains, made by an island co-operative. Complex, with flavours of tangerines, marmalade, spice and honey. Although intensely sweet, there was some balancing acidity to provide fresh flavours. A beautiful wine and surprisingly very popular.
Enjoyed by Clive, Tim, Tim W, Chris, Margaret, Dave, Dan and Jane

Conclusions
Expectations beforehand were generally low, but the standard of the wines came as a welcome surprise. The whites, in particular, showed very well, especially the Xerolithia, White Biblia Chora and the sweet Samos, but the reds less so.

For a change, there was a great deal of unanimity within the group as to what was liked and disliked. All agreed that, for the most part, the wines were pricy, but it was appreciated that this was the result of relatively small volume.

One major criticism was that the wines appeared to assume an international identity, and had been made especially for the modern palate, which prefers fresher, more fruit-driven styles. Within the group, some felt that the wines should offer something a little more individual or characterful and that the wines lacked a Greek identity. Perhaps something a bit more rustic would have been preferred, especially with the reds.

For more details: www eclecticwines.com (Mary Pateras)
Or Geoff Adams’ book: “Greek Wines, a Comprehensive Guide”, from:
Wine.master@tesco.net

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NEXT TASTING:
Growers’ Champagne:
Wednesday, 30th June, 7.30 pm
Oddbins,Hagley Road, Birmingham
Cost £20 per person
Don’t forget to book your place with Tim White