10 Champagnes were tasted blind. The wines were chosen to give a selection of different styles, and to show some of the smaller brands can compete with the big names. The tasting notes were as follows:

Introductory Wine:
Canard-Duchene NV (£17.99)

Founded 1868 and named after Victor Canard, a carpenter and cooper, and his wife Leonie Duchene, daughter of a vine grower. Fresh, floral and appley, but quite acidic and green. Needs more time in bottle. CHP 5/10, Consensus 5/10.

The wines were then selected in three flights of three:

Beaumont des Crayeres Grande Reserve £13.25

This well-respected co-operative has produced a Champagne with a high proportion of Pinot Meunier (65%), regarded as the third Champagne grape after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Soft, full and rich, with almost chocolate like fruit. Easy drinking, forward and good value, but marred by a bitter, green note on the finish. CHP 6/10, Consensus 5/10.

Jeanmaire Y2K Blanc de Blancs £17

A 100% Chardonnay wine, producing a lighter and more elegant style. It was crisp, with notes of biscuits, citrus and butter, with a creamy nutty finish. The flavour fell rather flat all too quickly. CHP 4/10, Consensus 4/10.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV £17

A popular big label that says more about lifestyle than the quality of the contents of the bottle.

Strong whiff of sulphur, with a sickly smell masking little green fruit. Rather nasty and horrid.
CHP 1/10, Consensus 2/10.

Charles de Cazenove Tête de Cuvée NV £15

Little known, family-run House founded in 1811, produced the surprise of the evening. Very light, fresh and crisp style, with lemon, yeast, biscuits and butter.
CHP 7/10, Consensus 6/10.

H. Blin et Cie 1996 £20

Well respected co-operative, founded in 1947 and one of two vintage wines. (Other wines are multi-vintage, using cuvees from 2, 3 or more years). 1996 is highly regarded, and this offered crisp, clean lemony citrus, with some butter and a rich creamy ending. Perhaps the finish was too sweet for most palates. CHP 6/10, Consensus 5/10.

Lanson Black Label NV £20

A major house brand often derided as too acidic. This had 3 years cellar age post-disgorgement, and was possibly the most complex wine on show. It gave flavours of lemon and apples, toast, butter, red fruits and nuts with cream. CHP 8/10, Consensus 7/10.

A. R. Lenoble NV £15

The worst wine from a well-regarded house. This reeked of sulphur and was like drinking a box of Swan Vestas.
CHP 0/10, Consensus 1/10.

Pierre Gimonnet 1998 £17.50

A leading and well-respected grower/producer from the Côte de Blancs, producing an all-Chardonnay vintage wine.
Lighter in style, this was citrussy, with notes of mandarin, it was creamy, buttery and nutty, with a light lingering finish. The wine had poise and balance.
CHP 8/10, not universally liked, consensus 5/10.

“R” de Ruinart NV £25

The “heavyweight”, with rich, powerful raw citrus, grapefruit, nuts and cream, and a long, lingering finish. There is no Pinot Meunier in this blend. Just ahead of the Lanson by a nose. CHP 8.5/10, Consensus 7.5/10.

PS: The Gimonnet was subsequently re-tasted at home by CHP the following Friday evening. The wine had gained weight and texture, far beyond its showing on Wednesday. In view of its price tag, it is highly recommended.

Next month, we will be looking at Wine Styles for Christmas - 10 wines from a sparkling white to a fortified sticky, all to match your Christmas fayre. Cost of tasting £5 per head, including seasonal nosh. If you bring something along you will be reimbursed.