Along with Chardonnay, wine connoisseurs regard Riesling as one of the “noble” white grape varieties. It is rarely, if ever, oaked, and when young, has good acidity and flavours of green apple and lemon zest. The grape has the ability to age and can take on classic oily diesel notes. It is made worldwide and can be produced in a number of different styles, from bone dry to lusciously sweet.

THE WINES:

From Germany

1. Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese 2002, R. Weitz (sourced from producer, £5.25)

Minerally, crisp green apples, balanced with pleasant residual sweetness. Lacked steel and backbone. (Binends 3; CHP 6.5)

2. Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese 1990 Laurentiushof (Majestic £6.49)

Rich and steely, with lime fruit flavours, coated with oily diesel. (Binends4, CHP 8)

3. Piesporter Domherr Riesling Auslese 2000 (R. Weitz £6.50 50 cl.)

Minerally and steely, with flavours of lime zest and lime marmalade. Superb concentration and balance (Bin Ends 6, CHP 8.5)

4. Wachenheimer Rechbachel Riesling Spatlese Trocken 1999 Pfalz Dr. Burklin-Wolf (Tanners £12.95)

Fully dry, minerally, powerful, elegant, yet clean with a long, long finish. Superb clarity and purity of fruit. Awesome (Binends 6, CHP 8.5)

5. Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2002 Nahe Donnhoff (Tanners £11.40)

Steely apple fruit, laced with spice. Rich mouthfeel with residual sweetness, providing perfect balance to the acidity. Very impressive with superb edge and fruit definition.
(Binends 7, CHP 9)

From Alsace:

6. Riesling Kaefferkopf 2001 Henri Ehrhart (Tanners £7.30)

Clean, crisp, steely and slatey, enriched with a squirt of oil. Good length of finish and terrific value. (Bin ends 7, CHP 8.5)

7. Cote de Rouffach 2001 Rene Mure (£7 from producer)

More apple fruit, fuller and rich, lacking the backbone and steel. (Bin ends 5, CHP 6)

From the New World

8. Pewsey Vale 2003 Eden Valley South Australia (£8.99 Oddbins)

Fuller and richer in style, with a dry finish. Very hot and spicy, with an abrupt ending.
(Binends 4, CHP 4).

9. Villa Maria Selection 2002 Marlborough New Zealand (£9.19 Oddbins)

Slightly carbonated, oily lime zest, rich and oily, but clumsy in structure.
(Binends 4, CHP 6).

10. Frostline 2003 Western Cape South Africa (£8.99 Oddbins)

Fresh, zingy white grapefruit, almost like Sauvignon Blanc. Spritzy, with a short watery finish, and a slightly bitter end note. (Binends 4, CHP 5)

11. Petaluma 2001 Clare Valley South Australia (£9.99 Tanners)

Lighter and better balanced, with some minerality and complexity. Regrettably, our sample was cork-tainted. (No score)

12. Petaluma 1996 Clare Valley South Australia (£9.99 stock)

Fully mature, with notes of honey, flowers and lime zest. (Binends 5, CHP 7)

Summary

The tasting provided a fascinating overview into the various styles of Riesling currently available, as well as showing how the wines can age. There was considerably diversity of opinion, with some wines either being loved or hated, without a middle ground. CHP thought the classics from Germany and Alsace showed a lot better than the more commercial and alcoholic New World samples, with the exception of the Petaluma by Croser.

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Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 12 May 2004
Greek Wines for the Olympics
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person