The classic French grape varieties have been transplanted worldwide to universal acclaim. Perhaps the most recent success story has been in Latin-America, where Chile now has a thriving and dynamic wine industry.

After languishing in the doldrums for the best part of the 20th century, a massive revival began in the 1980s, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon, later followed by Merlot. Here irrigation from the Andes meltwaters have enabled the grapes to thrive in warm sunshine and an arid climate. The fruit is disease-free and super-ripe, and tends to produce much larger-than-life flavours than their ancestral French counterparts.

The initial focus of the export drive to the UK was primarily based on four staple varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. These entered the market at very competitive price levels to establish a toehold. During the course of the 90s, prices have increased across the spectrum, but not so the quality. The reputation has become predictable, safe, and a little boring, a little like a Volvo.

At present the industry focus on brand names from leading producers, marketing their wine on the grape variety. The big players are currently diversifying by increasing their portfolio of varieties, including Pinot Noir and Syrah, which are internationally recognised.

The focus of the evening was to look at a few of the leading brands and grape varieties at the Reserva level, with prices ranging from £8 to £15.

1. Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Casablanca Concha y Toro
(£7.99 Oddbins)

Terrunyo is a “terroir” concept label, and this S.B. is from the cooler Casablanca Valley, acknowledged as being better suited to whites and cool climate reds (Pinot Noir).

This had classic minerally, herbaceous gooseberry fruit. It was full and rich, with some acidity providing balance. It’s clean, well made and was generally well-liked. Bin Ends 7.5/10, CHP 7/10.

2. Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay 2001
(£9.99 Safeway, Selfridges)

A cult wine from a cult winery. A full-blown, full-bodied Chardonnay, with loads of oak and malo. Lots of toast, vanilla, cream and butterscotch, but lacking fruit. It was suspected that this sample was cork-tainted (TCA). Personally, this was clumsy, flabby and unbalanced.
(Bin Ends 4/10, CHP 4/10)

3. Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2002 Casablanca Valley
(£9.99 Majestic/Safeway)

A second big, rich oak-dominated Chardonnay, dominated by vanilla, cream and toast. The fruit content was better defined, and this found favour with a minority section. (Bin Ends 6/10, CHP 5/10)

4. Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2001 Casablanca Valley
(£9.99 Sainsbury)

A rather gawky and gauche example, with smoky sour cherry fruit, and lemon tea followed by a bitter note on the finish. Lacked character and was rather obvious for a £10 wine. (Bin Ends 5/10, CHP 5/10)

5. Cono Sur “20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2001 Colchagua Valley
(£11.49 Majestic)

“It’s Pinot, Jim, but not as we know it!”. A full-blown blockbuster with concentrated fruit, given heavy handed oak treatment. There were some smoky bacon, cherry and earthy flavours. Full-bodied and powerful, the tannins had yet to soften. Not well liked.
(Bin Ends 4.5/10, CHP 5/10)

6. Terrunyo Carmenere 2001 Rapel/Cachapoal Valley
Concha y Toro (£9.99 Oddbins)

Intense, Inky-black and concentrated, with juicy blackberries, firm tannins, spice and leather, followed by a pleasing lingering finish. Full-bodied, but balanced. Generally well-liked (Bin Ends 8/10, CHP 8/10)

7. Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Merlot 2000
Colchagua Valley (£14.99 Majestic, Safeway, Thresher,
Wine Society)

A trademark wine by the flying wine consultant Michel Rolland, from Bordeaux’s Right Bank. It has beautifully stated plum and blackberry fruit, spice, leather and ripe tannins, evolving to an impressive lingering finish. Perfectly poised, this was a real star performer.
(Bin Ends 8/10, CHP 9/10)

8. Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley
(£9.99 Majestic, Oddbins)

Another heavily-oaked example from this stable, producing smoky, menthol-infused black fruits, firm tannins, sweet oak, vanilla and spice. The oak dominates the fruit, and this was not well received.
(Bin Ends 5/10, CHP 6/10)

9. Caliterra Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Colchagua Valley
(£8.55 approx, www.everywine.co.uk)

A delightful, mature, bewitching bouquet failed to live up to its promise on the palate. The fruit had begun to fade, yet the complexity and secondary flavours of a maturing wine were not present. (Bin Ends 5/10, CHP 5/10)

10. Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvee Alexandre 1998 Colchagua Valley
(£10.97, www.everywine.co.uk)

Another mature wine that failed to last the distance. Little fruit and a rather dry and dusty finish. (Bin Ends 4 /10, CHP 4 /10)

11. Errazuriz Max Reserva Syrah 2000 Aconcagua Valley
(£9.99 Oddbins, Safeway, Tesco)

Savoury, smoky juicy blackberry and liquorice, with grippy tannins, and a hot alcoholic finish. A little clumsy, and lacks the appeal of Ozzie examples at this price. (Bin Ends 7/10, CHP 6/10)

12. Montes Alpha Syrah 2002 Apalta Colchagua Valley
(£11.99 Majestic)

A second musty TCA example, which has ruined a perfectly good wine. This should be a more impressive example than the Errazuriz, but failed to live up to its promise. (Bin Ends 4/10, CHP 5/10)

Conclusions:

These Reserva wines should have delivered a lot more consistent pleasure, but clearly many do not justify the price. Apart from 3 exceptions, the “Volvo” effect holds true. Safe, dull and boring

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Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 28th April 2004
Riesling Varietal
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person