Tuscany is the region which has given birth to Italy’s best-known red wine, Chianti. It is here that Sangiovese, which translates as “Jupiter’s blood” predominates, sometimes in a number of different forms and guises.

To the east is Montepulciano, where Sangiovese changes its identity to Prugnolo Gentile, and the DOC Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. To the south, it’s transformed into Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s most expensive red wines Further along the coast, at Scansano, it’s also known as Maremma.

As a variety, it gives off flavours from sour-cherry to black-cherry, but has a tendency to be rather acidic and tannic. The grape has therefore been traditionally ameliorated by blending with softer varieties and ageing in oak cask.

Traditionally, Chianti was produced to a formula including Canaiolo and Colorino, with some white Malvasia, which was later replaced with the inferior, but more prolific Trebbiano. Latterly, these traditional varieties have been replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The second trend is the replacement of large Slavonian oak vats (botti) with smaller barriques of French oak. These have a much more positive effect on the Sangiovese, rounding it out and making it a little easier to drink.

Chianti was first recorded in 1398 and was defined by decree in 1716, into what is now roughly the Classico area. In 1932, a number of difference subzones were decreed, including Rufina.

The recipe for Chianti was laid down by an erstwhile Italian Prime Minister, Barone di Ricasole in 1872, allowing for the inclusion of white wine. One hundred years later, the best producers, including Antinori, rebelled against the formula, now enshrined in DOC laws, because it prevented them from making great wine.

Circa 1970, Antinori launched Tignanello, a blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon. As it could only be classified by law, as a Vino di Tavola, this wine and similar styles were branded “Super Tuscans”.

During the next two decades, the authorities bent over backwards to accommodate the rebels, relaxing the laws to accommodate “international varieties” and exclude white grapes. Wines which do have a greater percentage of non-Sangiovese grapes are now classified IGT, the Italian equivalent of “Vins de Pays”.

In tonight’s tasting, we tasted a range of Sangiovese styles and DOCs, to get a better understanding of the grape, and see where Chianti sits today in the world wine pecking order. Most of the wines were sourced from the Wine Society.

1. Malenchini Chianti 2008 (£6.50 Wine Society)
Bags of refreshing acidity, sour-cherry fruit and grippy tannins, yet there was still quite a bit of integral sweetness throughout. Very fresh and pleasing, and terrific value.
(CHP 16+, Bin Ends 3 votes)

2. Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2007 ( £11.50 Wine Society)
Immediately more mature and less vibrant, with more mulled cherry fruit and softer tannins. Easy to drink and well-balanced. (CHP 16, Bin Ends 1 vote)

3. Morelllino di Scansano Podere 414 (£11.50 Wine Society)
From a warmer coastal region, this was much darker and more concentrated. A modern barrique-aged style, this was thick, tarry and oaky, with toast and vanilla. Quite hot, spicy and alcoholic, lacking finesse. (CHP 14+, Bin Ends 1 vote)

4. Carbonaia 2006 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ( £11.99 Waitrose)
Also a modern style, but what a contrast! Delicious black cherry fruit set in a velvet texture, with notes of black chocolate on the finish. Full, yet still fresh and well-balanced. Excellent finish. (CHP 17, Bin Ends 4 votes)

5. The Society’s Exhibition Chianti Classico 2007 (Wine Society £11.95)
Vibrant, juicy and fresh. Delicious sour-cherry fruit, with added spice and a good finish. Lovely structure, and excellent typicity. (CHP 17+, Bin Ends 10 votes)

6. Villa Antinori 2006 IGT Toscana (£12.99 Waitrose)
With a high percentage of Cabernet, this was a thoroughly modern international style, with black cherry and dark chocolate flavours. Silky smooth, but big and alcoholic. Not as good as I remember from earlier vintages. (CHP 15, Bin Ends 0 votes)

7. Fonterutoli Chianti Classic 2005 (c£16 Brightwells Wine Auctions)
Juicy and bright cherry fruit, velvet texture, but deeper and more profound, producing a long finish. A wine with real charm and dimension, and perfectly proportioned. Seamless. (CHP 18+ Bin Ends 7 votes)

8. Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006 (£16 Wine Society)

A younger wine, still juicy and bright, with good tannins and more noticeable oak. I liked this, but to be hypercritical, the mid-palate was a touch hollow and it failed a tad on the finish. Maybe not yet fully integrated. (CHP 17+ Bin Ends 5 votes)

9. Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (£16.00 Wine Society)
A Riserva means it must be aged for two years following the vintage (not necessarily in oak), but generally it’s a style with more oak treatment, at least 12 months up to 2 years.

I did detect a whiff of “brett”, but altogether this was immediately a more mature and rounded wine, lacking the primary fruit, but with more subtle dried-fruit characters. Smooth and polished, with more astringency than tannin. A tad hot and spicy, it lacked the class of the Fontodi and Fonterutoli. (CHP 16+, Bin Ends 5 votes).

10. Gianni Brunelli 2003 Brunello di Montalcino ( £29.00 Wine Society)
Aged for a minimum of 5 years before released, about 3 years in barrel. This was big-boned and powerful, with firm tannins and a sweet fruited length of finish. A classy wine in the traditional Brunello style, but questions were raised as to value for money.
(CHP 17.5, Bin Ends 6 votes)

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There were a few amongst us not entirely convinced by the Italian style, but the introduction of cheese and dried sausage did allow the wines to shine through. They are a style with lots of acidity and tannin, and serving them alone would have been cruel.

Nonetheless, I though they were an excellent representation of what we can expect and, on the whole, I thought there were some really charming wines on show. The Malenchini was unbeatable in terms of value and everyone loved the Society’s Exhibition Chianti Classico. As for a “new” style, the Carbonaia showed well, and the Fontodi was also well-received.

The Brunelli Brunello was a typical big-boned style. I’m not entirely convinced, though, and, at that price, would opt for a Barolo. I did, however, thoroughly enjoy the Fonterutoli, which always seems to me to be a wine in perfect harmony.