The Languedoc-Roussillon region is the largest vineyard in the whole of France, producing more wine than the whole of Australia, and an average 2.5 times greater than Bordeaux. It represents about one-third of France’s total vineyard area, yet until recently, did not have a single world-class wine.

Until the early 1980s, the story was pretty dismal, with a record of subsidised wine lakes leading to oceans of “vin ordinaire”. Whilst mediocrity is still in evidence, there has been a massive revolution over the past 20-25 years that has made this probably the most exciting and innovative region, not just in France, but possibly worldwide.

The purpose of the tasting was to show how the structure of the wines can vary according to climate (cooler in the west than the east), terroir, Appellation, and grape varieties. Five varieties are permitted - Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre (the best three), Carignan and Cinsault (often poorly regarded).

The wines:

1. Chateau de Pennautier AOC Cabardes 2001 (£5.25 Wine Society)
On the western cusp of the Midi, with Atlantic influences. This blend uniquely permits Cabernet and Merlot to be added to Grenache and Syrah.

The result was a well-structured, juicy cassis and plum mix, with some leather and grip, and a satisfying chocolate powder finish.
(CHP 7/10, general 6/10)

2. Domaine La Cazal AOC Minervois 2000 (£4.99 M&S)
Traditional blend, using the main varieties and unoaked. A juicy, medium-bodied style, with smoky raspberry fruit, black pepper and spice. Unfortunately, our sample was horrendously corked. (no score)

3. Chateau Guiot 2002 AOC Costieres de Nimes (£4.99 Majestic)
Surprisingly good for a harvest wrecked by storms and flooding. Rather light, juicy jammy fruit, with some light white pepper.
(CHP 5/10, general 5/10)

4. L’Opera de Villerambert-Julien 2000 (£6.30 Tanners)
The second wine of this estate, part of the blend is aged in used barrels. The predominant flavours were juicy and jammy blackberry, infused with spice and grippy tannins. This was spoiled by a rather hard bitter finish. I suspect mild cork taint, because usually this wine has a very gentle and soft raisiny finish. (CHP 4/10, general 5/10)

5. Domaine de Rouviere Merlot 2001 vdp Coteaux de Fontcaude
(38.00 stock)
Merlot is not a permitted AOC grape, meaning the wine is declassified to Vin de Pays. This proved very popular, with classic Merlot flavours of juicy plums and leather. It was spicy and rich, with grippy tannins and a lingering chocolate powder finish. (CHP 7/10, general 8/10)

6. Les Cailloutis Corbieres 1999 Gerard Bertrand
(stock £7.00)
A classic medium-bodied oak-aged Corbieres, with a high proportion of Carignan. The predominant flavours were juicy and smoky redcurrants, seasoned with spice, white pepper and vanilla. Generally well liked.
(CHP 7/10, general 7/10)

7. Chateau Cazal-Viel “Cuvée des Fées” 2000 St. Chinian £7.49 Waitrose)
A classic Cote Rotie blend of 90% Syrah with 10% white Viognier. No oak. Our sample was cork-tainted, with a harsh bitter and metallic finish.

Past notes: Juicy hedgerow fruits, with scents of the “garrigue”, rosemary and thyme. Not well received, which is a pity, as it is highly recommended by CHP. (CHP 4/10, general 5/10)

8. Clos Roque d’Aspes 1999 Faugeres (£6.99 Marks & Spencer)
From the schist soils of Faugeres, which is hot enough to grow this unoaked Mourvedre blend. Dense, dark and tarry, this had real backbone and flavours of damsons. Quite tough and tannic at first, this had a strong red/blackcurrant aftertaste (CHP 7/10, general 7/10)

9. Domaine du Poujol “Podio Alto” 2000 Coteaux du Languedoc (£7.50 Tanners)
From the more Mediterranean and hotter “eastern” side of the region, this showed delicious, spicy cherry fruit, with spice and ripe tannins. At first the finish was redcurrants, but later developed to chocolate. Full, rich and satisfying. (CHP 7/10, general 7/10)

10. Chateau St. Eulalie La Cantilene Minervois La Liviniere (£7.95 Wine Society)
This is a “Cru” wine, a superior AOC within an AOC. Quite earthy in style, this had mulberry and blackberry fruit, spice and pepper. It had a rich texture, with a smooth, dark chocolate finish, which was soft and lingering. Perhaps a poor bottle, this wine has been a consistent CHP personal favourite, and has shown better on many previous occasions.
(CHP 7/10, general 6/10)

11. No. 3 CV Castelmaure 1999, AOC Corbieres (£13 Wine Society)
From a top-notch co-operative, under consultation with leading specialists Tardieu and Laurent from the Rhone.
It’s full-bodied, with a stewed melange of summer pudding fruits, but with an earthy texture, laced with vanilla and spice, and backed up with grippy tannins. A complete wine with a soft rich, lingering finish
(CHP 8/10, general 8/10)

12. Domaine Borie de Maurel Minervois 1999 Cuvée Sylla (Oddbins £17.99).
A full-bodied “New World” blockbuster, showing concentrated blackberry fruit and spice, laced with baked caramel. It had a lovely rich texture and length, but for CHP lacked the complexity of “No. 3” above.
(CHP 7/10, general 8/10)

Next Tasting:

Wednesday, 31st March 2004
Wines from Chile
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person