| The Loire Valley is France’s
largest river, stretching across the centre of the country for a
distance of 1000 km. It climatically represents the most northernmost
limit of wine production on any significant scale.
Growing close to the margin, the wines can be variable. In good
years, charming and light, but in bad, harsh and acidic. A lot depends
on the weather, and this may explain why France’s third largest
wine region produces such a diversity of wine styles.
At a simple level, the region can be broken down to four areas,
as follows:
Pays Nantais, famous for Muscadet; the Central Loire regions of
Anjou/Saumur and Touraine, where Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc
triumph; and the Upper Loire where Sauvignon Blanc shows its best
expression.
The region can be incredibly complex, and rather than choose individual
examples of the 63 AOCs and 9 Vin de Pays, Clive selected a range
of wine styles to illustrate the diversity (marks awarded out of
10):
1. Chateau de Putille Rosé de la Loire 2000
(£5). A charming light, dry Rosé, with minerally raspberry
flavours. Perhaps the fruit was fading a little. (CHP 5,
Bin Ends average 7).
2. Chateau de Putille Anjou Rouge 2002 (£5).
This light style red had vibrant raspberry fruit and spice, albeit
with a little tannin. The initial attack was excellent, but some
thought it died a little quickly in the mouth (CHP 6, B/E 5.5)
From Nantais, using the Muscadet or Melon de Bourgogne grape, we
tasted:
3. Ch. Thibaud Réserve de Fief Cognard Muscadet
de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2002 (£6.50). Crisp, steely
and minerally, with gunflint flavours and lemon custard fruit. Although
universally enjoyed, CHP detected a hint of cork taint
(CHP 6, B/E 7).
4. Ch. Thibaud Le Fief Cognard 2002 Muscadet de Sevre et
Maine Sur Lie (£7.50). A very rare oak-fermented
example, that was dominated by vanilla and oaky resin, but was still
quite rich and full. Many found it over-oaked for their palate.
(CHP 5, B/E 4.5).
Sauvignon Blanc is at its best in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé,
but more straightfoward examples can be found under the labels Touraine
AOC and Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France.
5. Ch. De Putille Cépage Sauvignon Blanc 2002
(£5.00). simple, fresh and light Sauvignon Blanc style, let
down by too much residual sugar, producing a sherbety sweet finish
(CHP 5, B/E 4.5)
6. Pouilly- Fumé Serge Dagenau 2001 (£8.50).
This was a classic smoky, gunflint style. Minerally, dry, classy
and stylish (CHP 7, B/E 6).
Chenin Blanc aka Pineau de la Loire and Steen in South Africa,
is the flagship variety of the region, and 6 different examples
from Anjou, were presented next:
7. Ch de Putille Cremant de Loire Brut NV (£7).
This may have won the Hachette Coup de Coeur (Cup of Hearts), for
Best in Appellation, but was not appreciated by the group. It’s
quite full and rich, with lemon and spice on the initial attack,
but soon falls away with a bitter finish. It may improve with age.
(CHP 4, B/E 5)
8. Ch de Putille Anjou Sec 2002 (£5) Simple,
direct, light style, that was generally popular. Flavours of flowers,
honey and quince/pear, with hints of spice. (CHP 6, B/E 6).
9. Ch de Putille Anjou Coteaux de la Loire 2002, Clos du
Salvert (£6.50)
An oak-fermented toasty style, where wood has been used to enrich
the quince-like fruit, to produce a lingering rich finish (CHP 6,
B/E 6)
10. Ch de Varennes Savennières 2000 (£10).
Fuller and richer, with plenty of vanilla and toast, this was spoiled
by sulphur (burnt matchsticks) (CHP 4, B/E 4)
11. Ch de Putille Anjou Coteaux de la Loire 2002 Moelleux
(£6). A medium-sweet style, where the quince/pear fruit is
enhanced with honey and flowers. The sweetness is balanced by acidity.
(CHP 6, B/E 6)
12. Ch de Putille Pierre Carrée Coteaux de la Loire
Vin Liquoreux Anjou 2001 (£10 per 50 cl. Bt). This
had rich unctuous, spicy pear fruit, laced with honey, producing
a rich, lingering finish. (CHP 8, B/E 7.5)
Next Tasting:
Wednesday, 25th February 2004
“Languedoc Reds - a tour of the region’s reds”
Oddbins, 242a Hagley Road,
Edgbaston, Birmingham
Cost: £10 per person
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